lol thats old man, i still get s**t about it but, im over it now,

Sorry, could've sworn that was what he did. That comment is rich coming from you though Matt; 10 day build much.[/quote

Not a problem teknoslasher ive made enough mistakes

SWC

Good post and simple and easy to understand, can u take pic's of ur conversion for steps 2,7 & 8 so we have a better idea please

as above, well itemized.


When I Installed my Au into an EF, I used the following:
AU Balancer.
AU Knock sensor.
and likewise, retain the driven gear from the AU and transfer it to your product.
You need to notch out a grove to fit the synchronizer in the original position.

mild pics here:
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/au-sump-mod-for-e-series-t79648.html

Did you use the AU Harmonic with the EF Cam sensor. I have looked at both and they look the same to me but I was told there is supposed to be some difference with the teeth, look the same and are the same number.

Did you do a cut and shut with the plug for the AU knock sensor, I was lead to believe that there was a difference with the sensors, maybe there isn't.

Actually, no you dont.
If you have the motor on TDC, and then insert the synchronizer with an allen key in the slot (to keep it on the TDC setting), you dont have to modify anything. Motor is on TDC, sensor is in TDC position.

I'll just point out a few things from SWC's post.

2) To use your original alternator you cut the tab from the side of the water pump, and a small piece from the block below the water pump. Its self explanatory once you sit the alt. bracket up against it and see where it fouls.
You need to tap 1 bolt hole, the centre one in the bracket (is covered by the alt. when installed).

7) AU sensor is fine to use. You simply swap the plugs.

8) You can bolt up the AC as per the EF/EL setup. No need to cut or modify anything.

10) EF/AU use the same balancer.

Yes you do for the 'original position' otherwise it faces the other way and stretches the wires. because the mounting thread is 180deg. from and EF block.
Alternatively if you don't use the 'checked' out bit and hold it like a Dissy you can have it anywhere you like. I prefer the non movement way. otherwise yes, with a rivet/nail whatever when throwing it in, its TDC.


Thats all I did, and if your really clever you dont even have to cut the plug, the you can undo your existing plug and the interanal connectors are the same just different housing, throw them together and heat shrink them, done.


True, just makes the belt a fair bit tighter, I cut them as my main goal was for the higher revs.


Thats what I figured! plus it had done less K's, and i don't like mixing and matching withough replacing seals.

I didnt have any issues with stretching the wires to get to the sync in the different position, I might have routed it a slightly different way though. IMO it is much easier to do it my way as you dont have to cut a slot in the bracket, and it still sends the exact same signal to the ECU.

I thought the connectors looked the same in the knock sensor plug, but swapping 2 wires looked easier.. and I didnt have to worry about breaking a plug lol.

With the AC setup, I am using this in conjunction with the original alternator, so the original EF belt fits as it would on any other EF.

That is why you can use the original Serpentine belt, if using the AU alternator the belt will not strtch that far, you can use an XG belt as they are a little longer. One advantage of using the AU alternator / BA/BF is that they are more readily available second hand and in better quality than the EF/EL secondhand (less km).

there are many ways to fit the auxilaries to the front, all are right nonne are wrong. The ones that I posted work for me and are a proven quantity. It is Good to list the alternatives that people have to them. I am now clear myself that an AU harmonic can be used.

One word of advice when mounting the EF cam sensor. DO NOT DRILL and try and tap a hole in the original EF position. The block section there on the AU block is only approx 10-15mm thick and goes straight to a oil gallery. Best to use the existing hole and mod the Cam sensor/Clamp plate.

OK We can now add a few things to the list and clear up a couple of other points

Things reqired to fit AU engine to EF/EL

1) sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU.

2) Need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: Believe that the AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issues, there have been issues with dizzys failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be requiered to use the existing mount point, extra notch/gring Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use a EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the uppers are different to the AU. Also us the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternativly you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug)

12) you can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

Last edited by SWC on Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I guess when everything fits its all good, I just like to go that extra mile and have everything precise.

My main concern is the AU block has raised AC mounts where all models below don't...shifting the compressor 20mm more towards the guard and tightening the belt.

This is why I shorten the spacers to suit the EF serpentine belt. Keeps things stock for replacements

Only reason I used all my original EF gear on the front was that the AU motor I bought didnt come with anything, so I made it all work. Was pretty simple really, I only taped 1 thread in the whole conversion.

Like I said though, you do not need to modify the bracket/clamp for the cam synchroniser. TDC motor, sync locked in TDC position and you can slot it in any which way you like, including using the existing hole in the AU block.

I documented it all with pictures if you want to have a look just do a search fitting Au motor into Ef and it shoul help you.

You can fit an EF/EL sump onto a AU motor providing that you also use the timing cover....

You use the EF sump gasket but on the rear rubber bit you have to put in a crapload of silicon in the groove so it seals.....

I will try and find some pics I took