Lately I've been tossing up the idea of using an EL diff hat on my NA fairlane to get the lower pivot point. The reason in want to do this as I've read a couple threads and all of them have said that the lower pivot point improves handling and and decreases body roll dramatically.
What I want to know is will the diff hat fit my diff and will I need to use the EL watts link arms?
I've also read that adding 1 degree negative camber to all 4 wheels improves cornering capabilities dramatically.
Is this also true?

how are ya gunna add it to the rear wheels when ya have a solid diff???

It's just what I read on boosted falcon about an eb. Either way if I can only do it to the front will I see any benefits? I do corner pretty hard sometimes and oversteer is a big problem for me.
Do you know about the diff hat?

did you read all the article?? .. with ya barge you will always have some oversteer, however [not up to speed on all the EA/ED suspensions - i'm more torsion bars etc] changin spring/shocker rates and swapping/fitting swaybars should help in the handling area - experts WILL correct me if i'm wrong [& i'm quite happy to b ]





no sorry i don't

Lowered Selby springs are on their way. If I turn to quickly the front wheels will slide and I keep going forward. What could cause this? My front tyres are still good and have a very similar tread to my semi slicks I had on my Datsun.

Changing the pivot point on the hat will effect body roll... That was how the V8 Supercars set their rear roll previous to the Car Of The Future where they now run IRS... They had an adjustable centre they could wind up and down by crank handle... As fuel burnt off and the bum became lighter they could drop stiffness I think it was to maintain grip... Whether there is a difference between the EA and EL hat I have no idea...



EA to ED front wheel alignment specs from Ford...

the-garage-f53/timmya-s-93-ed-falcon-t79040-900.html

From here to the next few pages covers the AU upper arm install I did... The last specs from my alignment were -.5 deg camber... I cannot run any more with 8" wheels as it just scrubs tires... And I am now running 1mm toe in from my quick reading back 12 months ago... I have Pedders grey springs (lowest) with sportsryder front shockers (30mm lower spring carrier)... I also have the largest whiteline swaybars and the AU upper arms for extra caster and it is rigid as and pretty much goes where I point it... It's been a while since I've had a good hard look at my tires but I think they're wearing evenly...

My ED feels like I can hang onto a corner more than my factory BF MkII Turbo anyway...

On the sliding front tires... You get this when the car doesn't roll and load the tire properly for the corner to maximise grip on the outer tire while unloading the inner tire... OR the wheel alignment is wrong and tire isn't contacting the road properly... I lost some grip with the extra castor I gained with the AU arms but they made the car more drivable in a line...

The sliding could be caused by other things... Tire compound is too hard (not enough grip)... Tire is too wide (going wider with the same weight reduces pressure per area of tire on the road, going past a point you lose grip)... Tire too narrow (not enough tire on the road, friction)... Tire profile too high and rolling onto sidewall under load... Road surface is dirty or has low traction...

I reckon you'd best to get a wheel alignment by the sounds of it... Ensure you have no movement in the suspension (my radius rod front bushes had a few mm of play and throwing my toe in out by s**t depending whether I was braking (car load pushing onto wheels) or accelerating (wheel load pulling on car))... Also be aware that you can just get a bad set of tires too... Some batches can be bad and then the next batch of the same tire might be fine... Some tires do weird things to cars...

Cheers,
Tim

I will look into it thanks for the reply.