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Re: How to make a 351 Range Ford 

 

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:00 am 
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I have sent you a PM regarding the LT230 transfer case flange.

I would appreciate some help with the dimensions, especially for the locating pins.
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:17 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
Thanks for that twinturbo4v, maybe you should talk about how it's built and the cost to remain relevent to this thread? Cheers.
Looks like Level10 built it Joe.

it cost me $4000 for that setup.
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:10 pm 
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TwinTurbo4vGT wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
Thanks for that twinturbo4v, maybe you should talk about how it's built and the cost to remain relevent to this thread? Cheers.
Looks like Level10 built it Joe.

it cost me $4000 for that setup.


And how is it built?
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:20 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
TwinTurbo4vGT wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
Thanks for that twinturbo4v, maybe you should talk about how it's built and the cost to remain relevent to this thread? Cheers.
Looks like Level10 built it Joe.

it cost me $4000 for that setup.


And how is it built?


It's built extremely well. The coolest feature is that overdrive is the strongest gear in the transmission :). Pat over at level 10 designed it to use reverse clutches which are almost unbreakable. The lockup shaft was deleted and the transbreak solenoid is built internally and works only in first gear :) and shuts off in all others to prevent the trans from grenading. The pump is billet aluminum and the main shaft is made from aircraft billet steel rated for over 3000hp. All the clutches are his own design, and the valve body is custom made from scratch from his in house machinist. The converter is a custom made billet converter with the lockup removed. It really is a work of art :)
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:51 pm 
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TwinTurbo4vGT wrote:
It's built extremely well. The coolest feature is that overdrive is the strongest gear in the transmission :). Pat over at level 10 designed it to use reverse clutches which are almost unbreakable. The lockup shaft was deleted and the transbreak solenoid is built internally and works only in first gear :) and shuts off in all others to prevent the trans from grenading. The pump is billet aluminum and the main shaft is made from aircraft billet steel rated for over 3000hp. All the clutches are his own design, and the valve body is custom made from scratch from his in house machinist. The converter is a custom made billet converter with the lockup removed. It really is a work of art :)


Thanks man,
Are you tuning the original EEC for control or are you using a standalone like the optishift?
What program changes are you using to turn off lockup control etc?
Btw I just had a look for testimonials about level10 and I haven't found many good ones...hope it's just internet bull for your sake?
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:10 am 
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TwinTurbo4vGT wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
TwinTurbo4vGT wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
Thanks for that twinturbo4v, maybe you should talk about how it's built and the cost to remain relevent to this thread? Cheers.
Looks like Level10 built it Joe.

it cost me $4000 for that setup.


And how is it built?


It's built extremely well. The coolest feature is that overdrive is the strongest gear in the transmission :). Pat over at level 10 designed it to use reverse clutches which are almost unbreakable. The lockup shaft was deleted and the transbreak solenoid is built internally and works only in first gear :) and shuts off in all others to prevent the trans from grenading. The pump is billet aluminum and the main shaft is made from aircraft billet steel rated for over 3000hp. All the clutches are his own design, and the valve body is custom made from scratch from his in house machinist. The converter is a custom made billet converter with the lockup removed. It really is a work of art :)

Is this a AOD not a AODE or 4R70W, as you mentioned that the lockup shaft was deleted, I thought it was only AOD which had a two piece shaft which solid locks up in the torque converter and does not use a clutch in the converter. I have seen a AOD in the flesh apart and how it is direct drive in third and fourth through the two piece shaft, but I am yet to see a AODE etc apart.

 

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:56 am 
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:01 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:


Good link mate, it does not clearly state what I was asking, the AOD is unconventional as it uses a direct lockup shaft from inside torque converter to 3/4 gear (for those that has seen it, it does not surprise you how weak it is), I was lead to believe the AOD/4R70W uses a more conventional shaft design with lockup converter, not a shaft splined into the converter, which is why I asked about the deleted lockup shaft.

As most of you know AOD does not have a clutch lockup converter, it is just a shaft splined into the converter, when in third or fourth is engaged it is locked up solid, the only way around this is to replace the converter and input shaft, but there is no lockup at all then. I know very little about the 4R70W, other than it is electronic controlled does not have this tiny input shaft for lockup, it has a clutch lockup and the lockup can lock or unlock in third or fourth gear, which is sweet if you have a controller like Baumann to control it, I wish I could control my toasters lockup, it would be nicer than the big jump from 4th to 3rd.

 

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97 S2 Mitsubishi Delica LWB (off the road getting v8 transplant)

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:02 pm 
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That's right macca, The AOD has the lockup shaft and the AODE does not but the exact details I'm still trying to find. I believe there is still a slightly weaker point at the input but, still nowhere near as weak as the AOD lockup shaft.
In fact the AOD has a 60% lock in 3rd and full lock in 4th. This is because there is a dampener assembly that results in the 60% lock for 3rd. I don't know why anyone would use an AOD these days anyway....They're a PITA!
btw you can invoke lockup in every gear with an AODE. In fact I know a guy with a Turbo '94 Lightning(sure it's an E40D but the principle is the same) who does just that. As he says it's a bit like having 8 gears. It does 9's.
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:05 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
I don't know why anyone would use an AOD these days anyway....They're a PITA!


whys this?

 

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:22 pm 
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EFFalcon wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
I don't know why anyone would use an AOD these days anyway....They're a PITA!


whys this?


AOD's need a Throttle Valve cable which is critical to the life of the trans and the only way the trans can sense load. Therefore you can almost never get them to shift when you want and if the cable goes out of adjustment it can wreck your trans.
They have a 1,3,D shift pattern so to get them to hold 2nd you shift 1-3 then pull back to 1 so it will hold 2nd then shift it to 3 again. This would be ok except it cycles the OD band and burns it out(I know this first hand from my 351w/AOD XR).
The 4R70W is much stronger and electronic control means you can get it to shift when you want it to.
You can also program the quality of the shift and just about anything else it does. Because there are an abundance of aftermarket controllers available you can even run them on a carbed engine quite easily.
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:07 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
AOD's need a Throttle Valve cable which is critical to the life of the trans and the only way the trans can sense load. Therefore you can almost never get them to shift when you want and if the cable goes out of adjustment it can wreck your trans.


Just like the old BW three speed Fords and Chrysler use, adjust it wrong and you can destroy it in no time.

 

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:08 am 
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Ok here's the adapter shaft welded together. As I said before it's made from the original adapter shaft precision ground and press fit into a machined down 31 spline yoke from a BA TR6060.
We're just trying to find out if the output shaft of the 4R70 is able to be drilled and tapped for the 3/8" bolt that holds the adapter shaft on. It looks like the 4WD output shafts are hardened so it might be difficult.
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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Managed to tidy up the shed enough the other day to get the rangie in...no more sunburn:)
Ash helped me yesterday with the trans mount relocation. Cheers!
Here's the transfer mounting holes redrilled 45mm back.
Right hand side, had to cut off a piece of the air suspension air tank bracket to drill the bottom hole...

Image

LH side...

Image

Here's the result for the engine placement...

Image

LH side clearance...

Image

RH side clearance...

Image

I may not be able to use EF-L mounts afterall. Diff clearance may be an issue. May be better if I used a flat plate on the bottom instead of the stock setup. This may provide the needed clearance...

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 Post subject: Re: How to make a 351 Ford Rover
Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 6:49 pm 
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Looking good there.
I actually found it quite enjoyable the challenge of getting the engine palcement etc right when doing mine.
Mine was a piece of piss bolt up job , yours is real fabrication.
I take my hat off to you.

 

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