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| justfordima |
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smartlock would always have a constant 12V. it can't just be an ACC, because it stores memory which needs power. As for those wires.. it wouldn't be hard to figure out what each one does... is there a wiring diagram for these in teh genuine ford workshop manual?
Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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I may find a way to modify existing barrels. Bu that may be a security risk. I'll find out more, and will keep y'all posted on my progress.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| xpression |
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yeh true that actually.. ill check 2morro...
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| justfordima |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I may find a way to modify existing barrels. Bu that may be a security risk. I'll find out more, and will keep y'all posted on my progress.
I still think that hooking a relay from your alarm up to one of those wires will be good enough. As in when you arm your car, it locks the car, closes windows whatever and also closes a relay, in between one of those wires... hence enabling smart lock.. then when you disarm it, it connects those wires back up (with the relay) and smartlock deactivated. at the press of a button.. you can also run it parallel with the remote starter relay. Security risk minimal... as its the same thing as before, just smartlock gets deactivated only when you unlock your car not when you turn the key. Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I actually know a guy several years back who accidentally started his car from inside a crowded party. A smart a*** in the front yard jumped in and mashed the accelerator (very quick and very nice lx torana) and drove it straight into a pole (steering lock still engaged obviously). So yeah each to their own (just be careful).
A lot of the remote start alarms still work as alarms, once you enter the car without turning the alarm off, the alarm shuts down the engine and disables it. Waste of time if the alarm didn't do this and it would be no better than a turbo timer, anyone can enter most cars with a turbo timer and drive off, I have actually been for a drive in a 4WD where the owner forgot he only had the keys in the ignition, lucky for him the keys needed to be removed for the steering lock to work. As for starting the car by accident, when they first came out they had a timer on them, so I can't see a good one these days not having a timer in them. I personally do not think manual cars should be allowed to use remote start, that requires a gear selector sender and most gearboxes don't have one.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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My alarm will kill the remote start if...
- the doors a opened (unlikely because the remote start doesn't unlock the doors) - the brake pedal is touched - a configurable timer is reached (so your don't forget about your car) And if you do unlock the doors and get in, you have to insert the key ignition key and turn it to on to disable the other safeguards on the alarm.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| pyroay |
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Age: 46 Posts: 2121 Joined: 14th Dec 2004 Ride: FG Turbo Territoty Ghia Location: Traralgon |
{USERNAME} wrote: .....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees.
Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value.
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: .....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees. Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value. There is the unlucky reverse side too, +40c temps, who would prefer to get into a nice cool car instead of a +60c hot one.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: .....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees. Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value. There is the unlucky reverse side too, +40c temps, who would prefer to get into a nice cool car instead of a +60c hot one. That's what I want
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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ok... according to the ED Workshop manaul the Electronic Lock Assembly (the smartlock bit of the barrel) has the following inputs/outputs.
* Ground - Black Wire * Power Supply - Brown-Green * Clock - Blue - Orange * Data Input/Output - Green -Violet |
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| justfordima |
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do you know if there's any kind of sensor in there that uses the data input/output wire? also do you know what the clock does...?
Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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| data_mine |
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The clock is used to syncronise the data signal.
ie. so when a clock line goes high* it's the right time to read a bit from the data line. This prevents the BEM reading the signal bit while it is in the middle of changing. *maybe low, I'm unsure
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| data_mine |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ok... according to the ED Workshop manaul the Electronic Lock Assembly (the smartlock bit of the barrel) has the following inputs/outputs.
* Ground - Black Wire * Power Supply - Brown-Green * Clock - Blue - Orange * Data Input/Output - Green -Violet Got mine today: Black Brown Blue/White Green/Red Not sure if's an EF or EL lock. Just got to figure out how to open it up, get out the circuitry. edit:
Need to get that brass bit off.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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I just tried to see if I could get the new lock working befor eI go pulling it apart...
I followed this: (http://www.fordmods.com/phpBB2/documents.php?doc=49) Quote: The immobilised state is indicated by the Smartlock warning jewel (LED) as a rapid flash rate.
The system enters the immobilised state if Smartlock receives at least two incorrect codes when the ignition switch is turned to On. When the car is in the immobilised state, you cannot start the engine, as the BEM has disabled both the starter motor, and the EEC-V system. If the cause of the immobilisation is a corruption of the codes during transfer, you should be able to start the car on the second attempt. Note : The remote keypads will still operate on an immobilised car, however an immobilised car will not display the immobilised flash with the ignition off, and will display the armed code as normal. If the cause is an unauthorised attempt to start the car, i.e. by hot wiring, the car will remain unstartable. However to prevent a vehicle from being completely immobilised, (Eg. due to a damaged electronic lock assembly data), you can start the car by using the method below. The following method must be used if the BEM, or the electronic module has been replaced, so as the new Codes from the electronic Ignition Switch are RE-LEARNT. 1. Turn all accessories off. 2. Turn the ignition to the On position. The Smartlock warning Jewel (LED) will flash any error codes, then finally the immobilised code. 3. Leave the car for 30 Minutes. 4. After 30 Minutes, the BEM will attempt to relearn the electronic lock assembly data. 5. If the learning procedure is successful, the warning jewel (LED) will then stop flashing and the door locks will change state twice. You can now start the car, and operate it as normal. 6. If the learning procedure is unsuccessful, the warning jewel (LED) will stop flashing and stay on, and you can start the engine. After 45-mins sitting in the car on a 28°C day in direct sun, I gave up. Plugged my original lock back in, and it started as normal. *grrr* did I not wait long enough. edit: damn, my gregory's manual says 30-60 minutes. Might have to wait for a cooler day.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| altedxr6 |
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Okay, have some more info .. dunno if it helps or not, its from the EF/EL service manual .
switch to the ingnition and wait until the smartlock light lamp stops flashing, it can take anywhere from 30-60mins after the locks cycle, somewhere between 30-60mins, you only have 30sec's to start the car with the new barrel and key . if you don't do it in that 30secs, you have to repeat the whole procedure again! |
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