|
| shav |
|
|||
|
Since fitting my heat shield, I have enjoyed lower engine bay temperatures and the car seems a bit more responsive after long drives.
What I would like to do though is improve the intake temperatures a bit more. There is a lot of radiant heat coming off the engine that tends to get absorbed by my stainless steel 3" intake. It does get quite hot. Ive been reading some info on past threads, and other forums about what I can do. Suggestions such as 'stick on heat shield' material to heat resistant paint options. What I would like to know is what would be best to reduce intake temperatures and whats the neatest? Im leaning towards spray painting the intake with the VHT flameproof heat resistant paint. It will take the longest to prepare but will look the neatest. The other option is to go a stick on heat shield, but wont look as good but will be quicker to fit. Any thoughts on this idea or any other alternatives you could offer?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
im suffering a similar issue with the alloy intake pipe.. i did try wrap it with exhaust wrap and it helped with the heat soak of the alloy but the issue was , while alloy heats up quick it also cools down quick..
with the heat wrap on the intake it took longer to get high intake temps but once it got hot it was taking longer to cool as the heat wrap was now keepng heat in the pipe... im thinking about ceramic coating the intake pipe.. i havnt got a price yet but i assume it is expensive.. the best thing is obviously intercooling but the price is a bit high..ive already gone way over budget on mine.. so for now im also looking at cheap and moderatly effective methods.... |
||
| Top | |
||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
I wouldnt have thought there would be much advantage trying to cool the intake pipe after a supercharger. at best you might see a couple of degrees difference on the actual pipe but in the scheme of things the increased air temperature would be very little.
Have you thought of water/methanol injection? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: im suffering a similar issue with the alloy intake pipe.. i did try wrap it with exhaust wrap and it helped with the heat soak of the alloy but the issue was , while alloy heats up quick it also cools down quick.. with the heat wrap on the intake it took longer to get high intake temps but once it got hot it was taking longer to cool as the heat wrap was now keepng heat in the pipe... im thinking about ceramic coating the intake pipe.. i havnt got a price yet but i assume it is expensive.. the best thing is obviously intercooling but the price is a bit high..ive already gone way over budget on mine.. so for now im also looking at cheap and moderatly effective methods.... Sounds good Troy. Perhaps the paint method is the cheapest most effective way of handling the problem. What about stick on heat wrap or perhaps the perforated, bendable heat shield that allows air flow?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
MADXF wrote: I wouldnt have thought there would be much advantage trying to cool the intake pipe after a supercharger. at best you might see a couple of degrees difference on the actual pipe but in the scheme of things the increased air temperature would be very little. Have you thought of water/methanol injection? You reckon this is due to the air heating up due to being compressed so much? Do you think that it wouldnt make any difference due to that?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
im assuming shav means the intake from the supercharger to throttle body?
i know in my case the intake temps with constant cruising are around 40 deg c, but once boosting a few times in a short time the air temps rise up near 90 deg c but return fairly quickly back to 40 deg,, but if the car has been stuck in traffic the heat soak holds temps around 70 deg c and stay around that untill a constant flow of air is run through... |
||
| Top | |
||
| shav |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: im assuming shav means the intake from the supercharger to throttle body? i know in my case the intake temps with constant cruising are around 40 deg c, but once boosting a few times in a short time the air temps rise up near 90 deg c but return fairly quickly back to 40 deg,, but if the car has been stuck in traffic the heat soak holds temps around 70 deg c and stay around that untill a constant flow of air is run through... Thats right TROY I mean the intake pipe from the s/c to the TB. The one that goes over the engine itself. And I know what you mean with the temps hitting high after a few squirts of the throttle. What Id like to do is keep the temps to 40degs at any given time as much as possible.
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: im assuming shav means the intake from the supercharger to throttle body? i know in my case the intake temps with constant cruising are around 40 deg c, but once boosting a few times in a short time the air temps rise up near 90 deg c but return fairly quickly back to 40 deg,, but if the car has been stuck in traffic the heat soak holds temps around 70 deg c and stay around that untill a constant flow of air is run through... I was referring to the same pipe. That's a decent increase. Its the boosting temp that I was referring too in my first post saying the pipe wouldnt make a lot of difference. How do your intake temps go if you start boosting from 70deg? I'd suggest that stop start temperature rise was more from the intake manifold and possibly the supercharger inlet (assuming its not boxed) not the pipe from S/C to T/B. The material of the pipe is so thin it wouldnt actually hold a lot of heat. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
i think the only reall way this can be acheived at the moment is intercooling..
but i like to think outside box..  its just hot outside the box ..lol..
|
||
| Top | |
||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
Agreed, the only way to maintain temps of around 40 would be with an external system.
Intercooling or water/meth injection. BTW, heat resistant paint doesnt keep heat out, it only means it can survive high temps without bubbling/melting. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
MADXF wrote: TROYMAN wrote: im assuming shav means the intake from the supercharger to throttle body? i know in my case the intake temps with constant cruising are around 40 deg c, but once boosting a few times in a short time the air temps rise up near 90 deg c but return fairly quickly back to 40 deg,, but if the car has been stuck in traffic the heat soak holds temps around 70 deg c and stay around that untill a constant flow of air is run through... I was referring to the same pipe. That's a decent increase. Its the boosting temp that I was referring too in my first post saying the pipe wouldnt make a lot of difference. How do your intake temps go if you start boosting from 70deg? I'd suggest that stop start temperature rise was more from the intake manifold and possibly the supercharger inlet (assuming its not boxed) not the pipe from S/C to T/B. The material of the pipe is so thin it wouldnt actually hold a lot of heat. in my case.. the car was dyno tuned 2 weeks ago and the ambient temp outside was 38-40 deg, after an hour or so on the dyno the intake temp was around 65 deg and under full throttle and boost it went up to 96 deg c and it still made 200rwkw..lol.. most of the instantanious heat is from boost if the intake temps could stay around the 40 deg mark it would make a huge difference.. |
||
| Top | |
||
| shav |
|
|||
|
MADXF wrote: Agreed, the only way to maintain temps of around 40 would be with an external system. Intercooling or water/meth injection. BTW, heat resistant paint doesnt keep heat out, it only means it can survive high temps without bubbling/melting. Hmm I thought it supposed to keep radiant heat out. Well thats what they claim. I wont bother if its not going to do anything. Whats a basic water injection system gonna cost?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
Looks like capa have a kit for $500, but knowing their reputation for price, I'd say you could find one much cheaper.
If its the VHT 'flameproof' paint then I'm almost certain that it does nothing to keeping heat out. here's a quote from the speco website: "VHT Flameproof Coatings are a matte finish, ceramic base silicone designed specifically for automotive headers and exhaust systems. They allow heat and moisture to pass through the metal and coating to prevent rust from forming. No primer is required before applying. Rated to 1500ºF (815ºC)." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
MADXF wrote: Looks like capa have a kit for $500, but knowing their reputation for price, I'd say you could find one much cheaper. If its the VHT 'flameproof' paint then I'm almost certain that it does nothing to keeping heat out. here's a quote from the speco website: "VHT Flameproof Coatings are a matte finish, ceramic base silicone designed specifically for automotive headers and exhaust systems. They allow heat and moisture to pass through the metal and coating to prevent rust from forming. No primer is required before applying. Rated to 1500ºF (815ºC)." ah yeah I see. I guess its more of a rust proofer than anything else. What about the stick on heat shield material? Under the same umbrella?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
My understanding is that the wrap stuff is quite good at keeping heat in headers and reducing under bonnet temps.
I've seen some people use it on pipes from turbos and super chargers. I dont know how well it works in those cases. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Majestic-12 [Bot] and 9 guests |
