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| nannas_ed |
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I've gone and ripped the motor out of the XR and am wanting to paint the block. ATM ive degreased it and hit it with the pressure washer. Ive then gone and scrubbed it as hard as i can with the wire brush which got all of the loose flakey bits off but am still stuck with the orange rusty surface.
my question is will this be all right to paint over or am i better off attacking it with some "Kill Rust" and then hitting it with a high temp primer before laying down some colour. cheers
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I've gone and ripped the motor out of the XR and am wanting to paint the block. ATM ive degreased it and hit it with the pressure washer. Ive then gone and scrubbed it as hard as i can with the wire brush which got all of the loose flakey bits off but am still stuck with the orange rusty surface. my question is will this be all right to paint over or am i better off attacking it with some "Kill Rust" and then hitting it with a high temp primer before laying down some colour. cheers changed the welsh plugs?as ford didnt paint the blocks -t*************ss $$$$$$$$ mongrels,i and my engine builder just use the high temp paint-straight on\no primer,2 coats,i used black.let it dry off and 2nd coat,it will bake on after,do you have a colour theme in mind?
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I've gone and ripped the motor out of the XR and am wanting to paint the block. ATM ive degreased it and hit it with the pressure washer. Ive then gone and scrubbed it as hard as i can with the wire brush which got all of the loose flakey bits off but am still stuck with the orange rusty surface. my question is will this be all right to paint over or am i better off attacking it with some "Kill Rust" and then hitting it with a high temp primer before laying down some colour. cheers changed the welsh plugs?as ford didnt paint the blocks -t*************ss $$$$$$$$ mongrels,i and my engine builder just use the high temp paint-straight on\no primer,2 coats,i used black.let it dry off and 2nd coat,it will bake on after,do you have a colour theme in mind? dead set no primer! yeh im wanting to paint it gloss black. ive already bought 2 cans of the VHT hitemp paint but wanted to prep the block properly as i dont want it flaking off. mo i havnt changed the welsh plugs. they look ok so i was gonna leave em.
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| XH5LWEPN |
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Yep, we paint all our engines with VHT engine enamel in gloss black.
Nothing you can do about the rusty surface, it doesnt effect the paint in anyway so dont be shy, just give it a couple of coats. Give it one decent one, let it dry for a day, then give it another.
_________________ STREETBUILT RACING |
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| xafalcon |
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If your frost plugs are steel, it is a very good idea (as Hans suggested) to change them to brass while the engine is out. A $15 investment that ensures no problems for many years to come. With steel plugs you never know how much they have corroded until they leak. Then it's a difficult job to change them in the car.
The instructions on the VHT engine enamel cans we get over in NZ (they are packed in USA) say the maximum time between coats is 1 hour. Maybe in Australia there is a different paint formulation (there was here until 9 months ago where bulk paint was shipped to NZ then packed locally into spray cans) with different instructions? But it may be a good idea to check the instructions on the can just in case. You don't want any adhesion problems caused by not following manufacturers instructions.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| rainoffire |
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I painted the block black in my XR6 also, i used the black VHT engine enamel, and it says on the can to use VHT engine enamel primer, they had it down at my local autobarn so i gave it two coats of undercoat and two of black. It looks awesome, but i havent had then engine running yet, so i cant be sure how well it will stick. Also, i had my block chemically cleaned, but it STILL had that rust on the other surfaces! So i cant see you being able to get it off easily
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| Vic |
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I didn't use primer when painting the heads on my motor, turned out fine. ( Picture in my gallery )
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| XRfairmont67 |
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u can remove the surface rust with a cupped wire brush on a drill, there are heaps of different sizes available from bunnings etc, cheap too..
otherwise try steel wool and rust convertor then wash and dry well. make sure all surfaces getting painted are super clean and scuffed,(steel wool or scotchbrite pads) to help the paint adhere. most engine enamels do not require primer and some of the better brands have primer mixed into the paint. i would recommend primer if u want a show finish paint job, deburr the block, polish out casting marks etc etc, use 2-3 coats of primer rub back and the do your 2 or 3top coats. |
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| cjh |
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I used a pink degreaser, will eat the skin off your hands, ( Motorguard HD degreaser) to clean the side of engine blocks, before painting.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If your frost plugs are steel, it is a very good idea (as Hans suggested) to change them to brass while the engine is out. A $15 investment that ensures no problems for many years to come. With steel plugs you never know how much they have corroded until they leak. Then it's a difficult job to change them in the car. True, it would be stupid not to change them whilst its sitting there on the stand. {USERNAME} wrote: The instructions on the VHT engine enamel cans we get over in NZ (they are packed in USA) say the maximum time between coats is 1 hour. Maybe in Australia there is a different paint formulation (there was here until 9 months ago where bulk paint was shipped to NZ then packed locally into spray cans) with different instructions? But it may be a good idea to check the instructions on the can just in case. You don't want any adhesion problems caused by not following manufacturers instructions. yes, that's what it says on the back of the can i bought too. spray a light coat on, wait 10min before applying another coat. it also said to use the vht primer (iirc the p/n - sp148) i bought a can of that which i have used on other parts in which ive already painted.
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: u can remove the surface rust with a cupped wire brush on a drill, there are heaps of different sizes available from bunnings etc, cheap too.. otherwise try steel wool and rust convertor then wash and dry well. make sure all surfaces getting painted are super clean and scuffed,(steel wool or scotchbrite pads) to help the paint adhere. most engine enamels do not require primer and some of the better brands have primer mixed into the paint. i would recommend primer if u want a show finish paint job, deburr the block, polish out casting marks etc etc, use 2-3 coats of primer rub back and the do your 2 or 3top coats. ive done my best to scrub the block with a wire brush but its to bog to get right in the corners. ill see if i can find a tiny wire brush which will get in there. so basically ive just got to get the big stuff off make sure its clean then im good to spray. the engine bay will be very clean once im finished, in the sense that most if not all parts will be painted or polished but for now its just a big tidy up rather than a full show type detail
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| krisisdog |
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I've just sprayed my block, hit it with degreaser, wire brush on the drill and then blasted it with the air gun on the compressor. Came up good
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| Shifteh |
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Quote: I used a pink degreaser, will eat the skin off your hands, ( Motorguard HD degreaser) to clean the side of engine blocks, before painting. Lol i found that out too, i was using degreaser consentrate to clean my hands because i couldant be stuffed watering it down and i went and played a few pc games and my hands felt weird like tight, had a look and all the skin was really tight over the bones lol so i went and rehydrated them in the sink LOlz
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Quote: I used a pink degreaser, will eat the skin off your hands, ( Motorguard HD degreaser) to clean the side of engine blocks, before painting. Lol i found that out too, i was using degreaser consentrate to clean my hands because i couldant be stuffed watering it down and i went and played a few pc games and my hands felt weird like tight, had a look and all the skin was really tight over the bones lol so i went and rehydrated them in the sink LOlz super clean and nails too -------girls pay BIG BUCKS FOR THAT 
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If your frost plugs are steel, it is a very good idea (as Hans suggested) to change them to brass while the engine is out. A $15 investment that ensures no problems for many years to come. With steel plugs you never know how much they have corroded until they leak. Then it's a difficult job to change them in the car. So should i only change the 7-8 plugs on the side of the block or do i change the one at the rear of the motor as well. cheers
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