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| ford-racer46 |
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Hello, does 5 hours labor on an EL 6cyl sound right? coz that's $500 in labor at least, not to mention the price of gasket and "Consumables" But thats what i was quoted, can i just do this at home? anyone no the steps or gist even?
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| dan_mac20 |
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I'm sure with el's the sump had to come off, or just drop down. I may be wrong though.
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| 79 raven |
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99.9% sure there are 2 bolts that require the sump to either be dropped or removed to access. I was told by a mechanic its cheaper to get a rear main seal done than a sump gasket, you can do it yourself and there are threads on here and maybe a tech doc but I havent done one so I cant comment any further.
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| TROYMAN |
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all the bolts are accessible but you need to either remove the head or sump to get the timing cover back on without tearing the rubber seals up..
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hello, does 5 hours labor on an EL 6cyl sound right? coz that's $500 in labor at least, not to mention the price of gasket and "Consumables" But thats what i was quoted, can i just do this at home? anyone no the steps or gist even? Sounds about right, I have only removed the timing cover with the engine out, so was much easier. With the engine in, you have to remove the engine mounts, lift the engine up a little, drop the sump (which could possibly mean new sump gasket as well!), remove accessories and pulleys, remove timing chain tensioner and then you can remove the cover. In 5 hours, you could take the engine out, replace all hard-to-reach parts and probably put it back in...assuming nothing breaks along the way and the person doing it knows exactly what to do. I have taken the engine out in 2 hours, although putting it back in was a little harder (on my own).
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| ford-racer46 |
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Oh fudgesicles!
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| efxr6wagon |
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Yep, need to drop the front of the sump a little: a) to get the timing case in and out - it's wedged between the head on top and sump on bottom, and b) to get the one (bottom passenger side) timing chain guide in and out - it sits behind the front of the sump (stupid design).
I have done it twice: once engine in, second time engine out. Engine out is way easier, but no faster for me - I have to think about each step, check my Gregory's manual, etc. Would be closer to 10 hours for me.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| ford-racer46 |
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Wow! ok i think coz of the age of the motor i might buy a decent second handy, and maybe do the Gaskets whilst its out of the car like sump timing all that to make sure its all new
 Maybe an AU?
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Wow! ok i think coz of the age of the motor i might buy a decent second handy, and maybe do the Gaskets whilst its out of the car like sump timing all that to make sure its all new Maybe an AU? If you can get a good second hand running engine and change all the gaskets and hard to reach parts, that would be the most easiest. Do the welsh plugs while you're at it.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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