92 EB Falcon 4.0ltr.
Ok, Iv had a split heater hose - the one on the left at the firewall, to replace it iv had to remove the right one to get to it. as I'v pulled out the right hose the copper pipe came along with it - the first thing is:

Is it glue holding the copper pipe in place or solder.

The second thing is- im thinking about removing the heating system and would like to know how to bypass it so i can get the car back on the road.

here is a photo of the two heater hoses i have removed as reference.

much appreciated guys. am thinking bypassing the lot would be more simple than playing unneccesary doctor with the car haha.

 

 

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File comment: The hose on the left is from the right side of the firewall - copper pipe came along with it. Hose on the left is what split in the first place! Heater Hose.jpg [ 283.75 KiB | Viewed 178 times ]

oh no. you've pulled the heater core pipe out with it. dash out job to replace the heater core. or just bypass it like you said

reckon you could tell me how to bypass it mate - i had to force it off it just wouldnt move.

what you should've done was get a razor blade. cut both hoses of inline with the hose end. then replaced both hoses. to bypass just put both heater ends of the pipes together with the bit you broke off in the middle lol

If you want to, you can completely remove the metal pipe that goes around the back of the engine.

I enjoyed the massive amounts of dead cat swinging room under my manifold. So I removed anything that wasn't needed.
I also did it in sections, as the intake manifold had to come off at one stage, I did half of it, and when I did my extractors I took off the other half, although now I'm finished fiddling on the intake side it's now a 10 minute job to remove for ease of access to starter motor, dizzy, or whatever else you are under there for.
To start, I got 2 blanking plugs.
Cut the metal pipe as it comes out of the thermostat housing, leaving enough pipe sticking out to push the blanking plug over and to up with a hose clamp. Then cut the metal pipe again at the back of the motor just before it curves behind the head. Blank this and you can now remove all heater hoses, and the chunk of metal pipe as well as the small bypass hose. While you have the intake manifold off put in some new welch plugs while your there...

Later when I did my extractors and had the exhaust off I cut the metal pipe right at the corner at the back of the head and pulled that piece out, then holding the rest of the pipe wiggled it till it came out of the hole in the water pump outlet. Using quicksteel I plugged up this hole. NOTE I also undid the lower hose so I could put my fingers inside to squash the quicksteel into tue hole good. Try not to let it bulge into the outlet itself and restrict water flow, also clean the hole well and scuff it up around the outer lip to ensure the quicksteel grips good (I hav had one plug blow off cos i didn't mould it from the inside too). Swap your welch plugs again there too (I didnt, on both sides and had to remove intake and exhaust at later times...in hindsight it makes sense to do it while I'm already there...)

So now, it's all removed from my car, my only concern was circulation messing with the cooling system, but that's never even changed it's performance and the car never overheats.

Mind you all this was combined with other jobs. My coil died and oil sender was leaking so I figured pulling the intake would allow 3+ jobs in one, and now I can undo my dizzy cap by hand easily, I also chucked the support bracket from under the manifold as far as I could. It made it nice and easy to remove when I did my head gasket.