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TimmyA wrote: Sweet... if you have volts and earth there you should have glow... The bulb isn't something funny is it? It is the dual filament 5/20W (or whatever they are) in a 12V lamp? I've seen people force the single filament bulbs in them before... Even though they're not supposed to fit, people make them...  Is the tail light filament in it working?I suspect a lack of tail light resistance may also stop the cruise from cancelling based on how it is wired... Yeah I get attached too  yeah the filaments looked good...and yes its the off set pin dual filament globe..there both good 0.0. I just had a thought there were spears from my XE. Might be having a hissy fit over that..but then again the globe I took out the filament looked good. lol enough to drive a man to drink |
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it's the interior light fuse, not the interior light itself...
Looks don't go far with a bulb... Have you done an ohms test on it with a multimeter? Chers, tim
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TimmyA wrote: it's the interior light fuse, not the interior light itself... Looks don't go far with a bulb... Have you done an ohms test on it with a multimeter? Chers, tim No Tim not yet..you think that it might not be getting enough power ? |
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more so that, like a fuse, you can't always see a broken filament... If you check both filaments on the multimeter and prove a low impedance circuit then bulb is right...
Cheers, tim
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TimmyA wrote: more so that, like a fuse, you can't always see a broken filament... If you check both filaments on the multimeter and prove a low impedance circuit then bulb is right... Cheers, tim Bugger not my day today -_-...yes its getting 12V to the bulb holder but then i fumbled the holder and it moved the tab and earthed it out and blew a fuse and i don't have any spears just yet I will have to let it wait till Tuesday now i guess....thanks for your help Tim 
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if there is a same rated fuse on a circuit you don't need to use you can borrow that... Like the wipers or such? Will get it happening now if you need the car today...
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TimmyA wrote: if there is a same rated fuse on a circuit you don't need to use you can borrow that... Like the wipers or such? Will get it happening now if you need the car today... Na Mate it has no rego i am just trying to get it ready for rego...i did a continuity test on the 3 globes that i have...one side beeps and the other side dose not on all three globes..i am starting to think i have 3 stuffed globes -_- |
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try to avoid the beep for a globe... Just use the ohms... The bayonet is the earth side of the filaments... And one base terminal is the brake, the other is the tail light... So you 'should' read low ohms between each base terminal and the bayonet case...
What ohms readings do you get? Cheers, tim
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TimmyA wrote: try to avoid the beep for a globe... Just use the ohms... The bayonet is the earth side of the filaments... And one base terminal is the brake, the other is the tail light... So you 'should' read low ohms between each base terminal and the bayonet case... What ohms readings do you get? Cheers, tim ok here it is one side reads as 02.8...and the other is 16.01..thats the one out of the EF the other 2 i have is reading 02.8....and nothing funny thing i got this rather flashy multimeter given to me ( well i was told it was flashy Nilsen 55 ) and this is the first time i have really used it ...i was a globe and 2 wires guy before lol |
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3 ohms sounds good... 16 may be getting a bit high, but should still glow... The nothing readings, which end of the scale? Nothing as in zero ohms? Which is a short circuit, or nothing in 'ol' on the display which is infinite ohms and hence open circuit... Remember lots of ohms means little current will flow... And when you have the probes not touching on the meter, that will be showing infinite ohms...
Multimeters are brilliant for diagnosis, but the lamp and two wires are still ver handy...
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TimmyA wrote: 3 ohms sounds good... 16 may be getting a bit high, but should still glow... The nothing readings, which end of the scale? Nothing as in zero ohms? Which is a short circuit, or nothing in 'ol' on the display which is infinite ohms and hence open circuit... Remember lots of ohms means little current will flow... And when you have the probes not touching on the meter, that will be showing infinite ohms... Multimeters are brilliant for diagnosis, but the lamp and two wires are still ver handy... its just 0.l....or o.l which ever the value is Listen Tim thanks so much for going out of your way to help me hey....much appreciated
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no worries mate... I'm a sparky so happy to share some basics...
O.l. Is an over flow... Basically the number is too large to fit on the screen... Which is infinite ohms... Billions of ohms... And that my friend, is an open circuit... The filaments can break inside the base which you can't see... This is why a meter is brilliant for what it does... Cheers, tim
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TimmyA wrote: no worries mate... I'm a sparky so happy to share some basics... O.l. Is an over flow... Basically the number is too large to fit on the screen... Which is infinite ohms... Billions of ohms... And that my friend, is an open circuit... The filaments can break inside the base which you can't see... This is why a meter is brilliant for what it does... Cheers, tim lol so in other words when you get that 0.l that side of the globe is stuffed i take it. And a new globe would run about 2.8 ohms on each contact i am guessing ? and i should be getting 12 ohms / volts from each contact point in the globe holder one for the tail light and the same from the break light when pushed down ? well you have just taught this old dog some new tricks ...thank you |
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12 volts in the globe holder... because the battery puts out an "electrical pressure" (voltage) of 12 volts
around the 3 ohms on one side and the other should be more, the tail light is less bright than the brake light, so it has to use less current to achieve this... To use less current you need more resistance to the current's flow... So the tail light side of the bulb will be more resistance then the brake light side of the bulb...
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TimmyA wrote: 12 volts in the globe holder... because the battery puts out an "electrical pressure" (voltage) of 12 volts around the 3 ohms on one side and the other should be more, the tail light is less bright than the brake light, so it has to use less current to achieve this... To use less current you need more resistance to the current's flow... So the tail light side of the bulb will be more resistance then the brake light side of the bulb... Very cool thanks for that Tim. Its always a good day when you learn something new. Now that i know a bit more i can check and see if things are working as per the workshop manual
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