good to see that you may have finally solved your problem.... sometimes just the stupidest things can cause so much hassle cant they?

just dont try to work out how much the stuffing around and buying of new parts cost you

Lucky ford parts are cheap, and it should be reliable now... for awhile

Looks like I spoke too soon... its dead again!

Ive had it running on and off for an hour or so this morn... took it for a 10min joy/test run ( farout it flies:) ) go home, idled for 2mins and it died... now just cranks over and over...

ive run out of ideas now... ecu is all I can think of now, I unplugged it and plugged it back in, but still no start

crank angle sensor (if EL's have one, not sure)
like u said something not right in the dizzy) 3 months is a long time if it was made faulty, or another earth somewhere...

Must be a voltage thing... the voltage drops to 13.8 so Im rewiring the earths

is that the voltage when its just sitting there? if it is, i doesnt really mean anything, get a mate to check the voltage while you're cranking it. thats the real test.

also, when i advanced the timing (without a timing light ) on my EB, it idled fine for about 1min, then it just died all of a sudden, i turned it back to stock and it was fine.

useless anecdote over...

Chris, check that you're getting 12v (or 10-11v) (red/green wire) to the coil after it dies while cranking it over. If you're not, then it isn't the ignition system at fault. No doubt you've tried this many times already, but test it again just in case.
No strange smartlock light flashing after it dies?? - shouldn't be, as smartlock blocks starter motor operation as well.
You need to be sure it is an ignition thing and not a fuel thing.

If you're sure fuel is okay, and power is getting to the coil, as previously mentioned the TFI could be playing up - when it's installed to the dizzy there should be heatsink paste (looks like white paste) between it and the dizzy body - if not, you'll fry it.
Possibly the TFI works fine when cold, and when hot with the car in motion, the airflow may be enough to keep it at a 'safe' temperature - when stopped or stationery, it might heat up and stop.

Check the hall effect device in the dizzy and the TFI plug for crap buildup.

Other than what's been mentioned, that's about all I can suggest without actually seeing the car.

I think ive fixed it... when i moved the battery to the other side of the bay I dint put an earth strap from bat to the body, only bat to eng. Once I put one on, volts went to 14.3 at idle and it hasnt died yet. I havnt accually driven it yet, just idled it in the driveway for a few hours and turned it on and off...
I'll take it for a drive round and around and around the block... 3 tow trucks in 2 weeks so I wont go far from home

Now I cant get the dizzy in right... crank on the TDC indicator, rotor pointing at no.1 lead and it should start?? IS that right?