is there any way to do your own port and polish at home? and if so how do you do it?

Yes, you can do your own poring at home. But you need to do a bit of reading before picking up any tools. Perhaps get an old head to practice. Here's a link that might be useful:

ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/porting-t54951.html?hilit=porting

If you do a search for 'porting', you'll see it's been discussed quite a bit.

lol sorry im abit lazy so i just ask i never look around lol

but that link doesnt really explain how to do much :S

all i really want to know is if some one out there can explain to me how to do a port and polish job myself eg. what sand paper i need' and pretty much the process...

just clean the dags and burrs up.. rub down the inlet tracts but leave rough not polished to promote a little swirl.
you'll still have to take it to a head guy to have a 3 angle valve job on it.. have it all measured up right.

just get some 80grit and go to town in it. If you are too lazy to research it then you will be too lazy to finish the job. Even if you do finish it, what you do end up doing will ruin the head.

stock heads already have a 3 angle seat. and for the time you spend taking off dags and burrs ect.
I could spend half the time doing a bowl job and leave the dags and burrs in place and still pick up double the flow that your effort would get.

yeah.. but there isnt going to be much of the seats left after the 80 grit gets in there.. hey we are talking to this guy, he doesnt know what he's doing.. they have to be knowledgeably unshrouded, you want him to get stuck into the bowls?
what do the standard heads flow at any rate? might be a waste of time unless the motor is off its tits.. i remember back when we'd port the old honda 750 heads till we flowed a standard one.. it flowed a 1000cc anyway.
My left nut he f**k the head..
why would you leave the burrs and dags?

About the easiest thing your going to be able to do at home is a simple match port of the inlet manifold and extractor to the head. Other than that, specialist tools and equipment will be required. Ie flow bench, die grinder with appropriate cutters and stones etc. Better off paying for the job to be done. There are sections of the runners that are crucial to the flow of gas, and if you f**k it up, it can MASSIVELY impede the flow, which effectively f**k the head. All I can say is DO NOT TOUCH the small radius curve into the chamber (just behind the valve seat where it turns to go down the runner) with anything. Some simple things to do would be reduce the size of the Valve guide boss in the port and make that section much smoother, with no sharp turns or tight angles. But remember that doing this reduces service life of the valve guide so in 20000 k's when you have to replace the guides dont whinge cos youve been warned. But either way, unless you have a s**t hot cam grind to take advantage of any port work, you really are wasting time and effort. I spent 40 hours working on a holden 3.3 head years ago, removed the runner dividers in the inlet manifold, worked the shape of the port where the head bolts go through the head, went silly in the bowls etc. Didnt make a licking s**t of difference until the cam went in but jeez did it go after that. Couldnt keep a transmission in one piece behind it for more than 5000 ks.

i dunno i was just thinking of doing a basic port job just polish out the extractor ports and polish out the bowl and that was what i was thinking.....im lost mate[img][/img]

 

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EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high

My Build: the-garage-f53/daniels-el-xr6-build-t100586.html

If I were you Id keep up with the basic mods, exhaust, intake, maybe a trans shift kit for some crisper shifts, assuming you have an auto. Then maybe a diff gear swap to 3.45:1 if you dont already have them. Then move on to the bigger stuff like a performance cam and head porting later on when you have the cash to pay someone to do it. It doesnt particularly matter what order you do the work in, Id go from cheapest to most expensive in order if it were me. Go get yourself a throttle body from the wreckers and do the throttle body mod if your looking for something to port and polish. As far as I am aware it gives good results and will take away your desire to sand something. There is a technical document on how to do this on this site somewhere. Just search for it.

I really wouldn't recommend port matching the exhaust to the extractors, you can open the port up a little but you don't want them matched like an intake.

I go out as far as the image left from the gasket, not the pipes. As for the inlets, Leave the surfaces rough, dont smooth them, but do get rid of all the dags etc. The roughness of the surfaces helps with equal fuel atomisation through the mix. Another thing you can do is Spark Plug Indexing. You can buy the shims from a speed shop, and basically all you do is point the plug electrode directly at the exhaust valve stem. Frees up 1-2 hp per cylinder. I know that is next to nothing but lets say you find 6hp doing it, thats 6 you didnt have before all for maybe 15 bux.

My point was for the time spent, removing burrs and dags equates 1/3 of f**k all when it comes to getting these heads to flow. It would be a waste of time.
The time needs to be spent in the bowl and short turn.

Scroll down this page until you find the pics of the AU VCT head that I cut up.
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/possible-head-porting-docco-coming-soon-t86312-80.html

There aren't to many dags or burrs to be seen, yet the area 1/2inch either side of the seat and the short turn is pretty ordinary. Time is better spent in the worst areas if you are looking for the best gains.