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How can I check my MAFS? 

 

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 Post subject: How can I check my MAFS?
Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:00 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA mkII XR8

Location: NEWCASTLE
NSW, Australia

Can anyone tell me how to test my mafs to see if it is working properly?
my fuel consumption has gone berko, sometimes I get up to 450km to a 68L tank and other times on the same weekly route to work I am getting the red fuel light after 320km.
Another sign is the old girl has the biggest flat spot if I open the throttle quickly, And when accelerating at the lights I find the car has a spot around 3200rpm where it feels like secondaries are opening (like a power band or so?) AND I find it accelerates quicker to 3000rpm if I only open the throttle 3/4
If it had a carby I'd say the accelerator pump curcuit was not working properly, my plugs are as white as snow also?????????????????????????
thanks :kenny :?: :?:

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 1:20 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 320kw BA XR8

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To test it you really have to measure the voltage of ECU wire 50 to see what is happening. THe stock values are 0.6v at idle, 1.1v at 32kph, 1.7v at 64kph and 2.1v at 96kph, but this will change if you have done mods to your car. The problem doesn't sound like a faulty MAF but quite possible a dirty MAF which is common, especially if you run filters like k&n or any other oiled reusable filter. To clean it the best way is to remove the electronics (need security torx bits) and spray the sensor wires and inside the MAF body and passages with carby cleaner. If you don't want to take the electronics off you can just spray down the sensor holes but obviously thats not as good. Also Make sure you let the carby cleaner dry before reassembling or reconnecting the MAF.
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Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 3:37 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA mkII XR8

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EDXR8 wrote:
To test it you really have to measure the voltage of ECU wire 50 to see what is happening. THe stock values are 0.6v at idle, 1.1v at 32kph, 1.7v at 64kph and 2.1v at 96kph, but this will change if you have done mods to your car. The problem doesn't sound like a faulty MAF but quite possible a dirty MAF which is common, especially if you run filters like k&n or any other oiled reusable filter. To clean it the best way is to remove the electronics (need security torx bits) and spray the sensor wires and inside the MAF body and passages with carby cleaner. If you don't want to take the electronics off you can just spray down the sensor holes but obviously thats not as good. Also Make sure you let the carby cleaner dry before reassembling or reconnecting the MAF.

Thanks for the specs i'll have to check em out, as for dirty i've cleaned the thing about 5 times now just in hope i did miss some build up, but it makes no difference.
Did you know instead of buying security torx bits , you can get a $2 screwdriver set from where ever and drill out the centre? they are soft enough to drill but hard enough to undo the screws without marking them
does it make much difference having a 3.45 diff, the rpm is a little higher at these speeds than the majority
I also forgot to mention I run a pod filter, heads have been flowed substantially ,as the manifold and compression is up to 9.98:1, but at the moment for a couple more weeks the fuel supply is stock
thanks:kenny

 

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