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Auto to Manual Conversion Guide 

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:50 am 
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You need to put up the bat signal (a PM). :)

Firstly, I think this is a BAD idea. Disabling the cruise control on clutch in, is a safety mechanism, in case of emergency. The clutch switch and brake light switch are design to disable cruise so the car won't try and run off with you should something bad happen.

Secondly, I'll help to answer you're questions...

#1 Replicate the 120ohm switch and just splice it into the wiring coming from the clock spring. Easy.

#2 I feel (as the clutch pedal deactivate is a safety feature) it may use the brake fail safety input on the CC unit. I don't have my wiring diagrams at hand (being at work), but I'd check that out.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:53 am 
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BAD idea? What, from me? Never.

I see your point tho... And I could just rig up another brake switch to the clutch pedal easy enough and put it on the same circuit as the brake pedal works by cutting power...

Uhm - Am damn sure the original clutch switch doesn't do the same thing as the brake tho... Anyway, car isn't back from panel shop yet, and I still have to pick up a clutch cable, a couple of pins and some other bits and pieces...

Help Data, help...... Image

Last edited by fiend on Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:16 pm 
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Got my wiring diagrams out (for an EL).

The B (Black) and OY (Orange/Yellow Stripe) wires go from the clock spring all the way through to the CC module. They carry the button signals - which you've already got figured out above.

The brake fail safe signal comes into the CC unit on a X (Light Green) wire. The clutch fail safe comes into the CC on a GW (Green/White Stripe) wire. For auto's this switch is simply short circuited.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:45 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Okay, thanks.

*One further question---
What colours wires are coming out the brake booster and is it the same circuit to the factory clutch (12+ all the time, 0 when brake engaged?)


Interesting that for auto's it is short circuited, as this would mean it is opening a circuit on clutch application (similar to the brake booster...)?

I can't see anywhere on the list of inputs to the Cruise Controller for another closed > open circuit, so guess the circuit (and colour wires) you mention (above) are actually the same for the clutch pedal and the brake booster?

WHY then does it also use a 12+ on the brake application (brake bulb activation) as well as a separate source for brake booster? Maybe a double fail-safe for turning it off?



Ho hum... Will carry on contemplating then... No worries, thanks for your help and answering the call once more.

And your data mobile looks kinda more serious than the stinky old bat mobile....
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:06 am 
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There's the brake fail pressure switch (on the master cylinder), it's got a GR (green/red) and a X (light green_ wire to it.

There's the brake light switch (on the brake pedal), GR wire either side.

And the clutch switch GR one side and GW (green/white) the other.

In an auto the brake light switch takes over from the clutch switch going into the CC module. In a manual, the clutch switch is there also.

So there's four ways to disable cruise control.
- on/off button
- brake pressure switch
- clutch switch
- brake lights
Add a fifth way if you just want to stop it being active (coast button).

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:19 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Sweet Databat. Good man... Have heard a rumour the the original clutch switch was a vacuum switch of some sort? Whatever...

I think someone has confused me (... yeah yeah ...) by saying that you can re-engage previous speed settings by pushing RES COAST after a clutch movement, but not after a brake movement?

Anyways, thanks heaps once again. You have not done enough to deter me from trying to hook up the clutch to the command line with suitable resistor however.

Let's face it - if you get into trouble you're going to hit the brake and / or keep the clutch depressed. As soon as brake is applied it'll turn off like normal anyway....

Cheers
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:52 am 
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Using the brake doesnt lose the memory of the last setting, I beleive that only happens if you use the 'off' button. Even then I dont know if the 'off' button will wipe its memory, I've never seen the need to turn it off once its been turned on, only coast and reset.
The only thing I kow that does take it memory is turning the car off.

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:09 am 
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fiend wrote:
Sweet Databat. Good man... Have heard a rumour the the original clutch switch was a vacuum switch of some sort? Whatever..

Cheers


only the ea,eb,and ed had vacuum/electric switches as most of the cc is vacuum operated..
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:31 pm 
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Ahhhh - Cool! Thanks again everybody....
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:04 am 
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MADXF wrote:
Using the brake doesnt lose the memory of the last setting, ....
Ahah, the tech doco on cruise install says slightly different (depending on which bit of it you read..!) and for some reason I cannot remember how it works as I just push buttons automatically now... My car is still at panel shop, so can't just go and try it out!

Thanks!
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:26 pm 
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Where is this actual document? All i see is a plethora of comments thanking Voxace for something im to stupid to find haha

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:30 pm 
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first page

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/download.php?id=10421

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:03 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Auto to Manual Conversion Guide
Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:40 pm 
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Hi all
Im in the process of converting my ELXR8 ex chasser to manual have T5 /pedal kit from Mel Woods & all other parts still waiting on a fly wheel.
Do I have to do any electrical mods?
My car has a seperate computor for the auto gear box .
Auto is still in the car so I have unpluged the gear box computor & car still goes.
Dave.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Auto to Manual Conversion Guide
Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:04 pm 
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Hi i got an el fairmont v8, converted to manual. it went really well for a few days, now it is a real mess, cant even drive it. will the six cyl resistors to the round plug work on the v8?

 

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