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| schnoods |
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G'day guys.
I have a EF XR8 which I have just recently supercharged, now I am contemplating the next step. It made 307 rwhp with a vortech (non intercooled) on 8psi and now i am after more, particularly down low with more right up high. The motor is unopened bar a Ported cobra manifold. At the moment its running standard e7 heads, ho cam and rocker gear (ie crap). Now what i'm looking at is a set of heads and cam for it. I am tossing up a set of GT40p's or stepping up to AFR heads. Cam will probably be a 2031. I have been told a stock block will handle near on 400 rwhp before you are pushing your luck. So saying that... 1. If I do decide to go the Alloy Heads, with the same 8psi going through will it make over 400rwhp? 2. If something did let go, will the heads, roller rockers, pushrods be salvagable? 3. Will gt40p's get the 400rwhp mark without major port work or bumping up comp? 4. Is there anything else I have over looked? The motor has had 138,000 on the clock, is driven 3 or 4 days a week (I have a daily but the ef is too much fun). The car is an Auto running 3.23 rear end as the blower likes tall gearing and has a good top end surge. Upping the boost to 10 or more psi isnt an option for me, unless i do something about the belt setup as slippage is an issue now, and will be more so with more boost. Anyone with ideas or input would be much appreciated. Would also like to here from Blown AU owners, as they would have a similar set up. Cheers
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| svo_matt |
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hey mate i have about the same (standard moter) running the vortech making 365rwhp and i spoke to my mechanic about the gt40p heads and alot more and its really not worth speanding about 6000 to make the 400wrhp mark your better to stroke it.........well thats what im going to do
_________________ ..My fake plant died because I forgot to pretend to water it.. |
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| schnoods |
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Saying that, I may have to go the whole hog, maybe aftermarket block if I were to go the stroker route.
For a set of heads (gt40), roller rockers (1.72), cam and headstuds it would be around 2 grand. getting it fitted and retuned would be near on another 2-3 grand conservatively. I'd be happy with 400 rwhp, anymore and its strictly a sunday (or Whoopass wednesday) driver only...
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| svo_matt |
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well thats all mine it a weekend car but i now want about 600rwhp i just want to lift a wheel down the 1/4 mile
_________________ ..My fake plant died because I forgot to pretend to water it.. |
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| TerroristGHIA |
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If you were to push it and the motor did grenade, they usually split down the middle, so the heads and rockers would be recoverable. Personally i would ga aftermarket block, I am doing something similar, but be aware it isnt cheap. I have spent 14odd grand so far, and will need another 8-10 to get the motor ready to go into the car, then there will be box/diff issues which will raise there head not long after.
Cheers Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| gogetta |
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brett, is that the 7.0 in your signature...
can the windsor go that large???
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| xr8ute |
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Why do you say the blower "likes the tall gearing"? Its not a turbo, it doesn't rely on engine load, it just wants RPM.......it will respond to short gearing more than it will tall gearing (although your tyres may not like this).
I would seriously consider some shorter diff gears. 3.9's would be great with the auto, and aren't as bad for highway economy as you might imagine. What have you changed of the fuel system? I notice your running an 80mm OEM Maurauder MAF, but what about injectors, fuel pump... You may find yourself pegging that MAF after the next lot of mods as well. You will make enough power with an S-Trim and GT40 heads to split the std block, so if you find some for cheap enough, then I say go for it. A quality water to air intercooler setup would be of value as well. Will let you run more boost and keep a decent ignition advance... I would expect you could get a fair bit more power out of the current combo before needing to change to bigger heads. |
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| schnoods |
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Im running a walbro 255 fuel pump, high flowed 24lb injectors (rated at around 29-30 lbs).Im hoping that it will be still ok for up to 400, though a 90mm lightning would be better, still keeping an eye out. Ignition is beefed up too, so no spark blow out either.
Gearing wise although I am cruising around a fair bit, on the strip after 2500 rpm it really gets up and goes, it carries it on to 2nd really well, the surge is great with it, I am assuming (I know its dangerous) that the breathing is letting it down. I am considering gears as the 3.23's are a little bit lethargic, but thats something I want to do after, perhaps when im chasing better times. Gearbox has just been recently done and beefed up too, I reckon a set of heads and the rest would go on before i touch the rear, gears will be done then so its a 2 birds with one stone type of arrangemment.
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| xr8ute |
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That fuel system sounds OK. I think the injectors might hold you back before the MAF becomes a real problem though.....unless you are running an FMU or higher rail pressure? Are they EV1 or EV6 injectors?
Changing from 3.45 to 3.91 is one of the best mods I made on my ute, for both the street and the track. The improvement in acceleration at all points is awesome. I cant help you with belt slip, as im not running a blower yet. Have you had a read through the blower forums on the Corral? Search through the old threads if you havent already, http://corral.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=311 |
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| schnoods |
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Yeah running a rising rate reg and the injectors are ford motorsport blue tops.
Decisions, decisions.
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| Timmeh |
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schnoods I would go to Tony at Hi Tech Cylinder Heads and ask him his recommendations.
He can give you a good idea of costs and what your after budget wise. |
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| ddoth |
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Is that the guy in malaga Timmeh ?
If so, he is great. Good bloke to talk to as well 
_________________ Old car burnt.
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| Priestly007 |
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Ive got the 3.9 gears in my auto, admittedly its a turbo but its one of the best mods ive done.....
_________________ EF ECTIV |
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| EBXR8380 |
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3.9 gears esp with auto....
The issue with Ford heads is there sealing with forced induction... I'd go for alloy heads and Cometic gaskets and ARP bolts or better still head studs... You are better off fitting 42Lb injectors and calibrated maf... If you have no edit facility.. The more boost you run the more advance needs to be pegged.. So again either some sort of boost retard ignition box from MSD... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku You can go so far with little tune..But go that bit further chasing power and all sorts of variables come into play... Trust me.... Fit colder plugs also on forced induction... One range colder per 100 h.p.. Or if compression is lowered this may not come into play?? GGoing with stroker ?? To chase power... You STILL need heads to flow power.. If your still using std block.. Some alloy heads, Crane 2030 / 2031 or similar..Keep rpm within 6000 rpm and it should hold together.. Keep tune fat and it'll live... Detonation kills high performance engine...Alloy heads are less prone to detonation and there decks are generally thicker than std Ford heads.. With high power levels they can lift off block causing head gasket issues...Usually bought about by detonation tho...
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| schnoods |
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{USERNAME} wrote: 3.9 gears esp with auto....
The issue with Ford heads is there sealing with forced induction... I'd go for alloy heads and Cometic gaskets and ARP bolts or better still head studs... You are better off fitting 42Lb injectors and calibrated maf... If you have no edit facility.. The more boost you run the more advance needs to be pegged.. So again either some sort of boost retard ignition box from MSD... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku You can go so far with little tune..But go that bit further chasing power and all sorts of variables come into play... Trust me.... Fit colder plugs also on forced induction... One range colder per 100 h.p.. Or if compression is lowered this may not come into play?? GGoing with stroker ?? To chase power... You STILL need heads to flow power.. If your still using std block.. Some alloy heads, Crane 2030 / 2031 or similar..Keep rpm within 6000 rpm and it should hold together.. Keep tune fat and it'll live... Detonation kills high performance engine...Alloy heads are less prone to detonation and there decks are generally thicker than std Ford heads.. With high power levels they can lift off block causing head gasket issues...Usually bought about by detonation tho... I am using a Capa eliminator chip at the moment, seems to be holding up well. The AFR's seem to be pretty good at the moment, pretty flat and it drops down to about 12-11.8 at about 5700rpm. I have fitted colder plugs too, but I have no intention now of stepping up past 8psi at the moment. I dont plan to go for a stroker anytime soon either, if I do ,I would be stepping up aftermarket block and doing it all from scratch properly. I think the plan Maybe diff gears first 3.9 and then see how far I wanna go power wise, I think a set of alloys will be the go though, Just seems to be the easier route to go (though not the cheaper) with many proven results too. If the motor lets go, then I will consider a stroker or maybe just shift it onto another block. I may look for some sort of intercooling when I work out how to fit it in and how it will work (water-air). Just bugger all room underthere too. I'd consider water injection (water/meth) but it just seems like a bandaid solution and I dont want to see it hydraulic lock one day....
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