It does appear too small for heat transfer, I am surprised they don't freeze up even when at full engine temp, I have had a few over the years freeze up when used at high load and those converters have been double that size.

Nicely finished off, and not too bad on the economy either. I gave my LPG injection a tune last night & took the Ghia for a drive, suburban roads & highways, got 450 from the tank & still not quite hit reserve.

So let's say you save $5 a tank fill due to extra range, it's till going to take a while to make the kit pay for itself, but the extra power & reliability should make it worth the conversion alone.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Have you guys tried holding the changeover switch on while turning the ignition on - usually takes around 10 seconds.

The systems then usually start on LPG. Like you said - can be an issue in colder climates.

The trick there is simply to start the car and let it idle to warm up. I used to do this all the time in one of my cars in the NT when I was low on fuel.

Nigel

Mine has an LPG start option, but in colder weather it really struggles to idle to warm up. In the warmer months it's fine to use it, and I usually enable it during summer.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

No worries - the two systems Ive had dont "directly" have LPG start (OMVL Dream, and Eurogas). Its a nice option to have though. Normally I just tune the petrol start time right down and changeover temps down.

The documentation with my kit states it MUST start on petrol.

There are two conditional settings that must be met before the LPG ECU will switch over to LPG.

The first is Water Temp. The recommended temp is 50C. I did have it set at 40C for a week and it worked fine. I am testing it at 50C now to see if there is any improvement in the idle before it warms up to operating temp. It will idle fine with the ICS on, but hunts with it off.

The second is RPM. The recommended RPM is 1500. I have set it to 700rpm so I can switch between fuels at idle. It does this with barely any noticeable change.

Cheers
BenJ

Mine too states that, but there are further settings that do allow gas starting, depending on a delay timer you set & if you enable the gas start option.

I have my switch over set at 2500rpm, so if I don't have time to let the car warm up for a minute, I can set off on my trip & keep the engine under 2500rpm til it warms up a bit, then give it a kick above & it will switch over. Since changing to thermo fans, I have found that I get to the change over temp much quicker. Yay for thermo fans!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Another Package - No Mystery This Time

Hmmmm so I guess you guys will know what my time will be taken up with in the foreseeable future.



This was the major stumbling block in the way of a certain double sticked engine going in to the Wagon.

I picked it up from Joe at Crescent Motor Sports (CMS). He is selling the SCT Xcal3 for $750, which is a great price, and will load up the needed tune to get the engine running in a boxcar when I get to that step.

If you are considering a conversion, CMS do drive in, drive out deals as well.

Details and plans for the Barra Conversion will be posted soon.

Cheers
BenJ

cant wait for the start on this

will be watching with great interest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH LA LA! I take it that you may not be all that far off getting the twin stick engine to run?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

BA DOHC 9 - Plans and Progress

Plan of Attack

It has now been over 12 months since I last made any real progress on the BARRA conversion. This was due to budget limitations and life in general having priority. Now I have the SCT Flash Unit, my motivation and enthusiasm are all fired up.

My Wagon is my families only means of transport, which means it MUST NOT be off the road for much longer than a day or two. Considering this important factor I decided to use the ED Ghia Sedan as a test bed. I originally intended to use the EF Wagon, however, the ED wiring is similar to the EB making it a more logical choice. The K-Frame is also the same allowing me to measure up, assess and mod the ED as I go, learning all the lessons I need to before a spanner goes near the wagon.

I also have the EL dash conversion from my EB Sedan, which I will consider installing in the ED to help prove the wiring changes and adaptation will work.

The other good thing about using a non essential car as the test bed, is that if I get frustrated, I can just walk away and leave it. There is no pressure or dead line to meet, which makes things easier in general.

The final goal will be to have the BARRA engine installed in the ED and turn key operable. I want to be able to idle and rev it, and get it up to operating temperature. This will prove this engine does actually work, and isn't broken somehow, and having documented everything, will make the swap into the wagon relatively easy.

Progress

I got home early last Thursday and decided it was time to get busy.

A bit of work with the grinder made things a fair bit easier and this was the result.







I decided that as this car will eventually be wrecked it would just be easier to remove the centre of the radiator support. The BARRA will be in and out a few times so it just made sense.

I decided to test fit the engine mounts from the ED block to the BARRA Block. I have read numerous times that they bolt straight up, but wanted to check for myself.

Right Hand


Left Hand


Yep, they bolt straight up.

I have made a start on identifying and labelling all of the BA Body Wiring loom and will continue that this week.

Cheers
BenJ

good to read the start, hope all goes to plan for you,

BA DOHC 10 - Test Fit

Seeing as I had a bit of spare time this afternoon I decided to throw the BARRA into the ED.

I bolted on a spare EB bellhousing so I could bolt up a starter motor, and assess what holes lined up and what didn't. I intend to drill out the EB bellhousing so at least two more bolts can be used, and possibly four. All of the block bolts line up, but the sump is a different story. I will also need to drill out the BA sump so the clutch cable can pass through.

Engine in place.






Without a gearbox attached there is a fair bit of movement, which makes it difficult to work out how high the front of the engine actually sits. I made a good guess, and trialled closing the bonnet.

As others have found the BARRA is much taller and the bonnet rests on the front of the rocker cover.




The underbonnet matting is still fitted on the ED, so that will come off. I will also slot the engine mount brackets to lower the engine in the bay by approx 10mm. While the GT bonnet on the wagon has more clearance, I would like a standard bonnet to fit if required.

I have arranged to borrow a spare T5 and will pick it up later this week. I won't be installing a clutch or flywheel, but I will be able to bolt it all together in the correct locations.

Cheers
BenJ

Would you end up getting the BA bulge?
It would clear, but not sure on what you wants.

Cheers
Russ.