Carby cleaners great for everything....
with the ISC I spray it with carb cleaner... then quickly hit it with WD40, so it doesn't have time to damage the valve.

Works best on headlights on EF/EL's
cos once you spray em... ur buying New ones!

Please don't try it!


That was actually the first post i ever read....
some woodduck told someone else to spray them with C/C and the other party did!.
So all in all.... they're both idiots!

Yeah stuffs your headlights up real fast. wasnt it one mile sniper or something?

on my previous ea s-pack i cleaned the isc with carby cleaner and it stuffed it. i wish i had known about the wd40 trick.

K guys I got my idle a bit smoother, but I still have another idle problem.

When I start the car is flies up to 2000, then almost dies at 200rpm, then goes back up to 1000rpm, and then settles around 600-800rpm. It also drops RPM and almost dies when I put into gear (Drive, reverse, etc.).

What the fudge is that?

does it hunt the revs all the time, or just when its first started dude?

Have you checked the timing (with timing light) since doing the head gasket?

You might want to change your signature too...lol...

Umm, nope, is that to do with the timing chain?



Nah mate, only when I first turned off, and a little when I put it into reverse or drive.

what you doing saturday/sunday tilly?

Work in the afternoons mate, gym Saturday morning.

ok, well next cruise or what not come along and ill plug the diag box into your port see what i catch heheh

or reset the ecu again. i might of just picked up a bad habit somewhere

Fifty I've had the battery off for more than an hour, hell even for hours, many times. So it must of reset a few times by now. Still has a crappy idle, among another acceleration issues.

Sounds good sam.

till, take it for a drive with a/c on and off.
see what happens after a good drive.

Please excuse the thread necromancy.

I'd been chasing the occasionally rough idle in my EF II for a while. After doing the injectors (and pump and filter for good measure), a new O2 sensor made a huge diff. Did intake air and coolant temp sensors at the same time cos she's coming up on 30 years and who knows what's been done the other 27, even though she's in good nick overall.

Had been thinking the electrolytic caps in the ECU might be getting on a bit too. Searched and found this thread, thanks OP for paving the way here, and specifying the caps so I could order those before pulling stuff apart. Went with Panasonic as they were the best combo of rated lifespan at 105 deg C and a good name brand for these I found available. Ordered from Mouser.

We cracked open the ECU tonight and found the original brown caps were not bulging or leaking but at that age why would we stop there.

Took a fair bit of care with the iron up high, a smidge over 400 deg C to dislodge the smaller one and not mess up the pads or traces but we got there. We had to scratch the epoxy coating off the PCB around the base of the caps. The ground plane sucks up a lot of the heat. The larger one come out easy. Flux, IPA and hot glue to brace against vibration had her all tidied back up. Tested connectivity between the legs and other points on the cct board and it was good, plugged her back in and she fired right up and ran smooth.

One of the old caps tested at double its rated capacitance.

The drive home was sensational, didn't want to stop. Smooth and quiet, reminds me of when these were new. Stoked to have got this done, and the result.

Glad to have a mate who solders better than I do, not sure what else the $400 reco'd ECUs I've seen advertised have done besides this.

Cheers