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| gnasher347 |
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Hey Tim,
There is a guy on trueblueford running complete AU VCT driveline in an EL inclulding I think the AU ECU. http://www.trueblueford.com/shane_el.html is the link to his car. Speaking to a mate of mine that used to work at Ford he has a feeling the AU ECU should run the NL dash without too much drama. Will hit him up again tomorrow to make sure as am thinking of going the same way myself |
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| SWC |
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gnasher347 wrote: Hey Tim, There is a guy on trueblueford running complete AU VCT driveline in an EL inclulding I think the AU ECU. http://www.trueblueford.com/shane_el.html is the link to his car. Speaking to a mate of mine that used to work at Ford he has a feeling the AU ECU should run the NL dash without too much drama. Will hit him up again tomorrow to make sure as am thinking of going the same way myself Know Shane well, Car no longer exists, but was running full AU K Frame, brakes, IRS and engine. Was a very nice car when it was alive. |
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| TimmyA |
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Beaut XG wrote: TimmyA wrote: A quick (long) trip to Tallarook on Sunday resulted in the purchasing of a whole AU car minus the car Made me lol... To be perfectly honest I made myself LOL a little when I was writing it too...  I'm sure there is probably a saying about those who are amused by their own sense of humour...  gnasher347 wrote: Hey Tim, There is a guy on trueblueford running complete AU VCT driveline in an EL inclulding I think the AU ECU. http://www.trueblueford.com/shane_el.html is the link to his car. Speaking to a mate of mine that used to work at Ford he has a feeling the AU ECU should run the NL dash without too much drama. Will hit him up again tomorrow to make sure as am thinking of going the same way myself Cheers for that... If SWC is right then it WAS a nice car for sure... Beauty of the AU K frame is then being able to run the AU uprights and factory AUII big brakes with the better floating caliper design... Also makes changing the oil easy as it don't run from the filter all over the K frame like it does on the E series... I am going to give it a go... plug all the wiring into each other on the floor and fit a temp sensor and then wire it into an NL cluster and see if temperature registers properly... We have a temperature probe calibrator at work and I'll use that to vary temperature and see what it says in diag mode on the NL cluster... I'm fairly sure that the E series temp sensor and AU temp sensor work on the same resistance scale (if someone wants to confirm or deny) so that's that part covered... If I can't get fuel usage per 100km in diag mode working but get the temp working I think I'd settle for that... I usually have my diag mode set on Litres to empty anyway... And occasionally speed... May be a fluke yet... Doubt anybody much on here has walked this route yet, but not much extra info would be in the data line on the AU looking at the literature available to me so I am hoping it is coded the same way... Time will tell... Actuators will be sorted... I'll run after market actuators in the car... The cheap generic ebay ones use the same electrical operation as the AUII onward units... So I'll mount them in place of the smartlock actuators on the same plates to retain the factory E series door rods just for ease... Plus spares are cheap and easy to find... As opposed to the ford ones which always seem to break... Got to modify the poer window stuff for switches in the centre console and once that's done that should be the larger part of tricky stuff... There will be a stack of unused airbag wiring in the dash and engine loom... Most stuff looks good but... Quite happy with the way things are panning out so far... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ok...
Closer... After hours and hours this arvo of comparing the literature on here in the tech docs to the genuine Ford wiring manual I have found a number of inconsistencies in the tech doc wiring... But that may be due to it being for series 1 and me having a series 2 book and wiring so I wont say what is in the tech docs is wrong... I have discovered that the cruise "lamp" and the power/econ "lamp" turn on in the LCD and they are switched on through the data line... There is no other wiring going into the cluster which could bring these on that I can see... Cruise specifically shows the lamp output from the cruise module feeding into the EEC and then coming out in the data wire colours going to the data wire pin in the cluster... This may mean the NL cluster may no recognise the AU data line because it has extra stuff in it... So may throw in a bag'o'worms... I doubt the AU cluster will go anywhere near fitting into the ED dash... Looks too oddly shaped and small... Now for more testing... Cheers, Tim
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And it says the LCD gives bulb out functions like the NL cluster did... Will have to investigate the wiring for that too... See if it is legit or is just an error in the picture...
That'll be tomorrow but... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Little more progress...
After much hair pulling I have finally decoded the cluster plugs and made a spreadsheet up to patch AU wiring into an NL cluster... Most is plug and play... Some needs adjusting... Heap of "extra" stuff in the AU wiring (7 pins) and some other stuff gone missing too... I need to add in 4 wires for my door ajar system, think I'll leave the fuel flap ajar out... That's about it really... Think I'll leave bulb out function out too... Serves little to no purpose in reality anyway and just makes things more complicated... It appears AU wiring does not support this, if the Fairmont body loom I have did support it then I'd probably include it, but too much hassle I think... Now to set up the full wiring system and hope to hell the AU computer will drive the NL cluster diagnostics... Hopefully the Cruise light and power/econ extras in the data signal are just ignored by the cluster... That would make my life so much easier (we all know it wont happen right?  )Just got to find my spare AU temp sensor to give it all a whirl... Does anyone know if I plug all my car wiring onto an AUI engine which is installed in a going car, will I be able to start that engine and have my AUII car wiring run the AUI engine with AUI loom? That'd make it easy to test... I'd have to plug into the fuel pump too to make it run (or I just force it on for the sake of testing) and my temp battery would charge but it would suffice yeah? Just helps me check it all before fitting it to a vehicle only to find I have to pull it all back out again... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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afaik there is no major difference in series 1 engine loom to series 2, except for tps and coil pack plug, also the au temp sensor range is pretty much the same as e series, meaning you could use the au one ..
also au, including Fairmont don't have a bulb out warning... |
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| TimmyA |
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Troy,
Knew you'd be spot on with the AU stuff... Thanks man... Yeah so was a short lived feature on only the NF and NL fairlanes? Or AU fairlanes featured it too? I still think I'll give it a miss either which way... I may dodgy up my wiring onto my brothers AUI one tonner just to see if the L/100 comes through the NL diagnostic mode... As well as the temp gauge readings... Really easy when I just need to plug my big square plug onto the top of his BBM to make the engine run... will help me solve heaps of stuff... I wasn't sure if AUI ran a different T-map or anything... May be a weekend job... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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TimmyA wrote: Troy, Knew you'd be spot on with the AU stuff... Thanks man... Yeah so was a short lived feature on only the NF and NL fairlanes? Or AU fairlanes featured it too? I still think I'll give it a miss either which way... I may dodgy up my wiring onto my brothers AUI one tonner just to see if the L/100 comes through the NL diagnostic mode... As well as the temp gauge readings... Really easy when I just need to plug my big square plug onto the top of his BBM to make the engine run... will help me solve heaps of stuff... I wasn't sure if AUI ran a different T-map or anything... May be a weekend job... Cheers, Tim my au ghia don't have the bulb out feature, also something of difference I found between series 1 and 2 au, is the series 1 au gets its trip comp info from the cluster where series 2 gets it either from ecu or bcm? I found that out when I put a series 2 ghia cluster in my series 1 ghia the trip comp stoped getting data and head light warning chimes stopped working.. |
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| TimmyA |
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Yeah ok... I have all series II looms... I have XR egine bay, engine, dash, and computer looms... And fairmont body loom...
The Ford AU II book I have here in front of me doesn't mention a trip computer at all... It does mention a message display centre but... Is that it? If so then it does get it's info from the cluster... 2 wires run from the cluster to it... But the wires are not in XR dash loom and as such the message display centre much have only been on vehicles running the high series dash loom... Once I verify my pin out spreadsheet tomorrow I'll post it up for the world to see... Wires available on AU 2 which are not in my mid series loom are as follows: Pin 1 Left - Chime Request Pin 4 Left - Message Display Centre Pin 5 Left - RR Door Switch Pin 6 Left - FL Door Switch Pin 7 Left - I have the alternate XR door ajar, Missing RL Door Switch Pin 8 Left - Bootlid Ajar Switch Pin 17 Left - Door Ajar Output Pin 25 Left - Message Display Centre The other difference I do know of is on series I the radio control buttons on the wheel run straight to the radio... On Series II and III they run to the cluster, it changes the signal and then it sends the modified signal to the radio... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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There was a spare plug near the fuel flap release solenoid plug on the fairmont I pulled my loom from... It was unused on the fairmont... Would you know what it does troy? Not for fuel flap ajar (which I think was delete on the AU)? I can't find any unusual plugs in this book in that region so far...
Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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For those eagerly awaiting... On paper here it is...
Attachment: NL to AU XR Cluster Pinouts.xls Just got to test it in reality now... But this should be all correct... This is applicable to the AU Series II XR Dash Harness (mid series)... Plugs are right, just need to move the pins around (easy  )Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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I'll probably borrow one and find out for myself, but off the top of their heads does anyone know the operation for the AU door lock switch?
I know they deleted the door button and the interior light was switched on by the door lock assembly itself... Is it just a normal set of contacts in there, or did it change resistance like the door ajar system on the E series did? One page in the AU manual shows it being one resistance when open and another when closed, and another page shows contacts being closed when the door is open and contacts being open when door is closed... Gotta suss it out to work out the neatest way to integrate the door ajar for the NL cluster and the interior light operation... I have a plan and am hoping it is just a set of contacts in the door switches... Only reasong being is they need to feed back into the body module, where combining the door ajar resistances will be a touch more involved to get the cluster to see them as individuals but the BEM to see them as a combine (probably makes no sense, but I know what I'm on about  mainly just getting thoughts down so I can refer back when I forget what I was planning)...Cheers, Tim
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Lots of people looking at all my nonsense... Not many people saying much but... Guess I'm just confusing the crap out of everybody... As usual I suppose...
Anyway, the madness continues some more... Finally pulled the AU dash apart this arvo simply to get to the loom... What a bloody task... I'd have hated to be on that part of the assembly line in the late 90's... Anyway the loom is saved! And I now have a thousand more bolts and speed nuts to add to the collection... Tomorrow's job is some re-wiring to make the NL cluster function somewhat for the time being... Then fire up my looms attached to my brothers ute and warm it up and hope to hell the AU data line will drive the NL cluster... Fingers and toes crossed (don't like my odds )Cheers, Tim
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On that note, what are some people's recommendations to do with the dodgy looking firewall deadener? Can you buy something to replace it with to make it purty once more? Or you just turf it altogether (make it noisy?)... My rubber ED one is split a hundred thousand times, not sure what to do yet... Hard to find any used ones that haven't started to fall to bits yet too...
Cheers, Tim
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