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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
fiftyone wrote: yes, thats what i was told.
i assume through the metal in the hole of the braket OK, thanks. I will ground it in one way or another.....
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
Well it is STILL not going. Replaced the coil and the dizzy (after all the usual checks), got spark but still no firing.
Then replaced the ECU and the smartlock module, did the 30 minute thing etc and still no fire. At my wits end now and need the friggen car home to deal with it further. Question: Will putting a non-smartlock ECU in disable smartlock functionality? May try this first if it is a workable idea. On the flip side, will putting a smartlock ECU in a non-smartlock car work?
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| BenJ |
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A smartlock ECU in a non smartlock car will definitely not work.
The other way around? I am not sure. Anyone? BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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| KRUPTD |
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Make sure you have constant STRONG spark....If it isnt continuous you will have trouble starting..
Then i would suggest checking for injector pulse.Use a 12volt test light and disconnect one of the injector plugs and brinde between the injector plug terminals with the test light and get someone to crank it over and make sure you have continuous injection pulse. Also make sure you have fuel at the supply line just disconnect it and get someone to turn the key as you watch for fuel. To me it doesnt sound like a smartlock issue. Also with the coil a hint is to use a quarter drive ratchet with a universal and extension (8mm socket)and you can get the top bolt from up top then the bottom one from underneath.Also if the problem was a faulty ignition coil too get you out of trouble you can simply disconnect the old one and just plug it up and that would get you where you want till you can fit it proper. Also some people have mentioned the CLP fuse if this was blown the smartlock light will not flash.Also with the TFI module it is cheaper just to replace it if it were faulty but if you were to replace just the module you would have to remove the distributor for easy access. See how you,let us know what happens.cheers
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
KRUPTD wrote: Make sure you have constant STRONG spark....If it isnt continuous you will have trouble starting.. The spark seems pretty good, I can see it in sunlight and the "crack" is definitely audible. KRUPTD wrote: Then i would suggest checking for injector pulse.Use a 12volt test light and disconnect one of the injector plugs and brinde between the injector plug terminals with the test light and get someone to crank it over and make sure you have continuous injection pulse. Will do when I get it back in my driveway KRUPTD wrote: Also make sure you have fuel at the supply line just disconnect it and get someone to turn the key as you watch for fuel. Was going to do that but I remembered the fuel is under pressure. I got to the point of undoing the hose clamp and stopped  KRUPTD wrote: To me it doesnt sound like a smartlock issue. Here's hoping! KRUPTD wrote: Also if the problem was a faulty ignition coil too get you out of trouble you can simply disconnect the old one and just plug it up and that would get you where you want till you can fit it proper. I have done this very thing, disconnected the old one, fought with the wiring and attached a replacement temporarily KRUPTD wrote: Also some people have mentioned the CLP fuse if this was blown the smartlock light will not flash.Also with the TFI module it is cheaper just to replace it if it were faulty but if you were to replace just the module you would have to remove the distributor for easy access.
I have checked and changed the CLP fuse, interior lights work. With the TFI, I replaced the whole dizzy after setting TDC etc etc etc. Give me the days where the only problems could be fuel to the carbs or spark to the plugs. Oh, and an easily accessable dizzy would help too, I think I need to buy a V8...
Cheers Bruce
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
Oh, and one things with the ECU/Smartlock resetting. I waited 30 odd minutes, the smartlock light stopping flashing (went out) but the door locks didn't cycle. Should I leave it until it does?
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| KRUPTD |
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If you leave the ignition on for 30mins it will override the smartlock and in some cases be able to start the car..Im not too sure about the smartlock light issue.
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
KRUPTD wrote: If you leave the ignition on for 30mins it will override the smartlock and in some cases be able to start the car..Im not too sure about the smartlock light issue.
Thats what I was hoping yesterday avo - didn't happen though. I now have a tow in the morning so diagnosis will continue tomorrow avo when it is back in my driveway. Cheers
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
Well it's home now thanks to one kind soul on my forums, his Pajero was definitely needed to drag it up the hills on the trailer - bloody heavy bugger the ole ED wagon!
Anyway, haven't been able to do much this morning due to the rain (all my work is done in the driveway) but I have been able to get it to *try* and fire. It looks like a timing issue as turning the dizzy slightly each time improves things. However, I have run out of rotation so I'll pop the dizzy out again and try and get it closer. Battery is struggling now too so I'll need to change that... all when it stops bloody raining!!! Cheers RD
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
Well, the piece of crap is still not going. Whats with the I6 distributors, did the same a**hole that decided to put Chevy ones at the back think it was a bloody good idea to hide the friggen distributor under the fuel injection? Brilliant move wanker.....
This SOB just will not reengage into the lay shaft. No matter what I bloody try it decides that it doesn't want to go any further. I am getting so p****d off now I am almost ready to scrap the whole bloody lot!!!!!!!
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| BenJ |
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I hate to suggest this Bruce, but there have been a number of incidents with failed Aux shafts. The Aux shaft drives the dizzy and fuel pump.
I think your best bet is to get the EF engine ready and put it in. BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
BenJ wrote: I hate to suggest this Bruce, but there have been a number of incidents with failed Aux shafts. The Aux shaft drives the dizzy and fuel pump. Hmmm, could well be... I am having one more try to get it fired if only to make it easier to move. Currently is it sitting 2 cars down from my old EA wagon we pulled the engine out of and the EF engine is up there too. I need to get rid of my scrap cars so I can get the ED further up the driveway to facilitate the changeover.
I think your best bet is to get the EF engine ready and put it in. BenJ I just took all the plugs out and ALL of them were soaking wet with fuel which may not be a good sign..... Cheers RD
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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| gogetta |
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BenJ wrote: I hate to suggest this Bruce, but there have been a number of incidents with failed Aux shafts. The Aux shaft drives the dizzy and fuel pump.
I think your best bet is to get the EF engine ready and put it in. BenJ but that is mostly on the AUs isnt it?
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| KRUPTD |
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Remember when refitting the dizzy.You make sure that the rotor is facing the start and then once you have pushed it in it ends on the finish.Also you might have to tap the key while pushing down on the dizzy to get it to go onto the oil pump drive.Easy way to have room is to remove the isc motor.also make sure you dont break the wire on the block near where you are working if it is broken im pretty sure the car wont start or will blow heaps of smoke one or the other.Also make sure you have compression on number one and tha the harmonic balancer lines up with the mark on the timing cover.
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
KRUPTD wrote: Remember when refitting the dizzy.You make sure that the rotor is facing the start and then once you have pushed it in it ends on the finish.Also you might have to tap the key while pushing down on the dizzy to get it to go onto the oil pump drive.Easy way to have room is to remove the isc motor.also make sure you dont break the wire on the block near where you are working if it is broken im pretty sure the car wont start or will blow heaps of smoke one or the other.Also make sure you have compression on number one and tha the harmonic balancer lines up with the mark on the timing cover. Bloody hell, that's what start and finish is for, always wondered that. I have been using the old method of marking the side of the dizzy and guestimating until I get it right. Thanks for the tip on the ISC motor, I might just use that tomorrow.
If you mean that earth type wire that bolts to the block, I have been removing that before working around there and putting it back when attempting to start. Everything else I have been checking and double checking as I go along. Cheers RD
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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