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EA SVO Critique my engine build plan: expert opinions only 

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:18 pm 
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UPDATE:
Sourced an EF engine on the weekend and have just pulled the head off today before work. Head looks to be in really good order. No signs of weeping. Had the original ford gasket so had never been pulled before. A credit to proper servicing! Unfortunately one of the cam lobes shows signs of wear. Might be fine for a re-grind though. I'll start removing rocker gear and valves asap so i can get on with the porting.

The EF block has a clean bore with no lip. A quick hone would be fine so the new rings will bed in. Just have to decide whether to use the EF block or the matching numbers EA block.

Might have some AU pistons and 6" rods coming later in the week. That'll save some greif pulling the BA motor apart. I was also concerned about the location of the valve reliefs (if any) in the BA piston as i haven't come across any pics of the BA pistons yet. If required it would have meant more dis-assembly and fly cutting of the reliefs x 6. All these little things can add up.

Decided to do some oiling mods. I'll clean up the casting around the filter for slightly better flow. Also decided to blue-print the oil pump and have a High Energy style pan fabricated with a windage tray and baffles. I might try to come up with a crank scraper design if its workable within the space. Otherwise i'l just polish up the counterweights and get it isotropically finished so it'll fling the oil off more easily.

Another thing i came across a blurry pic of a significantly lightened crank. They have pulled the weight of the crank down by 6.5 kilos by milling the counterweights. This was in a worked crossflow that
***supposedly made 390HP on the engine dyno and 405ft@3000rpm****
I looked at the engine specs and it was mostly stuff that a OHC 4.0 has anyway such as roller cam, roller rockers, 6 inch rods, ported head etc. But that crank was interesting! I might speak to Duggan or Hastings balancing services to see what they think of it.

 

 

Attachments:
File comment: note milled counterweights reducing weight by 6.5kg
EF milled crank.jpg
EF milled crank.jpg [ 61.69 KiB | Viewed 249 times ]

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:39 pm 
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hehe - your going through the same decisions I am.

Crank scrapers and windage trays are easy (just look at AU/BA bottom ends).

Crank lightening has its advantages and disadvantages. I will be doing some machining to an EF crank within the next few weeks but am taking a very different approach to that pic you have there (how they have modified that crank looks crazy to me).

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:41 pm 
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Admittedly i have never seen this approach before. Normallu you see them knife-edged.

How are you going about it?

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:50 pm 
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Reduce the counterweight radius similar to this

Image

Removing the metal from the 'outside' of the crank is better approach IMO as it is more effective (have to remove less weight for the same effect) and you dont weaken the crank.

On the I6 you can even completely remove the counterweights:

Image

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:37 pm 
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Usually the go with lightening cranks was to drill holes into the counter weights & knife edging them. But you must run lighter rods & pistons to keep the balance nice. You loose torque though, so to get it back is high RPM.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:56 am 
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dam that things looks the treat.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:30 am 
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Maybe pulling the weight out of the flywheel instead will be easier. I'll just get the whole assembly balanced at that point.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 1:46 pm 
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AU pistons and rods have arrived. They look quite nice for OEM pistons. They have an anti friction coating on the skirts. There are no slots in the oil control ring land which makes for a fairly solid piston. The dish in the crown is minimal almost to the point of being a flat top. In a direct comparison with an EF piston it will have a higher compression ratio. Also the valve relief is much smaller and shallow compared to the EF valve relief. Not sure if this will be a point of interference, especially if i use a high lift cam? We shall see anyway when i dummy it together during blueprinting.

die grinder and porting burrs have been purchased
quotes on machine work obtained
:D

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:54 pm 
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Heres a link that might help you along. If you are going tackle the porting yourself, make sure you practice on a couple of old alloy cross flow heads.

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... 517#517517

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:37 am 
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Thanks for that, i have read your posts previously and its a very impressive description. Your MSpaint pic is spot on.

I also found an old AutoSpeed article which was extremely useful. If i was going to completely reco my head i would probably go to the step of having the valve guides lathed down. One thing this article didn't show which i was suprised is the back-cutting of valves which used to be called "tulip" valves. Its where they turn down the diameter around the stem and neck of the valve.

The link to the article is here:
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=1792


A respected engine builder from another forum i visit had this to say:

"Don't open up the ex ports, they are very good from the factory, at most clean up the casting with a cartrige roll, all the 4L ford heads need is a performance valve grind (5 angle inlet, 3 angle & radius ex), ex bowls throated out & the bowls blended into the throating work + a tidy up on the inlet bowls & a good smothing of the inlet short turns & cut back the ex short turns."

Just thought i'd also mention i'm not a n00b at this. The main thing i'm concerned about is having repeatable results from port to port. Probably the best way to achieve this is to have it CNC ported but the only place i found with a program for it is Kostecki Engine Centre in Perth.

More than anything patience and conservatism is the key to doing a job like this correctly.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 4:59 pm 
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if you are worried about keeping the numbers original, why not oil up the original motor, and stick it under a tarp somewhere ? then modify a later engine. the later ( ef/el ) motors seem much better than the early I6's. less likely to leak oil. then if you pop the modded engine, the original is in original, unmolested condition.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:23 am 
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...because i'm i'm already tripping over countless clevelands, rotaries, a BA twin cammer, about 7 c10 autos, an RX3 coupe, an RX4 coupe, and a nine inch for my mick webb 351 XE daily driver that has somehow turned into a street weapon. Not to mention all the "mates" jobs i invaribly get given to take care of.

Garage space is becoming an issue. I wouldn't consider that i'm butchering a relatively stock EA engine by changing crank/rods/pistons and giving it a slight hone. Oh yeah, the donor engine is an EF hence thats where i got the crank from. That could be used. So point taken, but the block is the last thing to worry about at the moment. Need to get the head done. I've cleaned up the AU pistons and began to polish the crowns.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:30 pm 
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update 28/03/2007

Decided on doing all work to the EF block. Less down time on the whole project. The block has been measured and came up within all tolerances. Bore has no lip or taper and hone marks are still visible. Determined that the block can be zero-decked and there will be no clearance issue. Block just needs hot-tanking to remove the crud in the water jackets an any left over swarf from die-grinding. Putting the block work off as there will only be a short turn around on that work and i'll assemble it immediately afterwards. Need to sort out the head first.

The 94ab head has been fully dis-assembled in preparation for porting, decking and flow bench base figures. Had to buy a new valve spring compressor for that job. All valves were in tolerance with no wear. Cleaned up a couple of them very easily. No carbon build up but a little varnish was stuck on them. Will get the valves and seats multi angled. I want base figures before porting because there is too much conjecture in some other threads about flow potential. Also i will have one chamber cc'd at the same time. This is inteded to be a full blueprint build and i need to know these figures to arrive at the correct static compression ratio.

As for the ports now i can see why there isn't too much to be gained from the EF head. I can really only see where the valve guide boss on the exhaust side can be trimmed and flowed a bit better. Casting marks are few and far between. Short-turn radius (STR) isn't bad at all (not what i was expecting!). Uncertain if i should even touch the STR now...

pics coming when things actually get interesting.

 

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 Post subject: Re: EA SVO Critique my engine build plan: expert opinions only
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 4:27 pm 
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Epic thread mining! I started this thread in December 2006. So here we are in 2016.

Due to a bunch of life circumstances I ditched the engine/s that I built up. I had done an EF short motor and also did an AU short motor with a BA XR6T windage tray/girdle. Had a few heads sitting there. I also had a low-kay BA motor I could have used. Some of it got sold, other stuff sadly went to scrap as I had zero storage. I did however keep the SVO and did almost nothing to it save for the occasional run around the block.

Decided I need to sort out a spare car to drive while I do the motor in my daily (Landcruiser turbo diesel 1HD-T). Decided to dust off the SVO and finally give it the love it deserves. I was planning on doing another engine build but a great deal came along that I couldn't say NO to.

Ended up getting an EL engine that was built by Casey Performance Centre. Ported, Dev5 cam, new valves, ARP bolts in re-sized rods, index ground crank, balanced etc.

Been ages since playing with E-series. I think I just have to sort out getting an XH tensioner so I can keep the EA log manifold and sort out the thermo fan conversion.

Really looking forward to getting her on the road and on club rego (Victoria).

 

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