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| ryanpatrick42 |
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Even though the water problem is fixed now, it still tends to do it a little, just not as much. I should clear up that the car IDLES AND RUNS PERFECTLY, and only wants to stall WHEN BRAKING FIRMLY. This is making me think it has something to do with the transmission switch thing. Thanks for all your help so far guys.
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| B Bear |
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ryanpatrick42 wrote: Even though the water problem is fixed now, it still tends to do it a little, just not as much. I should clear up that the car IDLES AND RUNS PERFECTLY, and only wants to stall WHEN BRAKING FIRMLY. This is making me think it has something to do with the transmission switch thing. Thanks for all your help so far guys. Yep more than certain it's the inhibitor switch, mine would stall under heaving braking. |
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| ryanpatrick42 |
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What's involved in getting to the transmission inhibitor switch to change it? Where is it located? Can I get to it by getting under the car while it's up on the ramps?
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| B Bear |
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ryanpatrick42 wrote: What's involved in getting to the transmission inhibitor switch to change it? Where is it located? Can I get to it by getting under the car while it's up on the ramps? On the left hand side of the transmission you should see a plastic little module. Isn't too hard to change over.... -Take off the bolt - Remove the clip that holds the wire - Unplugged the wire - Wiggle the inhibitor switch to get it off - Get a steal brush and remove rust from the shaft that sticks out from the transmission - Place your new switch back on and it should have a locator on the shaft and switch - Plug it back up and put the bolt on It may take a little bit of driver for the car to settle down and have the ecu fix up the idle but should fix the problem at hand. And yep by putting the car up on ramps you will have easy access to it. Also a picture of what it looks like..... Transmission full:  Closer image: 
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| ozebob |
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My '99 AU dual fuel Fairmont is doing the "stall under heavy braking" too.....tho it only does it on petrol, NOT LPG! I'm gonna investigate the fuel filter/fuel pump. Already done inlet mani gasket and injector "o" rings ( replaced coz of no idle on LPG) Petrol isn't as fussy with vacuum leaks . Will post a follow up when sorted.
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| ryanpatrick42 |
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B Bear wrote: ryanpatrick42 wrote: What's involved in getting to the transmission inhibitor switch to change it? Where is it located? Can I get to it by getting under the car while it's up on the ramps? On the left hand side of the transmission you should see a plastic little module. Isn't too hard to change over.... -Take off the bolt - Remove the clip that holds the wire - Unplugged the wire - Wiggle the inhibitor switch to get it off - Get a steal brush and remove rust from the shaft that sticks out from the transmission - Place your new switch back on and it should have a locator on the shaft and switch - Plug it back up and put the bolt on It may take a little bit of driver for the car to settle down and have the ecu fix up the idle but should fix the problem at hand. And yep by putting the car up on ramps you will have easy access to it. Also a picture of what it looks like..... Transmission full: Closer image: THANK YOU HEAPS! This helps me a lot. I'll give it a go and replace it with a new one when I get some money together for it. It doesn't really bother me too much now I know how to drive it although I defiantly want to get it fixed soon. Thanks again for all your help everyone, i'll let you know how it all turns out!
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| B Bear |
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ryanpatrick42 wrote: B Bear wrote: ryanpatrick42 wrote: What's involved in getting to the transmission inhibitor switch to change it? Where is it located? Can I get to it by getting under the car while it's up on the ramps? On the left hand side of the transmission you should see a plastic little module. Isn't too hard to change over.... -Take off the bolt - Remove the clip that holds the wire - Unplugged the wire - Wiggle the inhibitor switch to get it off - Get a steal brush and remove rust from the shaft that sticks out from the transmission - Place your new switch back on and it should have a locator on the shaft and switch - Plug it back up and put the bolt on It may take a little bit of driver for the car to settle down and have the ecu fix up the idle but should fix the problem at hand. And yep by putting the car up on ramps you will have easy access to it. Also a picture of what it looks like..... THANK YOU HEAPS! This helps me a lot. I'll give it a go and replace it with a new one when I get some money together for it. It doesn't really bother me too much now I know how to drive it although I defiantly want to get it fixed soon. Thanks again for all your help everyone, i'll let you know how it all turns out! Always happy to help mate  Having had the same problem I know what ya mean, it's bearable but it will give you the s**t from time to time.
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| EBI347 |
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Have u done a simple test yet like reset ur base idle aswell as ur tb gets dirty it can do the same thing
Disconect ur idle motor and screw the base idle screw in untill it just idles I mean just bearley running then reconnect ur idle motor plug
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| fiftyone |
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B Bear wrote: ryanpatrick42 wrote: What's involved in getting to the transmission inhibitor switch to change it? Where is it located? Can I get to it by getting under the car while it's up on the ramps? On the left hand side of the transmission you should see a plastic little module. Isn't too hard to change over.... -Take off the bolt - Remove the clip that holds the wire - Unplugged the wire - Wiggle the inhibitor switch to get it off - Get a steal brush and remove rust from the shaft that sticks out from the transmission - Place your new switch back on and it should have a locator on the shaft and switch - Plug it back up and put the bolt on It may take a little bit of driver for the car to settle down and have the ecu fix up the idle but should fix the problem at hand. And yep by putting the car up on ramps you will have easy access to it. Also a picture of what it looks like..... Transmission full: Closer image: Got some more info on this inhibitor thing? My car has been acting up for ages & every sensor I replace & check makes me more confused. I'm thinking I could be on something here though. Any idea what its worth?
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| tearlejc |
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just putting it out there, back in my cab driving days we used to have this problem - more, actually, with the older VB VC commodes but also with the E series falcs - either on heavy braking or quick u turns, the car would want to stall - my owner used to take it as a sign that the car needed a gas tune - is the car in question on lpg at all?
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| fiftyone |
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tearlejc wrote: just putting it out there, back in my cab driving days we used to have this problem - more, actually, with the older VB VC commodes but also with the E series falcs - either on heavy braking or quick u turns, the car would want to stall - my owner used to take it as a sign that the car needed a gas tune - is the car in question on lpg at all? I uturned the other day & it stalled good & propper on me & without warning. Not on LP
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| ryanpatrick42 |
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tearlejc wrote: just putting it out there, back in my cab driving days we used to have this problem - more, actually, with the older VB VC commodes but also with the E series falcs - either on heavy braking or quick u turns, the car would want to stall - my owner used to take it as a sign that the car needed a gas tune - is the car in question on lpg at all? My car is on LPG, but not factory AND it will tend to want to stall when not running on LPG as well.
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| ozebob |
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(My situation is stalling under petrol only ) So far I've changed fuel filter (fail) inhibitor switch (fail) cleaned ISC and throttle body with Sudco guff (magic stuff) now starts on LPG gangbusters. I've been looking for the fuel pump earth which is supposedly on the inner guard on the drivers side, to look for a bad earth which also earths the brake lights and reverse lights. I cant find it and my old eyes struggle to see the schematics on this site. ( I jumped the earth ( thick black wire with silver spots?) of the fuel pump in the back to the body , but it didn't change anything) Is it under the relay box in the engine bay?. Later today I'm gonna change the fuel pump, and maybe the tank if it's gimmed up badly.
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| madmuso |
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see my "summary" post on this thread here:
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/94-ef-futura-6-cyl-idle-issues-t94768.html I had the same kind of issues, hope this helps! |
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| ozebob |
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My problem is fixed...in a fashion. When I got under the car to see where the fuel tank fasteners were, to drop the tank out, I noted that the LPG tank had to come out first. I just dont really want to do that yet. I tapped the fuel tank and bounced the car a bit to see just how much fuel was left and came to the conclusion that it was pretty empty. Trip meter display indicated about 100k's to empty. I went to the local servo and put 20 ltrs in and voila, no more stalling under braking. This is a high k car (300k) and I reckon that the tank internals/gauze filter are a bit gummed up from the PO running too much on LPG, and when hitting the brakes sloshes the fuel forward and out of the intake. Eventually I will pull it all out but atm I'm a happy chappy. I followed the link from the last post and had a good read. If you have an EF and yr idle goes totally away, it is yr ecu that is cactus.
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