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NZEA wrote: fiend wrote: Blah blah f**k blah Lmao good s**t, chip+laptop+everything else is gonna be so sweet. Also if you come pitch a tent we will both be looking for a patch of dirt. Get back to you on a date for barby.ToranaGuy wrote: There are some real numb skulls in the spare parts / wrecking business. " yeah sure buddy, it will fit your car " without even having a clue... They are tossers of the major variety. Keep at it man! Yeah dude, couldn't agree more. I'd use stronger words myself. A half decent parts guy is worth his weight alright.Here goes my effort for the day - spent a few hours talking trash with my mate who got back from holiday and he said that his calipers could read differences between faces by using the spike out the end (whatever) so I finally measured the input retainer accurately and did this... ![]() Due to new FordMods resizing this image, it may pay to right click on it and "VIEW IMAGE" with Firefox or just click on the Photobucket page at http://www.photobucket.com/futurlane Now I am just waiting on a clutch cable to show up from Aussieland and can start pulling auto out. Shouldn't have sold the EA-ED one I bought - I'd be pulling the auto out right now! Actually, considering lifting the manual was very very very sore on shoulder I guess I should put it off for a week. Damnit. The auto sparky disconnected the air bag computer and plugged the replacement I provided in and that fixed the air bag light. Now it's up to me to remove the dash a little and put the replacement in. I have a few other things to do behind the dash anyways, so will do it in one hit sometime soonish. And RACE DIRECTOR --- I now have a left rear door that LOCKS when you unlock the car and UNLOCKS when you lock it. Hahahahahahahah. That will be a job for the morning... Tired, sore but happy to be covered in Futur/ane juice again....
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Hey Fiend
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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fiend wrote: ![]() Speaks for itself this does... Mal Wood Auto rock. Bloody nice work guys. Happy indeed with my purchase. Only now I am interested in putting it back on the right way up!.. Hey mate I did a search on Google for T5 front bearing retainer orientation and came up with a thread on allfordmustangs and found out the round notch goes up. When you remove parts like that its best to mark the orientation before removing, normaly with a centre punch mark an the part being removed and on the body so you dont loose your mark. Cheers Josh
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| racedirector |
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Age: 49 Posts: 1456 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL GLI Fairmont Wagon :) Location: Riverstone |
fiend wrote: And RACE DIRECTOR --- I now have a left rear door that LOCKS when you unlock the car and UNLOCKS when you lock it. Hahahahahahahah. That will be a job for the morning... Tired, sore but happy to be covered in Futur/ane juice again.... LOL! Been there, done that! Bet a box of choccie fish that it is the lock arm on the wrong hole (bottom one) instead of the top one! Cheers RD
_________________ 1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear. |
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Fiend, your right about the parts dude worth his weight! Especially when they are giving you trade price because you buy so many parts there, yet you work in IT, not as a mechanic! Yes, i get trade price @ Bursons, because i have 6 car's i get parts for!
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - ED Fairmont Ghia - most parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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BenJeD wrote: Hey Fiend.Nice job, putting the T5 back together! My advice is to take it steady. The Auto is a heap... Lots of extensions and a uni joint are required.Hope your shoulder comes good soon. All god Benj. I have moved a few auto transmission and gearboxes around and can safely carry a C4 auto fifty or sixty metres as long as there are no steps in the way. I have trouble with 4WD Auto trannies - I can carry them, but getting them up off the ground with my back and all is hard, so need them to be lifted a little first. At present I only just managed to lift the bloody little T5 three or four foot and felt like I was going to pass out. So - yes - take it steady indeed. Not really my nature, but will attempt just such. Have managed to get out one auto before (a mess of a job, not without its humour) and have pulled the starter and bellhousing and flywheel with clutch out of an EB all by myself in the mud at Pick-A-Part. This is all the training I have done in preparation for the big day. josh007 wrote: Hey mate I did a search on Google for T5 front bearing retainer orientation and came up with a thread on allfordmustangs and found out the round notch goes up. When you remove parts like that its best to mark the orientation before removing, normaly with a centre punch mark an the part being removed and on the body so you dont loose your mark. Mate - a search of the net is worthwhile no? I don't do that often enough considering I am a bit of a geek. What a clown. Never mind - I looked carefully at the marks on the part and the casing and found which way it was installed originally --- and, as I was putting it back together, I just thought it would be better upside down as the notches lined up on the internal parts to provide a better oil flow around the front bearing. This is possibly what has caused the whole problem at the front of this box... Some idiot put this on upside down meaning the bearings didn't get enough oil, which means they died, which means the whole kit and cabodal shat upon itself big time. I put it on UPSIDE DOWN (which is the same way your search suggests is the RIGHT WAY UP). In other words - the care, or lack thereof, given to this T5 of mine has been astounding. It's going to love me for my efforts and operate with no issues for years to come. racingdictator wrote: fender wrote: I now have a left rear door that LOCKS when you unlock the car and UNLOCKS when you lock it. Been there, done that! Bet a box of choccie fish that it is the lock arm on the wrong hole (bottom one) instead of the top one!By the way- I know you've been there - I wouldn't have even bothered commenting on it otherwise - Just made me laugh that we had the same issues within weeks...! Isn't it even the same door? TurbonaGuy wrote: Fiend, your right about the parts dude worth his weight! Yeahp. 55% of these guys appear to be absolute no hopers, 35% are rip offs and 5% good guys and 5% complete a***hole who actually know stuff won't work when selling it to you but who must need my money more than I do.55% no hopers include ** The sand blaster who carries on about "all the V8 boys" all the time when selling me a crap M76 box out of a 3.3L mid 80's s**t as a "strong box - direct bolt on to your motor - comes out of a 99 Falcon - will also fit V8 - blah blah" 35% ripoffs include ** The mechanic guy who gave good advice but then asked for $120 for a bellhousing. I got a bellhousing, flywheel and clutch from pick-a-part for $45. I then asked him about the plastic cover and the bits to connect cable to pedal... "$100..." Hahahaha... Got another clutch, cover, fork and bearing for $20 instead. God knows how much he would have charged for a gearbox or the complete conversion kit - but I promise you he still has those parts sitting in his garage gathering dust. ** Special mention must go to FORD NZ - Input Bearing Retainer - $800... Clutch Cable $350... Clutch pedal to cable connection $100. (input retainer $100 delivered - MalWoodAuto.com... Clutch cable $60-group buy FordMods... Clutch pedal connection $6 home made) 5% GOOD GUYS ** Other than myself (go on, ask anyone... It's true I tell you) I'd have to say the likes of beNZ EA and W11 and old mate HORACE from Wainui. Some deals include - relatively nice EXTRACTORS for the old EF Mont Mags... $80 stainless exhaust from header to tailpipe... $55 XR6 steering wheel... ![]() Quote: Also nice to read about the T5, i'll probably be wanting to rebuild mine in another 12mths time. I love my EB Ghia since i converted it to the T5 manual. Yeah - I got some dude from Wellington contacting me on this site with regards to info for his own car. That's pretty full on - people actually coming to this site just to find me for advice! Anyways - the manual conversion is not to be sneezed at!! That's for freaking sure!Still have yet to get mine anywhere near the car (it has not even been in the boot of my car yet) but am getting there. At least I have a lot of advice for people on the errors and pitfalls of the conversion process! What NOT to buy, what NOT to waste time on, what NOT to pull apart and who NOT to bother asking for advice... Stay positive Fiend, there's way to many NOTs in that one paragraph. --------------------- Car still has no warrant or reg (which means $400 tickets). Will take out airbag light until such time as can work out how to get the bloody airbag computer up under the dash... I was going to do a few other things behind the dash within six months anyway.... Have it booked in for a once over with a tame workshop owner for Monday. May have to take rear sway bar off simply as it may be easier to do that than explain the system for keeping the brakelines stable... Ho hum. Should go do something about that rear door locking. Spent most of the day yesterday swearing at myself in the engine bay. I was mainly swearing at myself due to taking shortcuts with my phenolic spacer installation which I think has resulted in a leak. Car started idling at 1000 and doesn't drop revs quickly when you've floored it... All I did yesterday was change an injector... HANG ON... Let me start this again... INJECTOR ISSUE ============== Almost a year ago I had a problem with cylinder six. I posted on FORDMODS as I was meant to be driving 600km round trip for Grandads funeral and the car was running on five cylinders all of a sudden. Was given various theories, including the dreaded blown head. I fixed it by simply changing the ECU to a 4DCD in the end. The story went something like --- Pulled off all the leads, all getting spark (ouch a couple of times) Pulling lead 6 off whilst engine running did nothing to the running of the engine. Pulling spark plug out of cylinder six did nothing to running of engine (ie - it was still running the same without the spark plug in the hole!) This lead me to believe it was a fuel issue. A bit of guesswork at about 7pm in the darkness got me swapping computers. At 8.30pm after borrowing money for petrol I was on my way to Grandads farewell gig in a beautifully running 6 cylinder car. This lead me to believe that the original computer was f**k. A decent guess seemed to be that the injector was f**k and was destroying the computer somehow. This is what I found yesterday --- ![]() One totally broken injector alright. I replaced it with one from a similar Ford, but the part numbers are slightly different and put everything back on. Is now perfect - Engine is running smoother and throttle response seems a lot better (could just be due to cleaning throttle out entirely of muck). It even idles smoothly in gear now, although in the habit of hitting neutral anyways... And that, is another large posting from Fiend. It's worth reading in a roundabout kind of a way. As an example of odd things happening, it is interesting. Not quite like X-files or Twilight Zone, but nonetheless quirky.
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I wasn't going to... But hey, who cares...
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| Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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nice detective work.
_________________ EF classic Wagon dual fuel 364000klm |
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My black airbag was purely a spare one I had which was cleaned up with degreaser, dishwashing water and scrubber brush, slightly roughed up with a light steel wool and sand paper, dried real good and sprayed with vinyl paint... It's been there nine months or longer and looks sweet even tho I toot the horn more than most. It's the best looking bit of kit touched with that re-colour vinyl stuff actually. Fully pro, other than moving up to the AU ones...
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fiend wrote: My black airbag was purely a spare one I had which was cleaned up with degreaser, dishwashing water and scrubber brush, slightly roughed up with a light steel wool and sand paper, dried real good and sprayed with vinyl paint... It's been there nine months or longer and looks sweet even tho I toot the horn more than most. It's the best looking bit of kit touched with that re-colour vinyl stuff actually. Fully pro, other than moving up to the AU ones... Now trying to talk the guy into giving me a EF XR6 MANUAL ECU and a clear repeater for $150. Mate - Next time I find a wreck to wreck, I'll be charging top dollar for bloody everything. Even tho I made around $2000 out of the last one, that was a while ago and am sick to the back teeth of having to pay for these bloody parts through my nose! Cheers Rickbrother. I paid $150 for my auto ecu from aus...
_________________ 1990 EAII, BBM, EL ECU, T5, LSD - SOLD |
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Broke NZ guys wrote: I paid $150 for my auto ecu from aus... s**t. Mate, you so should have let me find one for you. I coulda done one for $100 and made $60! That could have paid for a weeks worth of food and a new pair of shoes from the op shop.Phaaarrrrkkk... (disappointing) Mate - wish I'd never put that BBM on the scrap pile now too (KNEW that would happen when I sold it as scrap for $10 coz no one wanted it...) Have a good plan for the BBM and the larger throttle body that I have to find $200 AU to pay for quick smart. Fiendbot Auto Fordmod Updater ver 666.A wrote: UPDATE RECEIVED
data_inc="PEDAL.JPG" verbal_crapola="Todays update is that I went to get a warrant and discovered the auto is on its way out (knew that anyway, surprised it has lasted this long) and was failed for the airbag light being on (I know, I know, it will be done) and the left wheel bearing was rubbing. To my disgust I went to auto shop and bought a wheel bearing and saw the price had been reduced on these pedals. Pulled the left wheel off all the way and found that there was no seal in the back and a bit of pumice had wedged itself in there creating a noise very similar to a stuffed bearing. The bearings were fine. Put the new ones in anyway, along with the rubber seal bit that was missing from whomever did it last. Put the new pedals in. Took some doing. Didn't bother with the bloody stupid "universal fit" things and drilled straight through the pedals and used stainless square drive screws with washers on back to hold them instead. Means I have a pile of left over little bits for the mates garage to absorb into its various nooks and crannies." received="Fiend_Sony_k850i" date="16_02_09:20:16" ![]()
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Hey mate, As we south aussies dont have to get a warrant for rego I have no idea about how hard it is to pass? we just register our cars when we need to for 3,6 or 12 months. Even if the rego is out of date for 2 years!
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joshieT5007 wrote: Hey mate, as we south Aussies don't have to get a warrant for rego I have no idea about how hard it is to pass? we just register our cars when we need to for 3,6 or 12 months. Even if the rego is out of date for 2 years! Damn. That sounds like a cool place. Some of USA was like that too a while back. We have to have continuous rego - if you miss a month or two not only do you get $200 fine but you have to back pay all the difference before they'll issue an up to date one. Hey - check this link out... Classic... http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=th3221&search=Check Have a look at the odometer readings near the bottom.Quote: I hate wheel bearings, I had one collapse on me once. I was only traveling 60 at the time and i was so close to home i kept driving really slow lol. Slow is good when it comes to that side of things I guess. Would suggest it not happening in the first place would be even better mind you....Quote: The pedals look good mate, why do you have 4? The right one is "GO". Second to right is "STOP". Second to left is "SPLIT MOTOR FROM MANUAL BOX". Far left is "MAKE AUTO BOX SHIFT SO FAST IT CHIRPS THE WHEELS AND GOES A LITTLE SIDEWAYS IN THE WET".As you know, I have not got the manual box in yet, so the "split engine from gearbox" pedal is still not doing anything. When the gearbox goes in the "make auto tranny grip like s**t" pedal will be removed or converted to do the high beam / low beam toggle. Or maybe the diving lights on / off to separate them from the parklamp circuit... Hmmmm...
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fiend, i have an EF manual ECU for sale if your interested, but am chasing near what i paid for seeming as it took me ages to find one. Will be $165 plus whatever post is to NZ |
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fiend wrote: Broke NZ guys wrote: I paid $150 for my auto ecu from aus... s**t. Mate, you so should have let me find one for you. I coulda done one for $100 and made $60! That could have paid for a weeks worth of food and a new pair of shoes from the op shop.Phaaarrrrkkk... (disappointing) Mate - wish I'd never put that BBM on the scrap pile now too (KNEW that would happen when I sold it as scrap for $10 coz no one wanted it...) Have a good plan for the BBM and the larger throttle body that I have to find $200 AU to pay for quick smart. I know, twas before I met you...had been getting the runaround from sh!t wreckers trying to sell me EF ones instead of EL etc, was getting desperate... Twin throttle body on the BBM would be awesome...or are you thinking front entry intake?????
_________________ 1990 EAII, BBM, EL ECU, T5, LSD - SOLD |
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NZEA the brains of the operation wrote: I know, twas before I met you...had been getting the runaround from sh!t wreckers trying to sell me EF ones instead of EL etc, was getting desperate... Yeah, they're all fulla s**t. Even this latest guy who I was getting the wheel, clear repeaters and XR6 manual ECU from - it's a bloody auto and he could not find one of the clear repeaters for $196.66. That cool tho, I'm back to getting the wheel by itself for $66.66 delivered now.Quote: Twin throttle body on the BBM would be awesome...or are you thinking front entry intake????? Oh my gawd. You are a clever bloody dude aren't you? Just who else would have seen through my cunning plans with that ease? Holy s**t, that's why I keep you on.Appears as tho my brake booster has totally failed. Just about T-Boned some idiot chick in a red Ricer that kept coming forward even tho she was meant to give way... I stomped on brake and very little bloody well happened, meaning a swerve into the other lane with approaching traffic dodging. Bloody hell, what a way to find out your brakes aren't there any more. Still, I suppose the only way to find out you have no brakes is to use them and find they've gone home without bothering to say goodbye. Rank. Tried bleeding the brakes entirely. A bit of dirty fluid but no bubbles or nothing. Pedal feels rock hard but I cannot depress it enough with all my weight to get the car to stop very good. Watched the entire firewall start moving in and out when old mate Geoff stomped on them for me - and I could have just about have left a finger in between the rotor and the pad and not even have been concerned with crushing it. All I can think of is the brake booster / master cylinder replacement. Which I will be doing tomorrow, along with fitting a new steering wheel and sorting out that bloody air bag light. Never done a brake booster thingymi before.... What could possibly go wrong?! Going to have to hope Geoff's not up to much again. All that twisting a car work is killing me.
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sounds like your brake booster has a split in it. very common with headers fitted as the booster gets very hot.
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A few cars over in the west run twin throttle bodies on their hot 6's, both on the bbm but entry is on top. not front. They are both on XR6's (El's ) and are up over the 200rwhp mark (one is closer to 240).
_________________ Because of Beer, Thirst is a Beautiful Thing! |
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Rick's Famous Wagon wrote: sounds like your brake booster has a split in it. very common with headers fitted as the booster gets very hot. Heat shields are required.the twin throttle body has been tried by fordfreak see his thread. If the search function was working...!!!....!!!...!!!...Thanks for the help regarding the brake booster Rickdude. I was going to lag the extractors at one point, but they look so s**t I couldn't bring myself to do it. Then again, holes in your bonnet look s**t too, and I did that! I was hoping the holes in the bonnet would reduce the heat problems associated with extractors, but I guess having a hunk of bloody plastic up on the firewall containing your brake booster is asking for it. Yeah, I wasn't going to go for the front entry, unless a second throttle body was at the back too. Was actually thinking of a 68mm throttle body on opposite side to normal BBM input, but am now leaning towards putting another throttle on the opposing side (dual throttle, opposing each other at centre of BBM). Schnooodler wrote: A few cars over in the west run twin throttle bodies on their hot 6's, both on the bbm but entry is on top. not front. They are both on XR6's (El's ) and are up over the 200rwhp mark (one is closer to 240). Nice work mate, good to see someone thinking outside the square. Cheers Westy bro. Seems like they are thinking along the same lines as me (or I am thinking along same lines to them as the case may be - let's not get into another "I invented it first and you can see I invented it first so therefore you cannot claim it is an original idea" thread! Phark that.) Besides which, putting two throttles onto the BBM is about the easiest way to put a bigger, free flowing, less turbulent air flow into your motor, if that's what you want to do.It's a good idea I think. Am not going to get too "white coat wearing" on the science of it at present (thank your lucky stars...) but it has a number of things going for it. Having the throttles opening in a staggered formation may take some effort to get going well, but I'll manage.
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fiend wrote: Yeah, I wasn't going to go for the front entry, unless a second throttle body was at the back too. Nah all I was thinking of the front entry was for a single trottle body, somehow for hooking up a super charger easier like the logs, the plan is flawed and would need a channel to let the air get to the top of all 6 runners, but it was just a micro second thought...
_________________ 1990 EAII, BBM, EL ECU, T5, LSD - SOLD |
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