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| Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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I have seen it but I think the better mod is to raise the surge tank by swapping for AU tank and hose.
If Ford thought it would help then I won't argue with the engineers If you look at the BA/F they have a higher one again. If you can try to keep the air bubbles from forming an air lock in the head. air in the head = hot spot and localised overheating causing CRACKS. This is what happened to me when my surge tank was cracked. I kept losing coolant and the head cracked.
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: I have seen it but I think the better mod is to raise the surge tank by swapping for AU tank and hose.
i think the problem is more related to the coolant flow in the motor, and limited airflow in the engine bay, combined with s**t orginal gaskets and headbolts rather than the postion of the coolant reservoir |
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| rdiigen |
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Are we all talking about standard ford EF gaskets or can I assume that an AU / ACL / Jim-mock-special-super-dooper-triple-layer-metal-go-fast gaskets will ALL tend to break over these periods?
I need to go see my analyst now and treat this nervous condition ive developed about my car 
zxhoon: have you checked your cooler hose clamps. I had one just above my alternater which wasnt tight enough and was leaking and staining my alternater. Lucky it didnt kill my alternater. Tightened it up and no water loss. |
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| zxhoon |
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ooh rdiigen, will have to check that out, mechanic just said it was leaking, i poked my head under and saw the water mark down the side of the engine so left it at that... will have to have a closer look, im not too worried though, if it blows ill get an AU motor heh... mechanic quoted 1100 for a reco head replacement... if i can get a whole motor for a lot less why bother :p
cheers 
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| Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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a reco c/o head is $595 plus fitting and gasket.
so doing it yourself will be about $800
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| locknut |
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Mine has it!
I got a new head in Apr/june last year. The new head was already tapped, and the workshop ran the hose to between cyl's 5 & 6. The hose connects via a T-piece just after the overflow bottle.
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| turbotrana |
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so in theory what is this hose meant to do. Is coolant running from the head or to the head in this hose or is it just there to get rid of air pockets.
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| turbotrana |
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locknut, would you be able to take a side on pic which shows the exact location of the tapping point and a pic of the connection point of the t piece
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| locknut |
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Yep yep, will do later today. It's tapped in at a slight angle too by memory.
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| USELESS |
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turbotrana wrote: so in theory what is this hose meant to do. Is coolant running from the head or to the head in this hose or is it just there to get rid of air pockets.
The front of our cylinder heads run cooler due to the water pump location.I believe this is a good mod and will help prevent head warpage. As for the head bolts..I had ,my head installed wehn I blew my last engine by wreckers.they done a very bodgey job and water leakt the very next day into the motor.I retightened the bolts to 3 times the ford specs and it hasnt leakt since.
_________________ 14.77 @92.71mph July 06 14.52@95.68mph July 07 14.241 96.7 MPH in a shoebox/taxi au ford wagon!!Bwahahah still cant believe it!!! |
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| Peter7 |
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Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: a reco c/o head is $595 plus fitting and gasket.
so doing it yourself will be about $800 If you do it yourself it will be a bit different figure: Machining head surface: $55 Pressure test: about $40 VRS with new bolts: about $100 Lapping equipment (if you dont have your own yet): about $35 Coolant: $45 Oil+filter: $40 Total: $315
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| zxhoon |
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Peter7 wrote: Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: a reco c/o head is $595 plus fitting and gasket. so doing it yourself will be about $800 If you do it yourself it will be a bit different figure: Machining head surface: $55 Pressure test: about $40 VRS with new bolts: about $100 Lapping equipment (if you dont have your own yet): about $35 Coolant: $45 Oil+filter: $40 Total: $315 firstly, sorry for the total thread derailment here! ive been doing searches and reading up, still unsure of what to try really... you think its worth just taking the head off, reversal of torrque sequence, etc. getting it tested and cleaned up and just putting it back on again? what do you need the lapping equipment for? i dont have money to burn but at the same time i dont want to go to the effort of all that and then having the gasket blow in 6 months, or worse a week later :p cheers
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| Peter7 |
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zxhoon wrote: ive been doing searches and reading up, still unsure of what to try really... you think its worth just taking the head off, reversal of torrque sequence, etc. getting it tested and cleaned up and just putting it back on again? what do you need the lapping equipment for? i dont have money to burn but at the same time i dont want to go to the effort of all that and then having the gasket blow in 6 months, or worse a week later :p
cheers Lapping equipment you need to lap the valves.
If you don’t know what and how to do- better to refer to workshop, it will be cheaper for you at the end. 
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| Krytox |
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The biggest mistake would be buying a VRS kit off the shelf.
in fact, If you do buy a VRS kit, Throw away the Head gasket.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| Peter7 |
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Krytox wrote: The biggest mistake would be buying a VRS kit off the shelf.
in fact, If you do buy a VRS kit, Throw away the Head gasket. Burson and Repco selling wrong goods?  
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