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| mattymc |
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Greenmachine wrote: shyun wrote: Greenmachine wrote: I saw those dips - and actually took them as a possible sign the BBM wasn't working - ie. engine not doing what the ECU expected at that point (to me the graph lines fall back a bit and then resume). But if it's been physically confirmed as switching then it's working... Like we said - the base timing needs to be same as it was for the ED ECU - if it's been set up differently then that's probably the issue right there. Why should he have 10deg BTDC when an el ecu has timing set to run at 0?? Since you have a chip though you can just add more timing on that though and see if it makes a difference. In my case - and it looks like it was the same for dazza027 - BECAUSE IT APPARENTLY SEEMED TO WORK!!! I did the same thing as dazza and initially didn't touch the dizzy when the EL ECU went in - the car ran and felt fine like that but I figured I'd better do the right thing and set it to TDC and it was F***ed - pretty much what's being described by the OP here - so I put it back to the original ED timing and all was sweet again. I SAY AGAIN: WHEN I PUT THE EL ECU IN MY ED IT RAN PROPERLY ONLY WHEN THE TIMING WAS SET TO BE THE SAME AS THE ED ECU - SO THIS MIGHT BE THE ISSUE HERE TOO. How much clearer can we be??? I don't know WHY that was the case - it simply was. Talking EXPERIENCE here - not just pulling suppositions out of my a rse. Chill out mate I havent been well enough to play with the timing yet. I have taken your comments on board and will have a play. No need to be rude about it. As for setting base timing with an el ecu I will double check that I have set it after the 2 min period buy am fairly sure that I did. Here's the cam specs 
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| Greenmachine |
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mattymc - I was a tad frustrated with shyun there - not having a bark at you.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| mattymc |
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Greenmachine wrote: mattymc - I was a tad frustrated with shyun there - not having a bark at you. Oh ok I thourght that you were talking to me  .I just reset the timing and I noticed my car is not doing what yours does in diagnostic mode Troy. It raises its revs almost strait away like an ed ecu. I have waited for 2 min and it did not do as an el should. I have set timing to 10 degrees and it now idles at 1100rpm so I think that 10 degrees is not working either. I'll have a bit more of a play another time when it's not so freezing and rainy. |
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| TROYMAN |
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it should, maybe there are fault cods that need to be cleared..
after it starts the rpm should rise like you have said, but usually after the 2 min mark it goes into timing mode.. even try again and if it hasnt gone into timing mode after 2 1/2 mins just blip the throttle a little it might push it into timing mode.. we had to do this on benj's eb when it didnt goe into timing mode.. otherwise, when the engine is warm,without putting the ecu in timing mode, just put the timing light on it and it should be around 20 deg btdc.. aprox 20-25mm before the tdc mark.. that will be around the right area.. |
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| Greenmachine |
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There's no guarantee yours will end up being the same as mine and dazza027's in running properly at ED timing - but that's what we experienced so I figure it's worth looking into.
Don't go by what the idle does - you may need to reset the base idle speed. And I'm talking about the resulting idle from running ED timing - not the diagnostic thing - mine always dropped into diagnostic fine after a couple of minutes so I can't offer any help there.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| mattymc |
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Bit of an update.
Had a chance to run a proper diagnostic on the car and these are the results. Key on engine off: 511- Ecu Fault (Bit concerned about that one). 116- Coolent temp sensor out of range(I'll replace the sensor). 783- TPS out of range (Not really sure how to calibrate this on the GRA throttle body). Key on engine running: 121- TPS 411- Idle speed controller. Low idle fail ( I think this is timing related). I have another ecu I will try and then if that works I'll chase the other problems. Will see how I go but there is plenty that could be causing my issues there |
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| Greenmachine |
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That 511 fault could simply be because the EL ecu is in an ED?
411 could either be because it's trying to drive an ED ISC (have you fitted an EL one? ) - or it could be because the timing is late - by oh, umm maybe 10 degrees? (wink) - so the ISC is having to go out of range to try and control it.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| TROYMAN |
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ive run the same set up previously and never got the 511 or the 411 codes..
all isc's are interchangable... the thing that will stop the ecu from going into timing mode is the tps being out of range. you need to check the voltage between the signal ground and signal return on the tps and it needs to be as close to 0.7v at closed throttle |
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| mattymc |
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A quick update.
Have replaced the TPS with a new on as it was faulty and set it correctly. gets 0.7v at closed throttle and 3.2v at WOT. Also replaced the coolent temp sensor while I was there. Have also reset the ecu. The result so far has been very impressive. The car has its note back and is accelerating really well now. Have not set base idle yet or base timing but from the way it is running things cant be too bad. Will put it back on the dyno soon and see where things are at. Thanks for all the idea's guys and I'll post the results up when done. Which I hope are good. |
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| mattymc |
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Well my joy was short lived
 . Had it back on the dyno on Friday and there is no change in power. The power curve is much smoother and has lost most of the dip it had before. It is running a bit rich now but now enough to kill power off as much as it is.I'm going to swap out the throttle body and see what happens then. If there is minimal change then I will change the cam for something more serious. Have gone through just about everything with this setup and they are the only two things I can think of now that could hold it back. Will report what happens with the TB swap. |
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| mattymc |
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ok well the results are in. 145rwkw with the standard throttle body. So it made 10kw more with the gas research gear removed so the throttle body was a big part of the issues I was having. Still wanting to go a bigger cam now not sure if I should go a Wade 977b or a cms stage 3. Anyone had experiance with both?.
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| mattymc |
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| efxr6wagon |
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That plot looks good! It stopped at 5000rpm, but would still be putting out good power at 5500rpm or even higher.
Unless you're going to raise your rev limiter and be doing a lot of racing, it's probably not worth going to a hotter cam. All that's likely to do is gain a little above 4000rpm at the cost of less torque below that, especially below 3000rpm where you probably spend most of your time.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Funny that, you take out the restrictive gas mixer and gain 10kw.............................................
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