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| caseyaberhart |
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I will replace the waterpump sometime in the future, probably at the first sign of leakage. I just couldnt justify the $60 retail vs the $6 gasket to re use the near new one I have here (of the 5 I have). At the moment my main concern is getting this engine set up and installed in the car within my limited budget.
I understand prevention is better than any cure, but I am trying my hardest not to cut any corners here. I have the radiator out of the car now and the aircon unbolted and sitting aside. Everything is unplugged on the car and just waiting to get it off the trailer, in the drivewat then get the jacks out and pull the starter, undo the torque converter and bellhousing. Then support the box with a jack on the front. Then when I borrow or hire an engine crane I will undo the exhaust, the mounts then pull the engine out, clean the bay while it is empty and.then put the new engine in. bolt it up plug it in bolt the converter and bellhousing and hopefully start the thing. Probably wont be until the new year now though. I will post up some pics tonight of my progress. Please pipe up if anyone has any more advice, tips or I have overlooked or missed anything. Cheers.
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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So.......
It is starting to look like an engine now. I have put acessories on now.          so there ya go, hopefully it will be in just after the new year. cheers to everyone
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Just a tip for when you drop the motor back in. Take the fuel rail off and re instal it once the motor is back in. I never used to do this and i could get away with it but there was one time where i accidentally crushed the fuel regulator when putting motor back in and i started it up and ran like a dog cause it wasnt getting sufficient fuel pressure. Easy fix but if you have a good working reg its a good idea to leave it off as it can get crushed against the firewall when installing motor as it tends to jam against there when trying to get engine mounts over the k frame... well sometimes depends what angle you have the motor on. But now i do it every time as i dont wanna risk it.
fuel rail is easy to do when its in the car, its 4 10mm bolts and the throttle body has to come off another 4 allen key type bolts. Remember to use rubber grease or vaso on the injector o rings when re installing so that you dont damage them. Just my 2c. Cheers
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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Kay, cheers for that tip. I will definitely keep that in mind.
I have knocked off for now so have a merry christmas and may all your blue ovals be safe this holiday season and the new year
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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Update:
Righto, so I pulled the radiator, looks near new was replaced in 2010. undid all the hoses, earth lead, fuel lines, vac lines and moved the a/c and everything out of the way ready for the swap. Cleaned up the earth connector on the new engine, replaced that horrible piece of hose on the heater bypass....(what a stupid engineering decision. who's fk idea was that anyway? Guess it's the same principle as the dipstick-less gearbox) going to do the swap next weekend as I buggered my shoulder playing with the kids on xmas day. It may sound a little naive but what is the best way to line up the torque converter bolts? do you turn the engine by hand or rock the car? And...... Is there a certain way to do it? I think what I am asking is can someone outline the procedure for bolting up the engine to the auto gearbox please? Much appreciated guys, hope you all had a great christmas Btw the wreckers want an extra $50 if I dont return the old engine, is it worth keeping it and stripping it for parts or rebuilding or take the block to the scrappies when I have removed the head etc? Thanks
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| phongus |
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Personally, I'd keep the engine and pull it apart. For me knowledge is more important that $50, but obviously that is up to you.
If money is of more concern, I'd still suggest keeping the engine and start pulling the more valuable stuff off it (head, rocker cover, BBM, TB etc) and sell them individually...you will most likely make more than $50 out of the parts and learn a lot in the process. Just a thought.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| SWC |
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Dthe welch pug in the rear of the head and replace the rear main seal on the engine while the engine is out. Also do the front oil seal on the auto as well. Will save you heartache later. Cheap insurance.
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| caseyaberhart |
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phongus wrote: Personally, I'd keep the engine and pull it apart. For me knowledge is more important that $50, but obviously that is up to you. If money is of more concern, I'd still suggest keeping the engine and start pulling the more valuable stuff off it (head, rocker cover, BBM, TB etc) and sell them individually...you will most likely make more than $50 out of the parts and learn a lot in the process. Just a thought. I was going to keep it and tear it down for the learning experience, then *maybe* rebuild it though I may just keep the valuables and take the rest to the scrappies. Also the front gearbox seal has been done a few weeks ago when the gearbox was replaced. How do you do the rear engine seal? Don't you need a tool to remove and install it? I assume the flywheel comes off then you can access it. But what is the procedure? Cheers
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Use a flat blade screw driver paying special attention to the surface of the crankshaft and block that you don't scratch it. Basically just pry around the edges. It may be a little sticky so it needs persuasion sometimes. Someone on here was saying to screw self tappers into the old seal then Use pliers to pull out. This works good in theory. I tried and the seals are hard as s**t and couldn't screw anything into them. Flat blade screwdriver works well though.
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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Righto, will do that. Getting the car off the trailer, into a shed and onto ramps this afternoon. Undoing the box and starter ready for next weekend. The top bolts on the box are going to be fun. to undo the converter I take off the inspection plate, undo bolt, turn engine by hand to get to the next bolt, rinse and repeat. Correct? I assume that you undo the converter then the box? Sorry for the stupid questions but I dont want to fk anything up and this is a learning curve for me aswell. Also should I remove the tailshaft while this is happening?
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| evxr6 |
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caseyaberhart wrote: ...The top bolts on the box are going to be fun. That's why it's easier to do it outside the car. caseyaberhart wrote: ...to undo the converter I take off the inspection plate, undo bolt, turn engine by hand to get to the next bolt, rinse and repeat. Correct? I assume that you undo the converter then the box? Sorry for the stupid questions but I dont want to fk anything up and this is a learning curve for me aswell. Also should I remove the tailshaft while this is happening? Exactly right, on the torque converter. If you are not taking the auto out, I don't see why you should have to take the driveshaft out. That is unless the box is going to go backwards in the process.
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| xr6_corbin |
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It's easier to pull box and motor out in one go. Even if its just a motor swap.... I've never just pulled my engine out by itself. It's easier to bolt gear box to motor while its out of the car anyway. Plus you can degrease the box completely when it's out to make it look fresh... It will be a struggle to get to those gearbox bolts unless the gearbox crossmember is unbolted and when its unbolted you need to take the shifter linkages off and drive shaft to drop it down enough to get to the bolts. Might aswell pull it all out in 1 go. Plus it may be harder to line up and get the box to slide onto the rear of motor when it's in the car. Do-able but annoying....
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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Okay, I will take all this into account. I am getting under the car tomorrow and assess what I am going to do. I was hoping to leave the box in as I am not very strong, have a fked back and dont like the idea of moving heavy gearboxes and engines around. I would really prefer not to have to mess about with heavy sht if I can avoid it. An engine is more than heavy for me. Tho bolts on the box are no problem, I have access to some long socket extensions and a rattlegun (hell yeah).
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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That's why you are using an engine crane to lift both out lol. Once it's all out let the engine down onto a block of wood but don't let it down fully take the slack up with the crane so nothing falls over and then undo gearbox bolts and torque converter bolts then use a pry bar to pop the gearbox off the back of the motor. Im assuming you will have a mate helping? Get him to hold the box/ pull it off the motor while you pry it. It will basically be on the ground so you don't have to do much lifting. The only hard part is putting the box onto the back of the motor but its still fairly easy. I usually lift the box onto the engine myself and I get a mate to put a bolt in and do it up once I know everything is flush, then it's all the crane from there. Just get your mate to put the box back onto the rear of the motor and you put the bolts in and zip them up with a rattle gun. The Box's in these motors are fairly light so it's easy for one person to lift. Even the btr isn't all that heavy...
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| caseyaberhart |
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Okay... Time for the "told you so's"
The engine and box are coming out together. Bolting the box to the engine will be no biggie now I have myself an army of 5 blokes. I got under the car today and undid the starter, heater, and fuel lines and exhaust. Am I forgetting anything? Everyone here has been incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it. I am sure I will have forgotten to undo something when it comes time to pull the box and motor out. Also, can anyone tell me how much the bt auto box weighs and how much the engine weighs?Jjust curious. Cheers
_________________ Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap. |
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