|
| fiend |
|
|||
|
Dude --- NZEA and me had the dash out of his EA2 and pedal box swapped in a lazy afternoon --- and that included going up to Pick-A-Part and getting a new dash to replace his canyon like cracking one.
The Banana's out back in Newtown, Wellington, NZ have all grown to about an inch or two long and promptly died in the 5 degrees temperatures. Odd stuff that, getting bananas growing in Wellington is a miracle in itself, never mind MAY!!! How much for the manual pedal box? Wasn't from someone in Upper Hutt was it?! Hmmm... When you get it, have a long hard look at it and see how you can make it stronger. Spent about an hour re-doing NZEA's cracked and trashed item and came up stronger than it ever was... Should last years, combined with Troymans firewall strengthener design... |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
Pedal box was $70 including post. How much of a pain was it getting the dash out and in? I really REALLY hate messing around with plastics and wires and all that s**t behind the dash, so try and avoid it lol. But i would quite like the genuine article rather than a Mal wood pin setup.....
On another note, got my self a Mongoose M80G, going to take it to installer services once she's back on the road to get it put in. Now, does it need tinkering with the smartlock or will the installer place know how to disable the smartlock so this can go in?
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
Paying for a ferry trip for me and the Futurlane would be cheaper than getting a garage to do it, but you'd best remove the dash with a friend and... Well... There is a document around here somewhere for removing an EF / EL dash... But EA-ED is actually easier. Start by taking the centre console out and work forward from there... Honestly, well worth the trouble I'd say.
I'm happy with my "MAL WOOD LOOKALIKE" for now, but it is probably a lot stronger in the long term than Mal's as I have drilled through and clamped two steel plates on each side of the pedal box.... You can feel the pedal box moving slightly with this set up, so would hate to think of the "tear stress" applied when using pedal repeatedly for years on end. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
My old mans a Mechanic so he can help, but still, i hate messy s**t like that, but i may attempt it, i'll have a look for the "how-to" on pulling the dash out. On a side note, i am modifying my IAT sensor wiring, here is a diagram, i need to know what wire connects to what?
To simplify the Photo, What wire off the loom goes to what side of the plug? eg Does green wire go to right side and Grey wire goes to left? Or does green wire go to Left side and Grey goes to right? I modifyed a plug from an AU to fit the AU XR8 sensor, so the wires could be off, just ignore them. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
I'd keep red stripe with red (!!!) or the FATTER CABLE with the FATTER CABLE is always a safe bet!
See if you can track down that NZEA slacker and see what he says about the bloody dash removal. It's pretty painless dude.... |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
I just wired it up, random wire to random wire, i don't think it will make too much of a difference really will it? i just wired the wire from the right side to the right side, left to left etc, going by the assumption that the pins on the sensor are the same as the ED ones.
Got my pedal box too, and looking at it, its no different to the manual box except that it has the bracket built into it for the clutch pedal. So i'm just going to use the Malwood pin kit as before, because it came with some massive brass plate that bolts to the bottom of the pedal box and the top, loads of support. Mal wood must have revised the design. Also scored the switches off the manual pedal box too, so i can now plug them in. Got some progress in the weekend too, put the lower half of the intake on, just have to bolt the EGR to the spacer now(blank egr spacer so doesnt actually work, just keeps the ECU happy) and i can chuck the top on and be done with it! Waiting on my trans tunnel cut from a guy up north, so once that arrives i will by dynamatting the underbody in the trans tunnel and putting the cutout on top so it looks standard. You will get what i mean when i add some pics, so dont worry. I'm just hoping when i turn the key once it's all done, it actually goes!!
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
Well finally got the engine finished, just have to re-time it now, put the dizzzy in and wire up the IAT sensor, as you can see from the pic. Now that this is done i can move onto doing the interior.
What do you lot think of this, a HERROD intake pipe for $150? Worth it? apart from looking cool, will the $150 actually do anything at all? You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| huggiebear |
|
|||
|
glad to hear your getting progress happening.
i dont believe it will do too much, might improve throttle responce a little... but nothing worth the 150 IMO |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
Thats what i thought, the guy has it listed for $200 with free sealed power pistons, but i don't want the pistons so i offered $100. He replied, $150 without the pistons........Doubt it. I'll keep my hundie.
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| huggiebear |
|
|||
|
im sure pistons are worth more then 50 bucks... offer him 50 for the pistons alone haha i bet he will ask 100-150 for the pistons alone aswell.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
Yeah lol, most likely! I was considering just paying the $200 and selling off the pistons and getting my money back. But i have many many many other things i need $200 for atm. Not interested in some Pistons are ya huggie?
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| huggiebear |
|
|||
|
haha im missing 2 cyl's... no good to me at all.... sorry
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XFWAGON |
|
|||
|
Another problem, after cutting and grazing my hands/fingers for hours just to get the brake pedal in, and clutch pedal bracket on, plus the auto ECU off, i now find that there is a huge bracket sitting where the clutch cable will come out(held the auto ecu onto the pedal box)....... i now have to get my hacksaw up there and painfully saw it off for the next few hours, mm by mm. Any tips?
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" Last edited by XFWAGON on Sun Nov 07, 2010 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| BenJ |
|
||
|
Grinder?
BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
||
| Top | |
||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
Angle grinders are my favourite tool for a reason. As said previously on other threads, you do need two angle grinders, a small one and a larger one (at least 180mm blade).
Without a decent angle grinder (I own three) and a plethora of different discs, blades, wheels and a decent amount of special "don't be scared of the 180mm disc doing 7,000rpm and setting fire to your carpet inches in front of your nose" balls, you aren't going anywhere fast.... You could go down to Bunnings or Mitre 10 Mega and get a crap little angle grinder for $60 or $70 and get a 1mm thick Norton cut off wheel for it. You'd better grab four or five of them, and some real decent safety specks and maybe some ear plugs whilst you're there. Use the three hours you've saved on d**k about with a hacksaw to go to work and earn $100 to pay for your new angle grinder. Right. I've given up trying to find a valve spring compressor that won't bend to bits when trying to do my valve stem seals, so am now going to simply put the reground head back on the block with the old seals in place. Go figure. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Facebook [Bot] and 13 guests |
