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| TimmyA |
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Yeah ROH 17x8's snap...
Also misk the common thing was to try and fit AU uprights as opposed to the top arm to run the bigger brakes... The upright was PITA because it needs the AU k frame for the bottom, not so much the upper arm was difficult... I want to only run the top arm, not the upright... As I said I'd do my own thing for big brakes before going to AU offset... Like my wheels too much... Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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i never said the top arm was difficult, i was explaining that the adapters were made so they could be fitted easily.
doesn't make sense to say if you're fitting the arms you may as well do a heap more work in fitting the AU k frame.
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| snap0964 |
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I think it's been mentioned on here that the Race brakes Sydney setups had E series offset, all the others had +20 and higher.
What we wouldn't give for some EL GT or FBT uprights.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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snap0964 wrote: I think it's been mentioned on here that the Race brakes Sydney setups had E series offset, all the others had +20 and higher. What we wouldn't give for some EL GT or FBT uprights. I am hearing you and I keep a close eye out on the sale sites for them... Though if a set come up (given the last set I saw on here went for 1500 bucks) I simply wouldn't have the money but I'd try find a way to get them... Trouble with them then is, besides the initial outlay, the rotors are $300 a side, surely AUII aren't that dear... And christ knows how hard it is to explain to the shop assist what the pads are that I require... If it were AUII rotor and caliper parts are common and cheap and it's easy... I think you're right about RBS but I'm sure they blow the 1500 to 2000 price tag of a second hand EL GT system out of the water and I can't justify that... My car stops pretty good as is with the braided lines and slotted discs and performance pads... I also have the dual diaphragm booster... All that would be nice is slightly better braking when I'm doing tip runs with another 1.5t in the trailer... Though electric brakes on the trailer would fix that and I'm not doing that... Cheers, Tim
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Race Brakes Sydney still use the EL GT rotors.
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| snap0964 |
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^^^^ And that's the thing - they're not cheap.
I've had a look at a few EL GT's at AFD sydney - the brake boosters look the same as the std EF/EL plastic jobs - I doubt they're dual diaphragm like the AUII's.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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AUII were dual diaphragm too were they?
The massive big metal one I have on the ED from a v8 is a fantastic booster... Just made that little bit of difference to take the crappy E series brakes in the not so bad category... At the end of the day the brakes are only as good as the tires anyway... If the brake has the capability to lock the wheel then adding more braking ability has no point... Only thing to be gained is more metal taking longer to heat up and reducing brake fade... It's a maybe thing for one day anyway... I'd be probably right on it if it had a big heavy v8 in it but as I said for day to day use it's not so bad for what it is... Cheers, Tim
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| MAD |
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A guy on AFF made 2-piece rotors for EL GT brakes after he had some crack at a track day.
The centre hub/carrier is aluminium and uses a DBA outer ring. Not cheap though  http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=4940774 Corey's thread had some good info from when he made his own big brakes. There's so much more to brakes than just locking and fade. Pedal feel and being able to easily adjust your braking force is also changed. |
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| 67RCE |
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Cebco 330mm kits run a Mustang rotor and retain stock offset. I had a set, which I sold for cheap not too long ago.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| misk_one |
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can you tell me if the AU s1 ecu will run off the EF BCM smartlock?
also if it will run off S3 sensors? realising for this car i should have just gone series 1 from the start lol i fried my j3 when the ecu died so have to buy another one just to start it
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| TimmyA |
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No idea... You'll have to find an AUI wiring schematic and compare it to the e series stuff... Not sure if the output signal is the same to enable the computer on starting... Should run the sensors but... Not much changed there...
I had a heap of trouble with my J3 and hence the move to a full factory system... It's easier out in the sticks... If I lived in the big city I'd have a custom computer wired in instead... Told you it sounded immobilised to me but... You reckon it is now because the J3 isn't working? Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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i hadn't disabled smartshield in the J3 lol. woops
none of the ECUs are immobilized permanently and the cars running fine, so i just wasted a week cause i didn't burn the tune correctly haha thanks for your help though!
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| TimmyA |
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Too easy... I have an immobiliser switch in my ED as I had one for smartlock as a just in case and I found the same wire in the AU stuff and used that... The details I wont go into because it's unique to me but when it's immobilised via the switch the car will start and run for about 2 or 3 secs and then stall and wont start again... Hence why your problem sounded all along like it was immobilised and if you had the AU BEM and it was driving the globe you would have seen this no doubt and saved much head ache...
Somewhere I read if you get too excited and try too many times with the wrong key or such you'll permanently lock the car out and need the IDS to redo the pats to get the car going again... This would be it here actually documents.php?d=35 in the smartshield paragraph... Still be interested to see if it goes with the EF synchroniser or whether it throws the fuel timing out... Depends on whether it just looks at the pulse or the angle of the pulse in relation to the crank... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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I think the Ef synchroniser should work if misk has modded the 180deg vane to a small leaf to pulse the AU sensor, like it does on the Aux shaft gear.
As you know the EF setup gives you a 180deg 12v square wave. I know a few people have posted here in the past that the EF CMP unplugged still has the system working, by virtue of odds and evens bankfire. SEFI though needs that input to sequence no1 injector.
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| misk_one |
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ill check the sensor tomorrow but i did have it running with the EF sensor at one point but was running like s**t, i think that was because i had the S6 pine in the AIT place lol.
the car runs great and everything works as it should. thanks heaps for your help tim and snap etc was a good little learning experience lol at least now we know that little bit more about bastardising falcon setups
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