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| sin2k8 |
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I have an issue with my wheel nuts, they wont come off. I used a ratchet first, and broke it, then a wheel spanner, and bent that, then tried a rattle gun, and that didnt work. Is there something else i should try?
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| EF_96_XR |
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Is this on your au?? if not what sort of car is it? left hand threads maybey?? lol
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| Esteven8 |
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Gas Axe?
 Maybe take it to a tyre place and see if they can help you?
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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| snap0964 |
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Try spraying the nuts with Rostoff or similar and let them sit for a while - do this a few times, hopefully some will soak into the threads and the taper.
Rattle gun is probably your best bet - ensure it's a single hex fitting, can you up the air pressure on the gun ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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my dads a old tyre fitter and what most likely has happened here is u or who ever fitted the tyres didnt put some grease on the threads and they have rusted shut now to fix this u will need something incredibly strong (dad uses a steel wheel spanner or a breaker bar with the proper socket) and some WD40 first soak the nuts in WD40 then instead of applying constant pressure u need to apply strong short bursts (u will need to apply the hand break as its possible for dad anyway to break parts of the gear box this way) as u start to get somewhere make sure to apply more WD40 otherwise it will cease again once u have them off soak the inside of the nuts in WD40 then clean then with a dry rag do the same for the threads then make sure to apply some grease (u will want a really thick grease one that can have a big blob on ur finger and its capable of staying on it when held upside down its usually a really dark blue)
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| sin2k8 |
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well, i got half the wheel nuts off, but with great difficulty, and soaked em, then resoaked, then re-resoaked them, lol, with no success. Ill buy another wheel spanner tomorrow, one that is a single piece, so it cant just bend at a hinge this time, lol. Thanks for the advice guys
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| asizzy |
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Fordsrule174 wrote: then make sure to apply some grease (u will want a really thick grease one that can have a big blob on ur finger and its capable of staying on it when held upside down its usually a really dark blue) Reads post title once more...................  Ohhh...........I thought were talking about something else for a second there...... 
_________________ AsIzZy |
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| OZBMX |
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EF_96_XR wrote: Is this on your au?? if not what sort of car is it? left hand threads maybey?? lol Yeah be wary of this, more so on euro cars than aus and us but still. otherwise as above, plenty of wd40 etc. p.s. what sort of rattle gun/compressor?, and was the setting adjusted right. At work the rattle gun wasn't suitable for doing wheel nuts to be honest, well more so I suspect the warn out f**k compressor. f**k tosser, What is it with people thinking supercheaps gear is good enough for trade for f**k sake. I've given up on it becoming a bit of an enthusiast, let alone if I was trying to make money off it.   
_________________ Signature removed by moderator.signature must not exceed 120x500 pixles |
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| madmax |
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I always use a breaker bar to loosen over tight wheel nuts, much more leverage than any wheel brace
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| sin2k8 |
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I wouldnt even have a clue how to set up a rattle gun, and the compressor was about 20 years old. It all worked and everything, i dont know what sorta pressure it had though, it seemed to have quite a lot but
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| phongus |
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I used a T-bar, 1.5m pole on the end of T-bar, right socket on the end of a wheel nut long socket. Bent the T-bar but the nut came off after giving the lever pole a good wack.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| TimmyA |
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Old man is mechanic... Other thing that causes it is lazy tire places rattle them on...
He has a 1m long breaker bar... Plus a thick walled piece of pipe to add a bit more length... then he jumps up and down on it... sometimes this only just works... rattle guns do nuts up tight... Never use them for wheel nuts myself... Esp lock nuts (easier to round off as the key's aren't hardened)... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| blacksabbath189 |
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put the socket on the nut with an extension attached and give it a few firm hits with a hammer. If threads are rusty, it will loosen it up. Works every time.
_________________ Slavery, gets s**t done! |
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| madmax |
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TimmyA wrote: Old man is mechanic... Other thing that causes it is lazy tire places rattle them on... He has a 1m long breaker bar... Plus a thick walled piece of pipe to add a bit more length... then he jumps up and down on it... sometimes this only just works... rattle guns do nuts up tight... Never use them for wheel nuts myself... Esp lock nuts (easier to round off as the key's aren't hardened)... Cheers, Tim Never come across a type place that doesn't use a rattle gun.
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| TimmyA |
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most now just rattle them on and then check and tension with a breaker bar or torque wrench... They do here anyway...
Other option is those limiters for the rattle guns... But I'm unsure how well they work? Just the extension bar that goes thin in the middle so when the tension becomes so great the bar twists instead of the nut... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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