Ah, there's two wires for me, red and white. I've tapped into the white wire myself ( White goes to ECU )

Good to see that things seem to be working though...

Unfortunately the second hand speedo transducer hasn't fixed the issue... Seeing as the speedo worked intermittently for long periods of time, i doubt it has anything to do with a stripped gear inside the gearbox extension housing. Either a wiring issue has taken place, or I've been sold a faulty sender.

Aiming to rectify the issue tomorrow, continuous stalling in public isn't exactly fun

Hey Bayden, I wouldn't have thought that the speedo transducer would have any affect with the engine stalling-we do need to make some changes with the speedo-settings I think, changing the voltage settings for what the ECU needs to read(don't quote me thou) should make it work closer to normal I hope, cheers, Johnny.

Any idea why there's no MAP/TPS-INJ B1/O2 B2-INJ B2, are all yours working?

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Last edited by johnnyeHCF on Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

The stalling only occurs on negative loads before depressing the clutch, instead of dropping back down to idle, it continues to fall... Most of the time it ends up saving itself however. Don't forget these systems were designed with speed limiters, abs, traction control ect... Taking away one of the most important sensors surely is a recipe for disaster.

Using vcm scanner, with the ignition on, start scanning and open up the gauges. Monitor the speed that the PCM is outputting vs the actual vehicle speed ( dash or gps ), make necessary changes to the Pulse per revolution parameter until the two speeds match one another and sync properly throughout the speedometer range.

For now I'll cancel the appointment with Ford, if i discover the PCM isn't reading the speed correctly ( Which wouldn't make sense, it's outputting a speed signal therefore it has a speed variable to use ) I'll end up making another appointment to re program the VID block.

Trial and error this is.

Hi Bayden, hows the EA doing, you were pretty much spot on with the transducer pulses, did a bit of research and from what I can tell all the speedo transducers from XF on are 10 pulse per revolution and the earlier ones were 8 pulse per revolution, drove the XG up the north coast and back 7-8 hour drive each way-was a lot better the way back after a few adjustments/good power and much better fuel economy than the old donk,anyway hope all is well, cheers, Johnny.

Hey Johnny,

The EA has been off the road for quite a few days now, I've ripped apart the cluster and have been troubleshooting the PCB for said speedometer gauge. Something was stealing my voltage, after a few nights i've narrowed it down to a bad IC ( UAF 2115 ). I couldn't find any sales on these chips so i assume they've been discontinued for quite a while now... The only seller i could find was from China. Anyhow, I'll have to buy a 2nd hand cluster to fix the speed sensor issue.

Good to see the XG is reliable, fuel economy has been pretty good for me as well, considering the PCM has no clue how fast i'm traveling lmao. In regards to the VCM scanner gauge issue, to my understanding there are certain PID's that will not travel over the CAN line as they're not supported. I've changed the gauge settings to read a different " MAP kpa " PID, and reading the throttle pedal angle instead of a percentage. Injector data and what not don't appear on mine either so don't worry...

Quick 0 - 100 run.

While the weather is still great i decided it was a good idea to film the car for a 0 - 100 run. It wasn't a serious run by any means, just casual acceleration and gear changes.

The engine as most of you know, is stock.

Here's a video of the 0 - 100 before i start tinkering around with the software.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNChRax ... e=youtu.be

I Don't plan on putting any serious cash into modding the N/A Barra 182. I'll wait until i have the funds to replace the N/A engine with an XR6T motor.

Also I'm rather confused as to why my tacho seems to be reversing after 3000rpm...

Any updates on this?

Any updates on this?

There will be, I've got various photos ready, just needs some nice writing up.

Won't be for a day or two at this rate, Father is going in for triple bypass surgery tomorrow.

Is there anything in particular you'd like some info on?

Yea family has to come first-Hope the surgery goes perfectly for your dad tommorow, cheers, Johnny.

Just some general updates

Thankfully my Father has pulled through, tough cookie should have a properly functioning heart now, cigarettes and a bad diet are a serious regret once one hits 50 as I understand.



How is the EA going?

GrannyFalcon is going strong, so far no signs of engine oil leaks. There happened to be a minor power steering leak from the upper threaded swivel join, not only did this mean loss of power steering fluid, this also meant each drop would eventually fly into the cat converter thus creating smoke... A quick tighten fixed that up. There's also a minor leak around the heater core piping... Some time I'll get around to filling the join up with high temp red silicon, preventing water leakage around the crumpling heater core piping.

While the conversion may have seemed somewhat successful straight afterwards, that moment had been short lived. I found that the Barra would keep stalling after depressing the clutch whilst de - accelerating... Not only that, but being limited to 3000RPM every now and then wasn't exactly fun either. After going through various thoughts on what the issue would be, i came to the conclusion that the PCM needed a speed input. This was an easy fix, I simply removed the white wire from the EA gearbox connector located on the firewall, and ran a female connector from that to the BA PCM connector( And looping back to the EA connector again ofcourse ) While this should have worked, i soon found out that the plastic clip inside of the PCM body loom connector that houses the VSS pin, had snapped... Fun times. The simple fix was to pull the pin straight through the connector and solder a face around the pin, this would prevent the pin from pulling back through the connector, thus making contact with the male pin on the PCM itself. Success! Oh but wait.

The speedometer had randomly stopped working every now and then, not too often to be an issue. However, this time the speedometer never woke up, forever it was dead. Jacking the car up i found the speedo transducer was absolutely coated in crud, Instead of testing the wiring i went out and purchased a speedo transducer to throw in ( Changing the plastic gear over ofcourse ). Nope, still dead... I Lived with it for a while, hell I went down to Aulbury with John to pick up a blown 350 smallblock for his GQ patrol, which the Barra happily towed back doing 110 - 115 over hills. I decided to rip apart the cluster to get really technical with the issue, too stingy to purchase a $100 + cluster. After spending days testing various components, the issue ended up being a cracked trace on the main circuit board ( That houses the bulbs ) The trace was for the red wire that runs into the speedometer PCB. After soldering a new trace over the top, the speedometer has ever since been working, thus no more stalling / limp mode issues.



Once that issue was rectified, the next big task was to fix the VCT circuit. Four different codes for both A and B circuits ( sensors and actuators ) I realized the VCT actuators had no power... This was simply overlooked, i quickly soldered the VCT actuators positive circuit, to the injector / coil wires. That was none the less, simple... The cam sensors on the other hand, for some unknown reason weren't showing any signs of continuity to the PCM connector. With no other choice than to rip apart the engine harness, which thankfully was easily accessed, I had discovered a broken gray wire ( SigRTN for both sensors / knock sensor ) Happy days. Once that was soldered back together, the car finally ran right. No more slouchy top end, instead putting me back in the seat as it should.



Ofcourse it's only an N/A Barra, nothing special. Having increased the power over 40kw from the factory 3.9, it's fun and somewhat, economical... considering. Do i think it was worth it? Hell yes i do, nothing is better than learning and getting an upgrade at the same time! The tired old 3.9 just wasn't cutting it for me, power and fuel efficiency wise.

Tired old 3.9 ( 220xxx kms ) 0 - 100 : 8 seconds

Barra ( 144xxx kms ) 0 - 100 : 6 seconds

Do i plan on modding the barra?

What else to do with a ford but mod it. I'll be fitting up some extractors, high flow cat, 20% under-drive Harmonic balancer and spending some time tuning it. Not too sure on intake choice however... Hopefully bounce the power up and get between 5 - 6 seconds from 0-100. As it is, i leave alot of cars behind on the parkway ramps.

I'll try get a HD walk around video of the falcon done some time.

Cat converter spacer, AC, wiring harness location and radiator clearance

Once the conversion was complete, the cat converter needed to be spaced forwards a fair wack otherwise it will leak at the headers / cat flange due to the wrong angle after pulling the cat forwards. Instead of chancing it with a stick welder, I got the local exhaust shop to do it for me. Simple job, but it works.



What i haven't clarified yet, is where i ran the wiring harness on the firewall. Being an EA falcon, the wiring harness hides behind the head / above the bellhousing. Now instead of me drilling holes into the firewall, the simple solution was to cable tie the conversion loom, to the existing loom. While this seems dodgy, it works a treat. I'm not too happy with the insulation tape peeling back in some areas... I may have to go back over them.



I've yet to actually hook up the AC lines, i barely use the AC so I'm unsure whether or not if i'll go ahead in doing so. The compressor itself works though, Wiring the EA blue wire into the BA compressor, and earthing the other pin on the compressor, to the compressor itself. In my case it was simple, no mucking around with climate control.



There's quite the bit of clearance between the serpentine belt and the thermo fans, quite happy about that. The thermo fans are controlled by a prehistoric electronic thermostat, eliminating the need of wiring them to the BA PCM. The temp never seems to rise over 85c.

Hey Bayden, when you say the VCT wasnt working-was it throwing up codes for that?, cheers Johnny.

Yes, the codes were

Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit - Broken wire inside loom
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit - Broken wire inside loom

Camshaft Actuator Circuit Bank 1 - Forgot to wire positive to the VCT actuators ( At the front of the head )
Camshaft Actuator Circuit Bank 2 - Forgot to wire positive to the VCT actuators ( At the front of the head )

The engine had bottom end power, however it lacked any real power in the top end... This was due to the camshafts being in the fully advanced position ( -10 deg )