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HID headlights 

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:44 pm 
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Here's what my kit looked like.

Just had the H4 globes ... with the High/low switch box as well ... and the added relays to boot.

Image

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:51 pm 
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Here's the box they came in
Image

And this what my globe looks like
Image

EDIT: Damn pics won't come through

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:53 pm 
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Xenon bulbs are not like the Halogen ones.
Look at the difference between a H1 and H3 Halogen . BIG difference.
But if you look at the previous picture you will see that all bulb sizes are almost the same, which makes Xenon bulbs give more or less the same amount of light.
Don’t worry H1 will do fine.

Regarding adjustment of the headlight assy.
Unfortunately if you have lowered the beam as much as it goes and you still think it is too high, it is probably because of the design and the angel and the front opening of the headlight (glass) it self that you get this effect.

Have fun,
mavs19
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Last edited by mavs19 on Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:59 pm 
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Try again sending the pics.
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mavs19

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 8:04 pm 
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hey mavs19

should i mount my ballast away from the fuel lines? will this cause intereferance and maybe a spark of some means??

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 8:12 pm 
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Hi ReGiE,
I would suggest that you mount both of them to the wall or at least earth both boxes.
The problem with electrical devices and fuel is an obvious one.
You should NEVER take any silly risks with the safety of your vehicle, yourself or others.
I know that drilling in the body of a vehicle is a mortal sin, but in this case it is allowed.
The unit gets warm and also it is discharging high electrical pulses to the bulbs.
So why take a risk???

Also if anyone has interference in their Radio/CB/Data/Mobile etc. try to install a Resistor to each box and earth it. Go to any electrical shop and buy 2, one for each unit.
Have fun,
mavs19

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 8:28 pm 
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thanks for that

i will get some earthing straps from work :) and put them in

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 8:28 pm 
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OK ... try this.
That's what the H4 HID high/low looks like
Image

Similar box
Image

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 8:48 pm 
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Hi Mechan1k,

OK, Explain what you have done, how you have done it and what happens.



ReGiE,

If you are going to leave the boxes where they are, maybe you could install a metal plate of some kind between the box and the fuel line, it would be much safer.

Have fun,
mavs19

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:01 pm 
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A mate of mine who is an auto electrician has hooked these up.

Now the switching from Low/High was working for a short time after they were installed. They are working correctly on a CE Lancer. Then after a short time on my Falcon they stayed on low beam.

[I am just referring to my outer H4 lights for now]

Now I was told the Falcon utilises a positive switched circuit (whereas the Mitsu doesn't) ... my friend tested one side with a Halogen globe plugged back into the socket ... but the HID unit hooked up on the driver's side .... I was able to flick it up onto highbeam with both the halogen and HID.

Changed it back to HID on both sides ... and it stayed on low beam (when trying to flick up onto high) ... I tested it again with the other side with one halogen globe in place ... and HID in place as well ... and the switch from low to high and back again worked.

I am presuming it might be due to the halogen globe producing 60w on low beam ... whereas the HID globe produces 35w ... it may be a load related issue.

Maybe another relay is needed in the circuit ... but I am not 100% sure.

Might take it back to him to have another look ... or take it to another auto electrician and see what they can find.

I wish I could explain it better as I am not that technically minded when it coems to wiring and electricity.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:21 pm 
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Mechan1k

I too wished you could have explained it a bit better.
So here is what I can advise you based on what youi have told me.
The first rule of finding Electrical faults on a vehicle is: The deduction rule.
First of all, try to see if the HID kit works OK with another vehicle.
Looking at the wiring on the kit it look very simple and easy to connect to a vehicle.
If it works, then at least you know that there is nothing wrong with the Kit.
The Discharge unit is very sensitive to correct polarity.
If the kit does not work, well take it back for exchange.
Check and double check all the connectors, wiring and if the right cable is connected to the right place.
Make sure that everything is properly earthed.
Make sure that no live wire is squeezed and the is not earthed where they should not be.
The next thing to do is to look at the polarity of the HiLo switch and if it works perfectly or not.
Use a 12 volt testing pen to make sure that the electrical circuit is OK and not broken and if possible test all the wiring for continuity.

A Xenon HID kit should bot work the way you have explained.
If you install the bulb and its discharge box in a reflector, there is no way you should have room for another H4 bulb. Nor is there any connectors left to be used for testing a separate bulb.

I would love to see either a hand drawing or pictures of how you have connected the kit and all the relevant wiring etc.
It will be much easier to see at least if the connections are correct.

Remember the discharge unit is very sensitive to correct polarity.

Have fun,
mavs19

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:22 pm 
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mavs19 wrote:
ReGiE,

If you are going to leave the boxes where they are, maybe you could install a metal plate of some kind between the box and the fuel line, it would be much safer.

Have fun,
mavs19


Might be best to do what i did ... mount the ballasts to the internal walls of the engine bay (I removed my airbox and the battery) to mount them against the metal on the enginebay skin ... and make sure you have a good earth as well.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:51 pm 
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Ride: Territory TX AWD & AUII XLS EGAS

Location: East Kurrajong
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I think it might be a polarity issue.

The way the plugs are connected can only be one way ... you can't plug the cables the wrong way around in the loom at all.

None of the cabling is pinched at all ... i have checked that.

I have it earthed well ... if the earth was dodgy the light doesn't come on at all.

I have tested the H4 Halogen in my hand with the factory 3-prong plug in the back of it (gets a little warm though ... hee hee.

The system utilises the factory harness as a signal to switch it on and off ... high and low (including the hi/low box too).

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 5:46 pm 
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Hi guys,

Could this be a good ALTERNATIVE TO HIDs?

Want to get great illumination without extra heat, wiring upgrades, relays, transformers, and blue tint?
Want to SEE better at night instead of HEARING a bunch of dubious chatter about xenon-filled, over-wattage, blue-tinted bling-bling bulbs that are supposedly "just like HIDs"?
Want a bulb that's a simple, direct swap into the socket and maintains the correct filament placement for a perfect light pattern, instead of causing glare and scattered, diffused light?
Want to save hundreds of dollars over the cost of retrofitting an HID system?

Then you want these Halogen Infrared Reflecting bulbs.

These are a unique product, the only bulbs available that use the research technology that General Electric patented in 2000 .
It was GE's goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost. GE sells HIR bulbs for residential lighting and specialized projectors, but decided to stay out of the automotive market and licensed this technology to a division of Toshiba. In fact, Toshiba and GE are among the few companies in the world with the expertise to engineer and build this product.
These bulbs attain light levels 75% to 110% brighter than stock as a result of an engineering process that deposits multiple, yet almost invisible, layers of semi-reflective coating on the surface of a specially shaped quartz bulb.
This coating ( a titania/silica, zinc oxide/silica, zirconia/silica, silicon nitride/silica, and titania/magnesium fluoride tantalam/silica multi-layer dielectric, according to the patent) reflects a portion of the infrared energy emitted by the filament back onto the filament, causing it to glow brighter and emit more light from the uncoated forward portion of the bulb.

Although the filament gets hotter, the glass does not. IT GENERATES NO MORE HEAT THAN A REGULAR HALOGEN BULB, AND IT DRAWS THE SAME WATTAGE AND AMPERAGE AS THE STOCK 9006 BULB IT REPLACES .

Informal testing shows the GE spec figures to be conservative.

The HIR 9012 bulb recorded a light intensity of 350! That's 75% brighter than stock, nearly double the light output, at the same power draw. The comparison between a 9005 high beam and an HIR 9011 high beam was even more impressive, 300 versus 650 on the metre, for a 116% improvement over stock.

These bulbs produce white light, rated at 3600 Kelvin color temp, slightly whiter than the 3250K stock halogen bulbs.
They do not attempt to imitate the bluish appearance of HID, or Xenon) bulbs.
The blue halo of real HIDs comes from the high voltage arc of energy between electrodes, which emits a minor amount of long-wave UV light.
Putting blue coating on a regular bulb reduces light output.

Since they match OEM stock wattage, there is never a problem in cars that have computer monitors for the lighting circuits.
You won't get false "headlight failure" messages, which can happen with other over-wattage bulbs.

These bulbs have been sold to BMW owners overseas over the last 6 months, and no problems have been reported (and there's been 100% positive feedback).

If your headlights are maintained and aligned properly, there are no glare issues with these lights.
You get a lot more light, but it's still aimed where it should be.
The position of the filament in the housing is identical to stock, so the reflectors work exactly as they were designed- JUST MUCH BETTER AND BRIGHTER.

It is a fact that The f@rt you can see, the faster you can safely drive.
All the horsepower in the world won't do you any good if you can't see the road ahead.

These HIR bulbs give you 49 percent more light from your high beam units and 88 percent more from your low beams. If your high beams are wired to stay on with your low beams, you can realize a grand total of 137 percent more light.
They cost US$29.95 per bulb in the US.

Note: These bulbs are identical in virtually every regard to 9005 and 9006 bulbs. There are extremely minor differences in the shape of the mounting flanges. However, a few minutes work with a file or Dremel tool will greatly enhance the usefulness of these bulbs with regard to those cars which might not, strictly speaking, have been designed with these exact bulbs in mind. In fact, it's amazing how simple and easy it is to remove a few square millimeters of soft plastic. Five minutes, tops, and then these bulbs will fit in any car that takes 9005 and 9006 bulbs.

Presently they ONLY manufacture HIR 9012 which can replace a stock 9006/ HB4 bulb and HIR 9011 which can replace a stock 9005/ HB3 bulb.

I still have not found anyone in AU inporting or retailing these bulbs.

Have fun,
mavs19

 

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 5:16 pm 
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Mavs.. always able to shine some light on this topic! Just curious to know if you're in the industry :)

 

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