yeah i wouldn't mind some pictures on how the brake and clutch cancel works, connected. if its no trouble.

cruise wise.. might be best to go eb onwards as they are more common.
but iirc the switches are the same

diff ratio's.. nope didnt change them as they were both 3.27
i have no interest going 3.45's as with the ratio's the ea t5 has, its well matched in my opinion.
and i still get decent economy, which is a plus considering i do alot of highway k's at times.

also drove a mates manual ed with 3.45's and it wasn't inspiring enough to seek one out then, when my original diff in the eb ghia died.

this being said i have done about 450k's so far on this tank of lpg. mixed cycle
so that entails - city suburban, freeway, country freeway, and a little spirited driving to see it the lsd still locks like i remember it does

no idea how low the lpg tank is, as i have no guage wired in atm lol . gotta rectify that when i find the loom i made to utilise the dash guage.
that being said untuned at the moment, i'm not expecting miracles.
tune will be done when funds are available. its set slightly rich at the moment to compensate

on a side note.. finally took the mudflaps off gotta watch the sills now on dirt roads
i scrape to the point on my driveway where i had done damage to the front guard of the mudflap trying to flex.
and i go down it slowly and angled..

ahh ya there would not have been much of a difference between the two diffs not even a noticeable difference

what would you pick if you could chose any ratio ?

pretty much..

i'd actually stay the same ratio. as like i've said in the past i do a bit of highway driving.
with the motor spinnng over slower than say 3.45's or 3.9's it is decent on fuel.
also with the sports exhaust fitted it doesnt drone badly.

i did have a el t5 with the 2.92 for a while and it didnt feel as well matched.
the el box was only a short lived experience as i grenaded the box behind the au motor, (na) au s3 egas motor.

not fun when you have chunks of layshaft in the bottom from 2nd and 3rd.
oh was fun whilst it lasted showing off what a s**t eb can do

oh will it just end???

now its looking like the lpg tank needs to be changed out.
the afl (auto fill limiter) is not working, been able to over fill the tank 4 times in a row at different servo's bowsers etc

i'm speaking in regards a 83litre water capacity tank. can only fill to 80% of it for safety reasons and expansion. been able to put anywhere between 67 to 77 litres in it, from dead empty.
its now empty again.. and i'll be trying not to use the lpg till i get it rectified or max fill 30 ish litres from empty if i must

the fuel guage has stopped working before i swapped the wiring over anyways, hence why i wasnt fussed about the lack of a guage at the moment..

photo's of the current sprint tank will be posted later.

anyone got any suggestions of lpg mechanics in eastern melbourne i could have a chat to to suss out the problem?
as if i need to spend money retesting the tank to fix it.. i have a indate tank that everything works at the olds thats actually full that i can swap and get the lines reconnected
current tank has 4 1\2 years left on it btw.

some pictures of the tank..

I have heard stories regarding people modifying the auto fill limiter to cram anther 5-10L in when filling up , crazy i know but i guess if you do not have a completely full tank on a 30C+ day you shall be fine

same here but that isnt something i'd do..
as the afl exists for a reason

it will be rectified asap as last thing i need is for it to explode and either kill me or my freinds\family
as said before the guage on the tank is not working too, so i have no idea how full i can go etc

easier to just drive on petrol if need be if i cant be bothered walking to the shops

does it work at all all the gauge ? i had a similar issue only read when it was full it got "better" after a few full fills probably more of a placebo thing though

Just re read your post and read how you have a feeling and know the AFL isn't working , alot of average joe people would not have noticed and kept driving etc till it blew but i know this sounds like a long shot ,

I had something similar happen where like you i believe,I managed to it was 80L into a tickford gas factory gas tank maybe more then 1 servo's are over counting the litres of gas could be possible ?

used to.. as it was rather intermittent with the old wiring kit too. hence why i wasnt too fussed wiring it back in for now.
as i knew something was up. but wasnt aware it was so drastic

each fill has been different servo's,
2 7-11's,
1 shell, 2 caltex's.

doesnt matter where i go as i buy it when i need it.. and the servo's are at times a fair distance from the last one i went to

only place i refuse to go is bp.. vile crap there

well got some answers on how much and how hard it will be to rectify the problem with the tank..
been quoted about $260 - $300 in parts alone.
tank needs to be removed and it needs to be retested after repairs. bugger

so my other tank from my old ghia will be retested. $100 - $150 to get tested, and a 6 pack to get the lines hooked up
as i'll swap the tanks over myself..

and i get to use the setup i'd made to use the dash guage on lpg. couldnt get the correct ohm's range sender for the sprint tank anyways


other than that.
my sisters nf is keeping me busy. turns out that, it has lunched the auto
was serviced 20 thou ago and its slipping.
oil is burnt and the colour of coca cola.. lucky i have that au auto still then i suppose.

just the fun of helping to swap box's and flushing out the trans cooler lines etc.
and getting it somewhere it can be worked on.
as you can imagine it isnt being driven far if it can be helped. or it will be made to drag its sorry a*** to mum and dads, where the box swap can also be done (likely)

an update if anyone cares..

lpg tank has been swapped for a in-date unit now.
was going to get my apa tank from the ghia tested, but a mate was getting rid of his apa tank from a wreck.

all it cost was a pack of smokes and was just over half full ,so a decent score there
so soon i'll have the wire and relays to make a start on getting the fuel guage to work with lpg again.

other than that.. cruise control is now fitted
turns out all my wiring for it in the dash column etc was all there.

plug the modules in and run the vac lines for it.
and swap the steering wheels over. and it all works as it should.
its now weird getting used to cruise control in a manual e series as its been a fair while that i've had a manual car with cruise control.

i only have the brake cancel hooked up at the moment. as i couldnt find my spare bits to splice into the brake cancel for the clutch.
so to come off cruise. i have to tap the brakes or press the coast button first.

also would anyone know how to remove the glue from the drivers door wind deflector?

i'm going to be removing mine as its sun damaged and goes a opaque colour in twilight or in the rain. which is downright annoying and unsafe really.

well time for some pictures..

spot the difference in tanks..

old setup on tank that wasnt working..

now what i'm using..
yet to wire in a guage though lol


cruise wise.. works a treat. i'll put up pics if wanted..

but i finally pulled apart the omvl that was failing.
needless to say the lpg places that told me the wax buildup stain was nothing. even being told i could smell lpg at times.
so glad i pulled it off now though, but i know where not to go when i get the lpg tune seen to.

most of the screws werent overly tight, and i figured out why i could smell lpg
this side was clean.. but being the vac part of the 2nd half i wasnt expecting lots.


now this made me s**t myself..
pretty obvious that the diaphram had failed and was leaking..
maybe its a good thing i dont smoke?




explains to a point why my economy was sucking a little when i ran it on lpg?

*lifts bonnet and starts inspecting motor, lights cigarette in frustration*
BOOM!