Hey all,
So I've purchased myself an XH Ute and the smart lock actuators have s**t themselves on both doors. I thought it would be a good idea to go out and buy a Viper alarm kit and one of those Jaycar central locking kits to replace the factory system - http://www.jaycar.com.au/Automotive-%26-Mobile-Security/Car-Electronic-Access-%26-Accessories/Keyless-Access/4-Door-Power-Lock-Kit/p/LR8812
I have wired it all up and mounted the new actuators in place where the old smart lock ones were, using the existing rods off them, but the new actuators don't seem to extend and retract far enough to successfuly lock and unlock. Either that or they don't have enough pushing and pulling power to drive the locking mechanism.

Has anyone tried to fit these Aftermarket kits and been successful?

My main question is - If I replace and reinstall the old factory actuators will I be able to wire them in to the new central locking kit attached to my viper? And how?

Thanks to anyone who can help I'm going crazy over this!

Check my build thread... I fitted full AU wiring to my ED... The Au works the same way as aftermarket actuators... The ED worked different (which I think will be the same as EL)...

I fitted after market actuators to mine and they have worked fine... But I've killed two already... So today I bought a Rhino set of actuators and controller... At least this time I'll have good quality actuators to see how long they last...

You wont be able to make the Viper drive the original actuators... The aftermarket and AU onwards type use two wires and reverse the polarity to make them lock to unlock... The smartlock type use three wires... a common and then one wire is grounded to lock and the other to unlock...

You could make an interface circuit probably... But things can get complicated and adds more parts to possibly fail if you go down this route...

Cheers,
Tim

Thanks for your reply Tim.
If I kept the orginal 12v common wire hooked up and used the other two wires of my central locking kit to trigger grounds would that work?
Cheers, adrien.

Nope... Because while it grounds one, it powers the other... Won't work as I said...

Cheers,
Tim

Ok no worries, I'll have a play around with it and see if I can integrate some relays into it to get it working. I'll let you know how I go, cheers again tim

You'll probably need 2 relays and 2 diodes to get it working... Might be able to simplify it but I'd have to draw it up to see...

Cheers,
Tim

Hey man...

I'm thinking... And I am thinking this isn't possible... At least not without modifying (if at all possible) the master actuator...



This is hard as hell to work out... This is smartlock actuators... EB through to EL have them... I am guessing XH does too... Your viper is probably like 100% of aftermarket kits... The slaves are 2 wire (reverse polarity for lock and unlock)... And the master is 5 wires?

The master has two wires for polarity reverse lock/unlock and the other three are a common and then wire is to common when locked, the other is common when unlocked... It is the feedback into the brain so it knows the state of the actuators and then makes them all suit the master... If a slave is unlocked and forced, none of the others will change because it doesn't see this...

smartlock actuators don't have this feature... I think! what the drawing is saying is... You see the common 12V+ to the top of the motor in a master... There is a slide contact driven by the motor and off that comes two wires... Yel/Blk (assuming the drawing is shown unlocked) would be lock... When locked the slide then moves over to make the other wire Red/Yel... This wire when ground should run it on to unlock and you're back to the start... I think the motor in the actuator runs one way... So if the crown wheel inside is at 12 oclock it is unlocked... Then if you pulse the Yel/Black wire it runs the crown wheel to 6oclock which is locked... It then prevents you from issuing another lock command because that slide switch is open... (if you issued a second lock command and it worked it run on to unlocked which wouldn't be ideal)... So you then pulse the Yel/Black wire to ground and it runs back to 12oclock...

Hopefully you follow that... Driving this part is easy... pulse ground one wire to lock, the other to unlock... Could get away with 2 small relays and 2 diodes...

It's the feedback to brains that is the issue... There is none... If you force the plunger up on the actuator, it operates an internal slide switch and causes the motor to unlock or lock (whichever way you operate it) as it is internally bridged to the control wires... The smartlock module doesn't drive the operation... Because all doors are linked, the module that operates drives all of them... The smartlock module must sense on the two wires it grounds to determine the door state... As you can see, the picture shows unlocked... There would be power through the motor, through the slide switch onto the Yel/Blk wire... If you connected a high impedance meter from ground to the Yel/Blk you should see voltage when unlocked... And voltage on the other wire when locked... The smartlock module watches this to know what the door state is, but when it sees a change it doesn't drive anything, the actuator does the driving, the smartlock module just thinks, oh, the state is changed...

The viper works differently It has the change over switch... It tells the viper you have unlocked the door... The viper then unlocks all the motors and accepts the changed of state...

You could make the smartlock actuator work but you'd need to separate the internal bridges so it doesn't drive the motor, bring 2 more wires out through the enclosure and then feed them into the Viper brain...


Alternatively, if you're going to find good smartlock actuators, why not let the smartlock module drive them and sell the viper kit?


As I said, my aftermarket actuators definitely have a long enough stroke and definitely have enough grunt to operate the lock... They were fairly fiddly to get right... They had to be exactly inline with where the old plunger was, and the plunger limits exactly where the old ones were... Are you sure they are working the right way? Ie, if in was locked and these are out for locked and trying to go out and not in or something weird? Just things to check before making too much work for yourself... As I said I'm sure I have photos of what I did in my build thread... The front door units were longer so i had to short the rods from the actuator to the lock assembly... This proved too hard to do accurately, so I drilled the door to sit the actuator bracket lower to gain the same effect...

Cheers,
Tim