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| IamSteve |
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Mates wanting to get one of these dd 1512.. and he wants to know what would be a good amp to power this. he is a little short on cash about $350ish for amp...the rms is 500 max 1800
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| phongus |
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I reckon a monoblock with an output of at least 800WRMS to give the sub enough power to run properly. But you'll be lucky to find a decent sub pushing 800W RMS at 2 Ohm for under $350...unless he can find a bargain second hand amplifier.
Tell him to save up...waste of a sub if you plan on underpowering it with a crappy amp.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| IamSteve |
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kenwood makes a 900rms amp dont they?
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| phongus |
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Yeah they do, but can you get them for $350? I mean I haven't been in with the audio prices for a while, but 900WRMS for $350 seems a bit cheap for me
 Unless prices have dropped dramatically.I found this on Ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-8104 ... 1e5a5e1d5d $240 shipped to your door, but it has only got an output of 500W RMS which is not enough for that sub...unless you want to run the amp at full ball and ruin the sub by clipping the signal.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| ply-boi |
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and kenwood is crap ....
_________________ My Herrod motorsport/Tickford EL XR6 |
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| TimmyA |
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you run the risk of serious damage to a subwoofer when they are underpowered...
As the sub will never reach its limit it therefore becomes hard to tell where the limit of the amp is... You become more prone to pushing the amp too far and clipping it (running straight DC current through the voice coil) and bye bye voice coil... I have done a lot of stage sound in my youth... always always better to run a slightly overpowered amp, better to overdrive the sub slightly than to under drive it and risk clipping it, they way it was explained to me by blokes who have been in the game for many years was that clipping is by far the worst phenomenon when it comes to sound amplification... I recommend that you definitely don't settle for second best no matter what the cost...
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| jrloz |
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http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0460
IamSteve wrote: the rms is 500 max 1800 Dont worry about the MAX in this case, use RMS as the real indicator. Actually, never worry about MAX.  I dont see why you want to use a 900Rms amp on a sub rated at 500 rms. taking that amp over half way could cause the sub to blow up. |
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| TimmyA |
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that might be a bit too far too...
never ever go on PMPO power ratings... This is a con to make a product look good... It stands for Peak Maximum Power Output... And this rating could be only available for .25 of sec til the amp blows up... Anything with this is basically a had... Always go by RMS (Root Means Squared) as this the most accurate power output of the amp is generally a continuous output...
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| jrloz |
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timmytimtim wrote: continuous output... Continuous output is a bad way to put it i think. Considering current is always changing lol. |
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| TimmyA |
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oh well yeah and varies with voltage governed by the alternator too...
I worked with stage audio and these factors were never a problem with AC supply... But RMS is the number to go by is what I'm trying to say...
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| jrloz |
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Yep lol. We can try and hope that the Alternator keeps it fairly constant though.
Yea it wouldnt be haha, its always at a constant 240 Volts and draws the current it needs lol. But for what we have to use as an indicator RMS is the best thing to go buy. The other thing to note is that a sub can take more power in a sealed enclosure than in a ported one. And if a manufacture says that it can be in a ported enclosure then the RMS is lowed for that type. not a great deal but its still there. Though doubling the power is needed for a 3db increase in output. |
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| phongus |
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jrloz wrote: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0460 IamSteve wrote: the rms is 500 max 1800 Dont worry about the MAX in this case, use RMS as the real indicator. Actually, never worry about MAX. I dont see why you want to use a 900Rms amp on a sub rated at 500 rms. taking that amp over half way could cause the sub to blow up. Better to with a 900wrms amp and running it at 1/3ish gain and give the amp some decent strong "continuous" signal rather than a clipped maxed out amp...also gives you the possibility of upgrading later if required. I have an Audiobahn monoblock which puts out 800Wrms at 2Ohm, running only at 50% gain to power 2 x 250WRMS free-air subs. Seems to work fine without any signal clipping, but enough power for my subs without blowing them up at 50% of it's potential. Not a bad amp, but it does tend to heat up a bit more then other amps. But back to the OP...make sure he gets a decent amp for a decent sub. DD subs are pretty good subs...pointless in buying a good sub without having the right amp to power it.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| jrloz |
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phongus wrote: But back to the OP...make sure he gets a decent amp for a decent sub. DD subs are pretty good subs...pointless in buying a good sub without having the right amp to power it. I agree, that response amp will be more than enough though. phongus wrote: I have an Audiobahn monoblock which puts out 800Wrms at 2Ohm, running only at 50% gain to power 2 x 250WRMS free-air subs Yes but you have to watch the friend "Crank" factor with that sort of set up. |
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| phongus |
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jrloz wrote: phongus wrote: But back to the OP...make sure he gets a decent amp for a decent sub. DD subs are pretty good subs...pointless in buying a good sub without having the right amp to power it. I agree, that response amp will be more than enough though. phongus wrote: I have an Audiobahn monoblock which puts out 800Wrms at 2Ohm, running only at 50% gain to power 2 x 250WRMS free-air subs Yes but you have to watch the friend "Crank" factor with that sort of set up. Sorry I must've missed the post about the Response amp...agreed. What do you mean by the friend crank factor? do you mean by a friend cranking up the volume while I drive? If so that's covered, at max volume the sub won't be over powered by the amp, hence only 50% gain at the amp. Tuned at max volume at the head unit with adjustments made at the amplifier for no distortion at higher head unit volume.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| jrloz |
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phongus wrote: What do you mean by the friend crank factor? do you mean by a friend cranking up the volume while I drive? Yep. phongus wrote: If so that's covered, at max volume the sub won't be over powered by the amp, hence only 50% gain at the amp. Tuned at max volume at the head unit with adjustments made at the amplifier for no distortion at higher head unit volume. The only problem i have with that is that you tuned it at MAX headunit volume, im not sure if your headunit has a setting to stop volume increases at a certain point but most will distort at higher volumes, you would get better sound upping the amp gain and lowering the pre out voltage. |
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