Hi im currently doing a manual conversion on my series 1 au ive taken the auto out and put the manual in so all thats done, as far as electrics go ive briged the the park and neutral start switch and wired up the reverse lights but the car wont start what resistors do i need to use and where do i put them?? Any help would be appreciated. Also can i just solder the resistors into the plug that plugs into the box? Thanks

Ok car is starting now but the thermo fans are running non stop

You need to add another resistor somewhere on the plug to trick the ECU that the transmission is at operating temperature.

Right now your ECU thinks your transmission is overheated and the fans kick in to cool it (well this happens in the E-series...I assume the same for the AU).

Can't remember what resistor size or what pins (since I did mine on an EL). So someone else may fill you in on that.

you need a resistor between the two trans temp sender wires. With the information I found on the site I still needed to experiment with resistors to get the desired effect. It seems (at least with the au) the ecu temperature control for the engine is compounded by trans temp so the resistors I used originally allowed the fans to be off when first started, but when taken for a long drive they wouldn't come off. I can't remember off the top of my head what value I used but I remember going up a fair bit in resistor value. You also need another resistor to tell the ecu it's in neutral. meaning it will always show 'N' on the dash.

**edit

computer needs between 6.8 & 7.2 kohm between pin 64 & 91 for gear selection. This can be achieved by running a 7k resistor between the seperate 2 pin plug at the trans end,one wire should be violet & the other pink with light green trace.

it also needs between 57ohm to 15.5kohm resistance between pins 37 & 91 for temperature. This can be achieved by placing the resistor between the yellow wire and tan wire with red trace from the big round plug. from memory I used about 12-14k of resistance.

pays to have a book with wiring diagrams and diagnostic charts.

hey mate im having alot of trouble findiong info on how to bridge the wires out to tart the car, what color wires did you bridge?

To start the car you just need to bridge 2 of the wires on the 4 pin plug.

It shouldnt be hard to find out which ones. Just experiment until it works.

the neutral lockout switch is seperate from the gear range selector sensor and runs with the reverse light circuit. you need to bridge the neutral start switch, hook up the reverse lights to the reverse switch and then you should be able to start it, you can achieve this by poking around as dan mentioned.

then you worry about getting the fans sorted.

I briged the black wire and the red wire with a blue stripe and wired up the reverse lights but im still not sure what wires to connect with a resistor to turn the fans off??

& read previous posts.

will the car start with this?
is it the same for an EL

Yep car starts, idles and drives fine but the thermo fans are on full time im not sure if this is the case with the el but someone on here will be able to tell you.

Theres a sticky around for an el I believe. This is an au thread.

I know this is an old topic, but it was most helpful. Just did the conversion of a Series 11 LPG ute. The new manual pedal box was suffering from metal fatigue so boxed that up - will last forever now. new clutch and pressure plate. New solid bush in the selector the T5 shifts like new. The tails shaft is longer so used the donor shaft. Bell housing bolts were not too hard, dropped the rear cross member and lowered the whole thing. Supported the FRONT of the motor with a bottle jack. Supported gearbox with trolley jack. Hardest bit was the starter motor.

Trickiest bit was the electrical, thanks to the research in this post and some others on this site, shorted the starter lockout, on the 4 pin plug, connected the other two wires to the reverse switch. DOwn to Jaycar and bought a pack of 13K and a pack of 7.5K resistors for $1.10.

The car acts and drives like it should from the factory, no lights, no fans. More power and better fuel.

$450 for the donor parts, $170 for clutch kit, $30 or $40 for consumables, less what I get for a perfectly good auto and tails shaft, and the second hand clutch parts which were in very good order.

Great thread - I followed the instructions and worked well.

Car starts and thermo fans don’t go on.

There anyway to get the “N” display off the dash though?