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| jumpingjak |
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ok maybe i just had 1of them momment were it clicks, hahaha... now im thinking b7vss is spoze to recieve the speedo cogs output signal, and i been trying to run it the other way. I been trying to run b7vss straight to the speedo dial, which of course is not going to do anything. maybe if i go straight from the speedo cog output to b7vss and also to the speedo dail. you guys think that sound close to being right, or way off?
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| Wacko.Jacko |
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loving the barra conversions
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| Mad2 |
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jumpingjak wrote: ok maybe i just had 1of them momment were it clicks, hahaha... now im thinking b7vss is spoze to recieve the speedo cogs output signal, and i been trying to run it the other way. I been trying to run b7vss straight to the speedo dial, which of course is not going to do anything. maybe if i go straight from the speedo cog output to b7vss and also to the speedo dail. you guys think that sound close to being right, or way off? sounds goood to me  ....but your the err teacher   Wacko.Jacko wrote: loving the barra conversions my barra na1 project still debating on selling the non turbo engine and buying the turbo engine because i haven't got anything but the engine and loom to the firewall any ideas? (also looking for barra to t5 bell and all the clutch gear) can use the AU bellhousing if your not using the hydraulic clutch setup |
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| jumpingjak |
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ohhh ye get that conversion going on waki.jacko
 If i had the exrta money id go turbo. Depending on how on point you want to be with being as close to lagit as possible, I was reading on the rta site that if you put a engine in the car that exceeds 20% more power than the original engine you need a engerners certificate or if you change any part of the chase. Thats a nsw rta. might need better brakes than what the older falcons have to stop a turbo I would have used a solid cross bar on the k.frame aswell as tripple layered my weld, eg weld the bar on clean it up weld over that, clean it up then weld again, only coz im no pro welder and thats if i was going turbo. pro welders would get it done 1st go.
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| jumpingjak |
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I did sum wire testing on my speedo wires and to cut a long story short, because the bf uses abs for speedo i had to add a wire and pin into b7, which works fine, I also tracked the speedo cogs output signal wire to the plug that hangs out next2 the pcm and that wire stops there at that plug, the other wires are giving the speedo cog power which is good. I just need to hook up the speedo output wire upto b7 and the speedo dials wire. Il put a picture up tomorrow.. Be4 i did all that tho i went to start the car and the throttle body was making sum weired noises and the throttle peddle want open the butterfly so i think over night my peddle killed over have to look at it tomorrow..
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| jumpingjak |
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well you have to be shhhiiiittting me... When I turn the red on the throttle body dose not do its little activating noise, just a weired constant noise from the motor and the throttle dose not work. I tested between the throttle plug and the pcm plug, the 8wires and for sum reason i was getting reading of a short between 3wire, so i pulled the loom out and layed it on the table and tested the 8wires again. Every thing was reading fine, no shorts
 I even checked over all my joins why i had the loom out and they were all good. I put the loom back on the car hooked everything up and the throttle body motor still making this weired noise and no throttle response car want even kick over. If I unplug the power plug on the throttle body motor the car will start then but stall straight away, sooo, im thinking my throttle peddle or throttle body has died on me 
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| Mad2 |
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| jumpingjak |
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haha hard lesson learnt. $150 lesson. I realy thort it was the throttle body craped it self so i got a 2nd hand one thru it in and same thing
 . so i figured it had to be in my wiring sum were. Pulled my loom back out onto the table and went over every pin with the multimeter looking for brakes in the wires or eny kind of resistance, I also wiggled and bent every inch of the loom why i was tesing each wire and when i got up near the pcm b plug and the bodly loom plug i was getting open circuit reading and high resistance readings on b18 and b20 which ran to the throttle plug. I un wrap the tape and tubing from that area and look for damaged wires, as none of my connetions i made in this spot.. Every thing looks ok and im not getting any open circuit reading from them 2pins eny more, Even if i wiggle and bend the loom it still reads ok. All i can come up with is i wraped it to tight in this area. Well my plan is to hook it back upto the car but only run power to the pcm and throttle body like i did when the engine was on the ground and see what happens.
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| jumpingjak |
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well il be stuffed... nothing so far has fixed my problem. My loom seems to be ok, same as my throttl peddle. I hooked my loom back up the same way as i did when the engine was out the car, no alternator, power steering just pcm power and ingition sensor wire straight to the batt powerd it up and still makes a weired noise at the throttle body and the butterfly dose not open when i work the peddle.Iknow the peddle controls the current flow to the butterfly motor thru the pcm. Im getting voltage coming thru the pcm to the throttle body motor, its just not changing the voltage as i work the peddle. Im starting to wonder if the pcm is damaged inside that controls the throttle and buttlerfly. Il try swaping the peddle 1st and see how i go, if that dose not work the pcm is the last thing i can think of.
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| jumpingjak |
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getting my other peddle today, I dont think that will fix it but its worth the try be4 i move onto the pcm. Do you guys know if the $800 diagnostic scan tool will pick up internal problems with the pcm, like a faulty throttle circuit. or eny ideas of how i could get the pcm checked over for internal problems?
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| Mad2 |
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only thing i can think of .. is Forscan & the ELM327 connector hooked up to the OBD2 connector. but you need a ph/laptop to be able to use it and that "may" show some DTC's
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| rod hansen |
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Out of curiosity I done some tests on the throttle body of my bf, with the key on engine off 3.6 volts at throttle motor, as soon as throttle position starts to change, frequency and duty cycle takes over and at 18% throttle opening on the scan tool back too battery voltage to wide open throttle. Engine running frequency and duty cycle. The throttle position switch on the throttle body is a dual apposing slope switch, meaning one switch will go from 1 to 4 volts and the other 4 volts to 1. b 18 is a wiper and b 20 is 5 volt reference. When you turn the key on you hear the throttle open, and if you touch the throttle you hear the hum from the throttle motor.
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| jumpingjak |
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ahh very nice info man, Thank you for that
.. Im like 95% sure my pcm has craped it self in the part that controls the throttle.. Im getting 6v at the motor with key on engine off and it dose not change at all.. Just to make sure i did change my throttle body and the peddle and no fix, Kinda new that tho, so unlucky ay. I also notices my diagnostic tool works on the pcm but if i plug the butterfly power plug in and it starts making a clack,clack, clack kind of sound the diagnostic tool will not read and sez link error try again. I unplug the power and it reads the pcm but recons there are no errors. What do you guys recon should i cut my looses on this pcm and go bye another1 and get it reprogramed. Or take this 1in to get looked at. 120$ to have it looked at, or about $60 for a 2nd hand pcm and another $150 to have it reprogrammed. haha im almost at the point were i should have just bought my own tool to reprogram
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| rod hansen |
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I done some more tests with the oscilloscope today, because I could not work out after 18% of throttle opening with frequency and duty cycle it went to battery voltage on pin A27 red and black to wide open throttle, turns out after 18% the frequency and duty cycle switches to the other wire pin A28 red wire to wide open throttle. Before you buy another pcm just double check your wiring, you may have something going where it shouldn't. My scan tool has all the ford software, if you get stuck with some data pids I might be able to help you.
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| jumpingjak |
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Ahhh i wish i still had my oscilliscope, I had1 a few years ago it kinda fell off the table tho and as you could amagine it did not like that to well. I think i need a much better diganostic tool, i got a $200 bosch one from supercheap auto, I was aslo thinking with this mod you only need to modify the pcm b plug loom. The engine loom is left alone, I started the engine 6or7 times out the car and it worked fine, I also started it in the car afew time and it was ok. There looks to be a switch type set up between A27 and A28 and because of that i ws woundering if i should get and open circuit reading or a ressistance reading between them 2pins
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