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Alternator Reco 

 

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 Post subject: Alternator Reco
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:13 am 
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Thought I'd whack this here as there isn't an electrical specific forum.I was just wondering if it's hard/possible to reco an alternator yourself? What actually gets done in a reco?

Cheers.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:42 am 
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depends whats wrong with it, but:
new bearings (be careful, its easy to crack the case)
new regulator, simple to install
the stator windings are checked for continuity, resistance and insulation..... not really within DIY scope unless you've got the right testing equipment....
the rotor is checked as above
commutator is refinished and segment insulators are re-cut

thats about as much as i can remember...... personally i reckon it's better to get it done by an auto electrician.... work is garunteed

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:44 am 
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Replacement of the bushes and springs?

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:58 am 
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brushes/springs are usually part of the regulator in later model equipment

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 9:37 pm 
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Thanks Interceptor. I am very familar with the components but I wasn't sure if you needed certain equipent or if it was a specialist type job.

My alternator doesn't seem to be charging enough, below 12v when driving and that was without the underdrive kit.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:31 pm 
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does the alt warning light come on when you turn the key on and then off when you start the engine?
does the alt warning light glow faintly at night (try hitting the brakes with the headlights on, etc, to get some decent current draw happening)

also..... how are you measuring the voltage? on the guage or with a multimeter at the battery terminals?

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 1:49 pm 
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Brand new alt, thru Repco, was $370, Ford wanted $800. Secondhand, see xr8 dismantler
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 2:48 pm 
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I've had a bit (tiny bit) of experience with alternators (mitsubishi lancer's though-my previous car). As if was not charging enough..below 12v, you'll observe via a multimeter reading, and you'll observe that warning lights goes off when you switch on all electrical equiptment in your car (radio, aircon, fans, lights,etc). If that's the case, most often than not, it would be the carbon brushes not getting enough contact due to wear. It just needs replacing.

When my EF had the same problem last year, didn't have time to pull it apart yet. Got instead a 110amp second hand alt for $80 from pick and pay less (fully tested with 3months warranty)...hmmmm i wonder if that's a good price.
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:02 pm 
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Prety good price, i bought a new one, because i do 1400km plus trips all the time, wasnt taking the chance on asecondhand one, just pedantic i guess. With a multi meter, put the pos on the main terminal at back of alt, and the other on neg batt terminal.
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:54 am 
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bowsaw wrote:
Prety good price, i bought a new one, because i do 1400km plus trips all the time, wasnt taking the chance on asecondhand one, just pedantic i guess.


Yeah, but nothing beats brand new. Just needed a quick and cheap fix hence my second hand alty. Although I'm still waiting for it to fail. :)
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Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:57 pm 
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Alot of the time when an Alternator stops working, it's just the Regulator or the Brushes.

My LandCruiser Alternator died 5 years ago and I got quoted $350 dollars change over for a new one. So I pulled the brushes out and replaced them, that Cost me $5 and it's been fine ever since.

The best way to look after an Alternator, is to not over tighten the belt.
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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:29 pm 
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an alternator that's not charging can be as simple as replacing the brushes, but most of the time, if they've been on the car and done alot of km, yuo also do the bearings.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 2:35 am 
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Brushes is all I wanted to hear and is what is getting done. Cheers guys.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:16 am 
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as i said in my first reply...... it all depends on whats wrong....

 

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