Done well Timmy.
Looks top notch.

Thanks Matt!

Good signature... Hadn't seen that before...

Cheers,
Tim

My thoughts were to make the changes in the driver kick panel or in the back of the dash... This is easiest with the wiring i have already and I mount 4 small relays behind the kick panel...
So then all you need to modify in the door is the ajar switches. Makes sense.

Can you recall off the top of your head whether the pin is pushed in or let out for door open? Reason for this is if it back to front (pin pushed in when door closed) then something happens and one of the little flimsy mounting tabs breaks off under use (hopefully not common) then the pin will spring out and you wont be able to lock the car... So hoping pin is out when the door is closed and this will be the open circuit position... If you can't remember I can suss this out for myself anyway and create a workaround... Can't remember Dude - you can add jumpers/cut circuit tracks to achieve what you want. Haven't had a prob with tabs breaking in use.

Thoughts were I pop the 4 pins out that run into the big plug behind the driver kick panel and use them to hook to the relay coils as all door ajar switches go to ground anyway... Pick up the grey/yellow as you say for the other side of the coil... Use 4 diodes and then hook interior light two wires to the coil negatives (digital input on the BEM so no current, doesn't need another relay, the ajar switch can take that trigger to ground along with the relay coil) And then as you say with the resistors on the relays and coming back off each relay back up to the cluster for ajar indication... If that makes sense... Easiest only for my case because of the lack of wiring in the doors and I get all 4 relays mounted neatly next to each other...

I had no troubles connecting the ajar switches to the locks... Are the hard to get back off without breaking the tags off them? I have two sets that I have purchased and of them 4 of 8 turned up broken and useless... I managed to make 1 semi good one from 4 broken ones... Also they're rare as rocking horse s**t to find for sale anywhere... Anybody got any NA ones lying around as Snap describes above?If you carefully pull the wire end away from the lock, should be okay. I'm in Sydney in another 6-7 weeks, I can get some then, or you can PM BenJ and ask him if he can rustle a few up for you.

Can you recall off the top of your head whether the pin is pushed in or let out for door open? Reason for this is if it back to front (pin pushed in when door closed) then something happens and one of the little flimsy mounting tabs breaks off under use (hopefully not common) then the pin will spring out and you wont be able to lock the car... So hoping pin is out when the door is closed and this will be the open circuit position... If you can't remember I can suss this out for myself anyway and create a workaround...
Door open - pin out (1380ohms), Door closed - pin in (180 ohms)

That seems like a lot of work to do what could be done by just getting an EL front passenger lock mechanism.


Let's see if I've got this right...
Currently if you have the front passenger door on one click, the car thinks everything is fine, but the front passenger door doesn't actually lock.

What you want is either a warning that it's not closed properly, or for it to actually lock even though it's not shut fully.

Or have I misinterpreted something in there?

Thanks Snap... Just worked that out on Sunday... In the process of chasing down some NA door ajar switches... I tried with a spare later model one I had on the weekend and lucky it already had the mounting tabs broken off it because I killed it trying to get it apart... Ford did a fantastic job designing something that was so easy to get together but so incredibly hard to get back apart... As such I'm fairly keen to find these NA switches you speak of now...

Mad... Sounds pretty much right... What I achieve by adding in door ajar sensors is that the car wont lock if any door is ajar... So you don't wonder off and leave a door ajar, not even the back doors... The car has to be properly shut before it will lock and adds to the peace of mind when you walk away...

It wont be a lot of work... I thought "oh no I wish I'd mentioned this before and Ray suggested his idea prior to fitting the body loom to the car"... But it wont be that bad of a job to do... I'll add information as I gather the required parts (Finder relays are on their way)... It will turn out really neat and just be 4 relays behind the driver kick panel... It will also make the extra wire I had to run in to the door buttons redundant... As Snap said, pin out is door open which is the way the spring push on the switch... If the switch were to break it's mounting tabs and dangle inside the door it would think the door is ajar and would not lock... This way if this ever happens away from home I can just pop the driver kick panel off and unplug the small white plug joining the body loom to the dash loom (this plug had the pretensioners in it and I adopted it for my extra circuits) and the car wont see the ajar sensors and will lock again... That's my fail safe just in case I ever get stuck... Or see how I go... May do something else as back up... Depends what arrises once I start the minor modification...

The other place I could do this to is in the back of the dash. But I can't think off anywhere where there is the space in the back of the dash to do it neatly... Behind the driver kick panel where this is heaps of space should make it fairly easy... Plus then all the door wiring remains untouched and operates exactly as is... With the exception of swapping from the late model switches to the NA modded switches when my mate the wrecker gets back to me... I managed to instal the current switches without having to remove the door latches... Hopefully I can do the same to change over to the new ones...

Cheers,
Tim

does anyone in this thread think its possible to run just the AU ECU and engine loom without running any other extra looms?

theres far too much to read in this thread but ill go back and have a look, what exactly have you done in terms of looms, ecu etc and why?

Na not really... You may get away with series 1... But with Series 2 and 3 they computer wont see the smartshield body module to disable the security... But maybe you can flash that out of the computer... Not sure...

Otherwise... possibly... The computer loom has the big plug which plugs into the dash loom... That will be too short to reach the plugs on the ED dash loom and will need maybe 8 inchs or so added to every wire that is to join into the dash loom...

The engine bay will be a bit untidy because on the ED the computer loom comes out and then runs down under the manifold and joins onto the temp sensor and the air con, the wiring tee's off and picks up one side of the TX valve and then runs over the motor and drops down the other side and icks up the hego and that... Same applies with the power steering pressure switch...

On the AU the hego is picked up on the cruise loom and runs into the car and then is carried through the dash loom to the computer to keep that wiring out of the engine bay... The AU wiring comes out and has the big plug which picks up everything on the motor except the big wire to the starter, and the alternator wiring... It then runs down under the manifold and picks up the air con sensors and then comes out in two plugs at the air box... One is deicated to ABS (which I don't run) and the second which allows the computer to drive the required relays in the relay box... Things like WAC, thermofans, and antyhing else which I can't remember... There is a stack of wires in the big black plug...

It was easier at the end for me to run full AUII wiring in... Saved need to identify every single wires job and then migrate it into the old gear... As long as it took me to set up the dash loom in the first place (other looms weren't so bad, and could be easier if you have less "features" than me) it was easier because I need to reroute the inst cluster wires and everything else like BEM, clock, headlights, cd player, etc etc all plretty much just plugged straight in... Some just needed a plug change which was easy...

What you are saying may be possible... But would be somewhat of a headache and involve some custom wiring in places to pick up other things that the AU ECU loom doesn't have provisions for, and not sure how you go running the AU computer without the AU compressor and air con sensors (it has two sensors) and making that work... Again something else I didn't need to suss out because I just fitted an AU compressor and sensors...

Cheers,
Tim

smartshield can be disabled with a J3, wiring extensions and plug changes are fine by me.
and its an XH, so has the EL style wiring looms which should eliminate all the other problems you were suggesting?
i'm not concerned about door ajar or fuel flaps lol. and its a manual so that makes it easier again.

do you know enough about EL wiring to know of any issues specific to an EL?

Na no idea how the EL wiring looms are set out the... EL dash boys like BenJ and Snap and such would know better than me...

EL has a wiring loom that hangs off the inside of the firewall as much as I c an tell from photos of them... Where nor ED or AU have this...

AU wiring looms are as follows:

Engine Bay-> Runs from the airbox and picks up the passenger headlight, over the radiator support panel, picks up the thermofans on the drivers side and the driver headlight, disappears into the massive fuse box... Wiring drops out of it down to the alternator... In my case wiring to the header tank... A big plug for ABS (which I cut out) and then wiring goes through in the inner mudgaurd, over the wheel and ends with three plugs inside the car, brown one with three big main power wires in it, big white one which plugs into the dash loom for everything else out the front and a small blue one which picks up the rear ABS sensors...

Cruise Loom-> AKA big orange plug loom... plugs into the dash loom and picks up brake and clutch switches... Then goes outside the firewall and picks up break fail, wiper, and cruise module plugs... It drops down from there and picks up hego and power steering switches...

Dash loom-> Has two rear plugs which plug into the above two physically located above the accelerator pedal... It also drops two plugs down behind the kick panel which plug into the body loom... Big plug does pretty much everything and small plug does the RCM pretensioners... Picks up every single item in the dash and finishes on the passenger side with two plugs One for the antenna and another big white cam lock style plug which plugs into the computer loom...

Heaterbox loom-> 8 pin white plug which plugs into the dash loom behind the glove box... This short loom picks up the speed resistor, fan and capillary wiring...

Body loom-> Starts at the driver kick panel, picks up three plugs, one from engine bay loom (ABS) and two from the dash loom and tees two ways... Up the A pillar and plugs into the door loom and keeps going up to pick up the driver tweeter and interior light loom... The remaining wiring goes beside the driver door and tees under the driver seat across the car... The remaining wiring keeps running back, picks up the rear door and then goes under the back seat and tees up under the bolster to the parcel shelf items including the boot loom... The other side of the tee runs into the boot and picks up driver tail light and trailer plug before running across under the boot opening to the passenger tail light... The wiring that teed under the driver seat picks up centre console accessories and then ends up on the other side of the car... It tees there and runs forward up behind the computer to pick up the passenger mudguard indicator and then up to pick up the door loom and passenger side tweeter... It runs rearward picking up the back door, ducking into the boot and then picking up fuel pump and fuel flap solenoid...

Boot Loom-> I used my original ED loom here and fitted the ED plug to the body loom asthis was easiest so std ED boot loom picks up lights and boot latch...

Door Looms-> Pretty self explanatory...

So that's how the wiring is laid out in an AU for anyone wondering... As I saidm photos show EF/EL has this extra loom mounted to the inside of the firewall... Maybe the dash loom on the EF/EL has bugger all in it because the main stuff runs behind it... Not sure... but yeah your hego and power steer switch may be carried in that... You'd still need to suss out if you can make the AU computer happy with the 1 sensor that EF/EL air con runs as the AU will be missing the temp indication it normally receives from the air con gas... If you don't have ABS that removes that problem... The AU computer is hooked into the AU ABS module... Not sure why... The big black plug behind the passenger headlight on the AU you'd need to wire into your EF/EL stuff to driver the thermofans and such... And as long as EF/EL has some big plug behind the glove box to plug into the computer loom then you should be able to get those connections made too... Should be doable I think... No doubt there is some little niggly problem I've overlooked here somewhere but... Not sure if you'll have any dramas with airbags... Again if you don't have them you'll be right...

Cheers,
Tim

lol jesus your like the oracle with this s**t now.
thanks heaps for the effort in the posts mate!
you've really made it easier for alot of people.
i think its quite doable, ill get an AU loom in the next few weeks and suss it out.

It's easier to get it out of my head into here while it's still fresh... Otherwise I'll forget it and someone will ask me in the future and I wont remember... Can't remember how the ED looms routed the engine bay anymore... Only know AU now...

Only thing! If you aren't changing the motor, the AU picks up on the following engine sensors...

T-Map... This does pressure and temperature... To run this you would need to fit an AU upper BBM...
Crank Angle Sensor... Your EL style motor may not have the provision for this?
Cam Angle sensor... On AU this fits in through a hold in the timing case and works on hall effect against the gear on the AUX shaft... Not sure if the EF sensor in the dizzy hole is a substitue for this or not (see my photos of the motor)...
Knock sensor... Should be an easy fitment...
Temp Sensor... On AU this fits in the back of the head, screwed into a blind hole
TPS... AUII runs a different plug to ED-AUI so may need to change that...

Outputs are injectors, coil pack, starter, IAC and that's about it...

Gearbox stuff is part of the engine loom... Only picks up reverse switch and TPS...

Yeah that's about all I can think of for the moment... If you are fitting an AU motor then you wont have any hassles here either... It'll have the right loom and sensors straight up... The crank and cam angle sensors may be a pain otherwise...

Cheers,
Tim

yeah its all good, i'm well accross the sensors and differences in the motors etc.
just haven't seen an Au engine loom, but you've been a great help, i reckon it will be as hard/easy as doing an EL dash in an ED in terms of wiring.

i'm also fitting an EL dash to the XH, but thats only a matter of a few plugs and modifying the heater box output, i'll let you know how i go with it though so you can add the info to your head haha

yeah its all good, i'm well accross the sensors and differences in the motors etc.
just haven't seen an Au engine loom, but you've been a great help, i reckon it will be as hard/easy as doing an EL dash in an ED in terms of wiring.

i'm also fitting an EL dash to the XH, but thats only a matter of a few plugs and modifying the heater box output, i'll let you know how i go with it though so you can add the info to your head haha

so say i had all the engine loom and smartshield sorted, excluding extra things that arent there on previous models, like the aircon temp sensor (if there are any others, chime in), is there anything else you could think of that would stop it running?

any chance you could unplug the aircon sensor and see what happens?

i'm thinking of repinning the ECU instead, someone has converted an EL to EF ECU and EDIS by running a few extra wires and re-pinning the ECU, so i was thinking of doing the same and running 3 more injector wires in the loom.

anything you can think of that would stop this from working from an ECU point of view?
would it be easier to do S1/2 or s3?
is any one better than the other for any reason?

sorry for all the questions in the thread, your the man to ask though haha