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3.9 Cam Variations 

 

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 Post subject: 3.9 Cam Variations
Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:34 pm 
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Hey i am just wonderin is there cams out the to suit the ea and eb 1 3.9 head as i own a eb 3.9 and it is a low km engine 154thou kms and wondering are there cams out there.. i am really after a cam that would give more alleration and i don't really care

if it gives toruque etc etc just after one that would give a noticable increase in alleration,,,, not sure what are out there and not really upto scratch with themm.. the cam i would want to purchase i would want to pay get it and my father i can "chuck it in" in a weekend???

cheers
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:45 pm 
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what's alleration ? :P

There are many cams for these engines, and it doesn't matter if they are 3.9 or 4.0 they are all interchangeable apart from the late EL motors. The cheapest ones being wade cams who have a good variety, the are $135 exchange, then you need shims. There is a sticky at the top of this section with a lot more info, so have a read through that.
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 8:10 pm 
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yeah i had a flick through the listing and various cam stuff.. so if i got some a cam and exchange type of thing and shims were could these be sources???

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:15 pm 
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huh ?
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:20 pm 
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sorry a bit p****d me thinks... where does one get shims from a ford dealer.. like would i go in there and explain got a aftermarket blah blah cam and need shims. what are exactly are these shims ( iprolly seen them prior but not know there name)

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:39 pm 
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i have a full set of shims from a 3.9

$4 each plus postage.

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:40 pm 
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If you're purchasing a Wade cam you need 1.9mm shims, which are available from Ford dealers for $5 each. Prior to buying them, you may want to get EF rocker gear as it's better made than those on the EA (so a cylinder head reconditioner tells me).

The shims fit behind the hydraulic adjusters on each rocker to compensate for the cam being reground.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:47 am 
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cheers guys i will look back in to this after xmas and yeah i think i will get a cam.. i will prolly check back and get some info and experiances of you guys..

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 10:43 am 
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only bother with a cam if you have a full exhaust and at minimum xh snorkel or it wont do much.

if its auto get a wade 1636 if its manual get a wade 977b.


wreckers will usually charge $4 for the entire set of 12 shims. EA-some eb2's run larger shims in diameter than later eb2-el(pre hybrid) but all are 1.9mm thick. you will need to take one shim out from you car just to make sure you have the right shims.

installing a cam is a pretty simple process, once youve done it a few times its about a 20-30 minute job.


also if you get a billet cam ($450 or so +) then you dont need to bother with shims. but the shims really arent much of a hassle and once shimmed theres no difference between a billet and a regrind.

also with wade cams you pay them $235 and get the new cam, then return your old standard one for a $100 refund.(or get another cam from the wreckers and give them that before hand if you dont have the extra $100 to outlay.)
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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:18 pm 
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akademiks wrote:
only bother with a cam if you have a full exhaust and at minimum xh snorkel or it wont do much.

if its auto get a wade 1636 if its manual get a wade 977b.


wreckers will usually charge $4 for the entire set of 12 shims. EA-some eb2's run larger shims in diameter than later eb2-el(pre hybrid) but all are 1.9mm thick. you will need to take one shim out from you car just to make sure you have the right shims.

installing a cam is a pretty simple process, once youve done it a few times its about a 20-30 minute job.

My car has extractors, 2.5 exhaust system straight through (one centre muffler) and a cat converter from early 3.8 v6 holden.... it is a manual... and when it doesn't rain it will have an xh snorkel... so after chritsmas it should be ready for a basic cam so you suggest 977b cool


also if you get a billet cam ($450 or so +) then you dont need to bother with shims. but the shims really arent much of a hassle and once shimmed theres no difference between a billet and a regrind.

also with wade cams you pay them $235 and get the new cam, then return your old standard one for a $100 refund.(or get another cam from the wreckers and give them that before hand if you dont have the extra $100 to outlay.)

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:20 pm 
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akademiks wrote:
only bother with a cam if you have a full exhaust and at minimum xh snorkel or it wont do much.

if its auto get a wade 1636 if its manual get a wade 977b.


wreckers will usually charge $4 for the entire set of 12 shims. EA-some eb2's run larger shims in diameter than later eb2-el(pre hybrid) but all are 1.9mm thick. you will need to take one shim out from you car just to make sure you have the right shims.

installing a cam is a pretty simple process, once youve done it a few times its about a 20-30 minute job.

also if you get a billet cam ($450 or so +) then you dont need to bother with shims. but the shims really arent much of a hassle and once shimmed theres no difference between a billet and a regrind.

also with wade cams you pay them $235 and get the new cam, then return your old standard one for a $100 refund.(or get another cam from the wreckers and give them that before hand if you dont have the extra $100 to outlay.)


My car has extractors, 2.5 exhaust system straight through (one centre muffler) and a cat converter from early 3.8 v6 holden.... it is a manual... and when it doesn't rain it will have an xh snorkel... so after chritsmas it should be ready for a basic cam so you suggest 977b cool

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:24 pm 
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yes mate sounds alike a 977b is a perfect match for it. very good bang for buck. you notice a change in the power band right away as long as you adjust the timing to suit. also alot more torque which is very noticable you you hammer into 2nd gear.
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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:27 pm 
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akademiks wrote:
yes mate sounds alike a 977b is a perfect match for it. very good bang for buck. you notice a change in the power band right away as long as you adjust the timing to suit. also alot more torque which is very noticable you you hammer into 2nd gear.


yeah with that timing how would one change the timing like adjusting the chain a few teeth or something??? i will go a look at the wade site right now

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 3:05 pm 
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nah dont change the teeth rotate the dizzy cap

if you dont really know what you are doing its best to get someone who does as if you screw it up can do some prtty bad damage to the engine reliability wise
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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 4:32 pm 
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akademiks wrote:
nah dont change the teeth rotate the dizzy cap

if you dont really know what you are doing its best to get someone who does as if you screw it up can do some prtty bad damage to the engine reliability wise


oh that's simple enough.. so just move til engine runs and idles smooth like is it the same or similair to advancing the timing

 

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