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| turbotrana |
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This is a list of what wears heavily or what breaks in a heavily loaded(raced) N/A or turbo motor. Add to it if you know of anymore weaknesses.
Auxiliary shaft can seize : Additional oil holes can be drilled to help avoid Auxiliary shaft gear wears : additional oil squirts in the direction of the gear reduces wear. Stock EA pistons are weak : dont bother with EA pistons, they will break up with load and destroy the engine. Stock EB series 2 onwards pistons are good for up to around 400 rwhp then the ringlands start breaking but piston stays intact. Solution use ACL EA Race Series pistons which have a thicker second ringland. Stock Valve spring bounce around 16psi. Replace with valvesprings with about 110lb seat pressure. XR6 valve springs wont do the job Rods seem to be good to 550-600 rwhp Head gaskets seem to go and the heads of the head bolt seem to break off : Use AU metal head gasket and AU head bolts seem to solve most of these head gasket problems but make sure bolts a really tight head corrosion damage is repaired before head goes back on. Some EA blocks need decking due to bad factory machining. Thats all I can think of for the moment. Overall the EB onwards motors are quite strong with a few mods.
_________________ Turbo 6s rule |
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| mr_rx7_ |
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Age: 37 Posts: 347 Joined: 10th Jan 2005 Ride: 2002 Mustang Cobra Location: Broadmeadows (Melb. North) |
ouch! lots of dramas! how many of these apply to low-boost (about 9psi... ~180rwkw) EFs?
_________________ Red 2002 Mustang Cobra |
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| turbotrana |
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At 9psi you only really need to do the head gasket and head bolts. The auxilliary shaft seizure is not common but does happen.
_________________ Turbo 6s rule |
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| nannas_ed |
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out of curiosity, but whats the aux. shaft
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| EBXR8380 |
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Under distributor to drive oil pump as well..
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| Southy |
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what are EA pistons good too?
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| CHEF |
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The pistons in my ea series one took 10psi ok, then 15 for a while... rings started to get some blow by so I upped the boost to 20 then 25 to finish the job... MASSIVE blow by was the result and then a ring land went and it didnt idle too well... still had some go in her.
Head gasket never blew, though it may have been close. The motor in my ED seems ok so far, Ive given it 15psi for awhile now and still seems fine... no blow by, not using oil ( though it takes only a good thrashing around the race track, about 3 hours, to burn the oil ). Havnt done a comp test so dunno how good the compressing is now. Head gasket is fine, even with the countless 99deg over heats on the dyno, its still holding up... maybe it been on there so long its a solid part of the head lol I plan to do a rebuild soon ( virgin eng buider here  ), but first I want to see what breaks so I can build it up with a good idea of what will cope as Im keen to give it some decent boost... 25psi
I'd like to build up a strong budget motor that will cope with alot of boost, and as I dont really want to rev it past 5000rpm, I dont feel balancing is needed. |
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| downingj |
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How about driveline woes. What sort of tranny are you using? What type off diff are you using? When did / does the standard diff/tranny give up?
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| fritzz |
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t5 : 180rwkw - 200rwkw
btr 4speed: a fear bit, i seen 400rwhp with just a electronic shiftkit. but shift kit is a must! lsd 3.45 xr diff: pryo is making over 400rwkw and its still good
_________________ # 1997 EL Falcon GLI - 600+rwkw |
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My EDs killed two BTRs but yeah, they can handle high 200s with a serious rebuild
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| fritzz |
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CHEF wrote: My EDs killed two BTRs but yeah, they can handle high 200s with a serious rebuild
did they have a shift kit chef??
_________________ # 1997 EL Falcon GLI - 600+rwkw |
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First one did, second one was a "rebuilt" stocker
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| Spork |
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How did they die? Just excessive slipping? Or did something go bang.
What do they do in a re-build? What parts do they make stronger.
_________________ Manual EL Gli.
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| CHEF |
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Nah, unfortunatly no big spectacular bangs, just lots of slipping...
The first one coped well with 200wkws for maybe 4 months or so, then on the dyno with a new tune it started to slip and just rev out on a few high load pulls, then it just wouldnt hold over 4000rpm. It was ok to drive off boost, so I added a pair of oil coolers and adjusted the bands a bit, then after a few more days it wouldnt engage gear unless i reved it to 3000.... hooked up and off it took... The second auto was a reconed effort from a wreckers ( no warranty for obvious reasons ). It lasted maybe a few hard drives then just wouldnt go into gear... tow truck time again |
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