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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:43 pm 
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joshie007 wrote:
cjh wrote:
Thanks for the replies fellas.
I'm doing it the slow way ( the flange plate ) doing it in the lathe


Jesus Christ!!! dont you have access to a mill mate, Be a lot quicker. Thats going to put a radius on the profile might look a bit messy to, I take it you wont be machining right down to the profile you have marked so you can finnish it up with a flapper disk on a grinder (last resort when you dont have all the machines available).

Cheers

Josh


Nah, don't have a mill yet, need about 5 to 6G for the one I want, and don't have that money laying around, unfortunately.....LOL.
I'm taking 0.020" cuts at a time at 150rpm, using M42 tool steel.
I'm doing this at home, go back to work on Monday...sob, sob.....LOL.

 

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Last edited by cjh on Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:56 pm 
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cjh wrote:
joshie007 wrote:
cjh wrote:
Thanks for the replies fellas.
I'm doing it the slow way ( the flange plate ) doing it in the lathe


Jesus Christ!!! dont you have access to a mill mate, Be a lot quicker. Thats going to put a radius on the profile might look a bit messy to, I take it you wont be machining right down to the profile you have marked so you can finnish it up with a flapper disk on a grinder (last resort when you dont have all the machines available).

Cheers

Josh


Nah, don't have a mill yet, need about 5 to 6G for the one I want, and don't have hat money laying around, unfortunately.....LOL.
I'm taking 0.020" cuts at a time at 150rpm, using M42 tool steel.
I'm doing this at home, go back to work on Monday...sob, sob.....LOL.


Yeah cutting stainless on the lathe with high speed steel is a b**ch carbide inserts are mutch better, but as you may be aware of there not cheap.

i have been in business for 8 months now doing machinery maintenance and working out of my trailer and i need to get myself a lathe and a mill and everything else that goes along with it so i can get more work. but anyway this is your thread not mine ill shut up now lol.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:13 am 
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coming along nicely.


did i spot the shocky heat sinks in there? you had a thread about those ages ago. Anyway that when the car is going to could do some temp testing?

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:16 am 
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tickford_6 wrote:
coming along nicely.


did i spot the shocky heat sinks in there? you had a thread about those ages ago. Anyway that when the car is going to could do some temp testing?


Yeah, just swapping over all the EA stuff, suspension, brakes and all.
I'll need a temp gun to get temps off the shockies,.....LOL, I don't have one.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:20 am 
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joshie007 wrote:

Yeah cutting stainless on the lathe with high speed steel is a b**ch carbide inserts are mutch better, but as you may be aware of there not cheap.

i have been in business for 8 months now doing machinery maintenance and working out of my trailer and i need to get myself a lathe and a mill and everything else that goes along with it so i can get more work. but anyway this is your thread not mine ill shut up now lol.


As you would know, the harder the material, the slower you go. I've done heaps of stuff with stainless. Usually use 316 or 304.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:40 am 
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cjh wrote:

As you would know, the harder the material, the slower you go. I've done heaps of stuff with stainless. Usually use 316 or 304.


Stainless steel isnt a hard material its quite soft actually, unless you know what you are doing you can harden stainless steel while machining
it. Its what we fitters and turners like to call work hardening. Plenty of coolant pouring on the job while taking cuts will stop this. once you work harden a job your f**k, get a new piece of stainless.

I do work in the food industry so everything i do is in stainless steel.
316 being food grade stainless and 304 being marine grade stainless.
Have you ever machined hardend stainless steel casting! that is the hardest steel i have ever machined.

you are right slowing it down does help but i would slow it down having it
sticking out of the chuck like that anyway. Sometimes taking shallower cuts and playing with the feed rates can give you a better finnish.

There are also carbide inserts designd for stainless steel making it possible to machine the stainless as if your cutting 4140 (high tensile steel) i find 4140 eszyer to machine than mild steel, you get a better finnish on the 4140 and you can take 10mm deep cuts with the right carbide insert thats 20mm off diameter, and the perfect blue chips flying off nothing like it lol.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:10 am 
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joshie007 wrote:
cjh wrote:

As you would know, the harder the material, the slower you go. I've done heaps of stuff with stainless. Usually use 316 or 304.


Stainless steel isnt a hard material its quite soft actually, unless you know what you are doing you can harden stainless steel while machining
it. Its what we fitters and turners like to call work hardening. Plenty of coolant pouring on the job while taking cuts will stop this. once you work harden a job your f**k, get a new piece of stainless.

I do work in the food industry so everything i do is in stainless steel.
316 being food grade stainless and 304 being marine grade stainless.
Have you ever machined hardend stainless steel casting! that is the hardest steel i have ever machined.

you are right slowing it down does help but i would slow it down having it
sticking out of the chuck like that anyway. Sometimes taking shallower cuts and playing with the feed rates can give you a better finnish.

There are also carbide inserts designd for stainless steel making it possible to machine the stainless as if your cutting 4140 (high tensile steel) i find 4140 eszyer to machine than mild steel, you get a better finnish on the 4140 and you can take 10mm deep cuts with the right carbide insert thats 20mm off diameter, and the perfect blue chips flying off nothing like it lol.


I don't have any carbide tips, ceramic tips, or similar, just M2 and M42 HSS. So I have to sharpen them myself. I do it in such a way that I don't get chips, I get long continuous spirals, except for Brass (hahaha).

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:22 am 
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cjh wrote:
joshie007 wrote:
cjh wrote:

As you would know, the harder the material, the slower you go. I've done heaps of stuff with stainless. Usually use 316 or 304.


Stainless steel isnt a hard material its quite soft actually, unless you know what you are doing you can harden stainless steel while machining
it. Its what we fitters and turners like to call work hardening. Plenty of coolant pouring on the job while taking cuts will stop this. once you work harden a job your f**k, get a new piece of stainless.

I do work in the food industry so everything i do is in stainless steel.
316 being food grade stainless and 304 being marine grade stainless.
Have you ever machined hardend stainless steel casting! that is the hardest steel i have ever machined.

you are right slowing it down does help but i would slow it down having it
sticking out of the chuck like that anyway. Sometimes taking shallower cuts and playing with the feed rates can give you a better finnish.

There are also carbide inserts designd for stainless steel making it possible to machine the stainless as if your cutting 4140 (high tensile steel) i find 4140 eszyer to machine than mild steel, you get a better finnish on the 4140 and you can take 10mm deep cuts with the right carbide insert thats 20mm off diameter, and the perfect blue chips flying off nothing like it lol.


I don't have any carbide tips, ceramic tips, or similar, just M2 and M42 HSS. So I have to sharpen them myself. I do it in such a way that I don't get chips, I get long continuous spirals, except for Brass (hahaha).


Yeah having chips comming off the job is just safer than having the long spirals, the spirals can get hooked up and pull you in to the lathe especialy if you are wearing long sleaves. But having said that you are doing a few small jobs to mod your car ect, i just get a bit carried away when i get into a conversation that involves anything about machining lol.

Cheers

Josh

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:31 am 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

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Spent all day on the ED again, all the front suspension is in, the brakes done too. Made some front sway bar side travel limiters, coz the sway bar had a tendency to creep to the left. Now this is fixed ( touches a piece of wood).
I replaced the ED std steering wheel ( rubber has let go, & starting to crack) with an almost mint condition EA wheel. I prefer them anyway.
Fitted a new lid for the centre console. When I ordered it the other day, I was told it was the last one, and its the right colour, too.

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:35 pm 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

Location: Rockhampton
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Fitted the rear suspension, rear sway bar, the little dump
pipe, and fitted the subwoofer too. The parcel shelf is so
different in shape to the ol EA.
The rear sway bar is a 27mm unit, original is 22mm.
Replaced the ED intake air tube with an EA one,
you can see the size difference.

I painted the dumper tip black so it won't stand out.
I changed the auto fluid today too, it was black as.
I will put my T5 manual in it later when I'm ready.
I've gotten a rear external louver for it, so when I fit
some new speakers, they won't be stuffed in 6 mths.
Ask anybody that lives here and further north what
the sun does to things, automotive or not.

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Last edited by cjh on Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:21 pm 
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Gidday.

Looks like you have some skills there my friend.

Any chance of an overall shot of the car?

BenJ

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:31 pm 
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i reckon some sound footage of the dump pipe is in order :D

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:06 am 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

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Location: Rockhampton
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BenJ wrote:
Gidday.

Looks like you have some skills there my friend.

Any chance of an overall shot of the car?

BenJ


Still up on blocks and not in a good spot for a big picture ( fit the car in ), but maybe tomorrow I'll have it down on all fours.
Having it on blocks has made it easier on my back, especially doing wiring for the amp to run the sub, fixing the seat height adjuster, etc.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:17 am 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

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Location: Rockhampton
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alfy wrote:
i reckon some sound footage of the dump pipe is in order :D


I would if I knew how to put it on here...LOL.....I not a computer wizz.
It sounds throaty after it has warmed up, which takes a while,
as I have no t'stat or coolant in it yet,....waiting to do a few more hot/cold
cycles, and flushes so the headgasket gets a good chance to stick,
before putting in the coolant.
The headgasket on the engine was only done about
2-3 yrs ago.
These are the pics of the head thats on it now off the ol EA.

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Last edited by cjh on Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:20 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 49

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Joined: 18th Dec 2006

Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

Location: Rockhampton
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I drove it for the first time today, straight to work for arvo shift. It needs a wheel alignment, and I can't see the needles on the dash??? :( . I'll have to see what's going on there.
I have yet to change over the tyres onto the other mags. So at the momment I have my Snowflakes on.
When I changed the head over, I used a higher grade bolt for the cam. Went from an 8.8 to a 10.9.
I used an EA steering wheel, coz I prefer them.

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