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| Deff |
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Hey guys, just picked one of these up for the wife. What do I need to look out for with these ones? It's a VCT powered beasty.
    
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
the VCT adjuster thing at the front of the head. check that for oil leaks. apart from that just the other typical 4L things.
suspension wise ball joint lol
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| efxr6wagon |
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Yep, the VCT unit at the front of the head. I haven't dealt with that leak yet, so not sure how to fix it.
If you have the Ford 6-disc in-dash CD changer, it has a habit of jamming expensively ($400 to fix properly at APS Automedia). You will have the IRS, which tended to have two problems (mine had both). - The rubber isolators at the top of the rear shocks compress over time, and the nuts on the top of the shocks run out of thread, so the top of the shock is loose and will rattle. You can pay many hundreds to replace the isolators, OR.... you can put two or three thick washers under the shock nuts to take up the slack - problem fixed safely for $5. - If you have LSD, you might get chatter once warmed up. Apparently, they were set up incorrectly from the factory, and developed hot spots on the cones. Any diff shop or mechanic that has experience with these should be able to fix it reasonably cheaply. I think they just remove the tight spots with emery cloth. Then fill it up with Redline 80w140. Hope this helps.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| Deff |
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efxr6wagon wrote: Yep, the VCT unit at the front of the head. I haven't dealt with that leak yet, so not sure how to fix it. If you have the Ford 6-disc in-dash CD changer, it has a habit of jamming expensively ($400 to fix properly at APS Automedia). You will have the IRS, which tended to have two problems (mine had both). - The rubber isolators at the top of the rear shocks compress over time, and the nuts on the top of the shocks run out of thread, so the top of the shock is loose and will rattle. You can pay many hundreds to replace the isolators, OR.... you can put two or three thick washers under the shock nuts to take up the slack - problem fixed safely for $5. - If you have LSD, you might get chatter once warmed up. Apparently, they were set up incorrectly from the factory, and developed hot spots on the cones. Any diff shop or mechanic that has experience with these should be able to fix it reasonably cheaply. I think they just remove the tight spots with emery cloth. Then fill it up with Redline 80w140. Hope this helps. Awesome advise mate, exactly what I was looking for, problems too look for to save me $$$ down the road  WILDEB wrote: the VCT adjuster thing at the front of the head. check that for oil leaks. apart from that just the other typical 4L things. suspension wise ball joint lol Ball Joints, my old nemesis lol |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
Deff wrote: efxr6wagon wrote: Yep, the VCT unit at the front of the head. I haven't dealt with that leak yet, so not sure how to fix it. If you have the Ford 6-disc in-dash CD changer, it has a habit of jamming expensively ($400 to fix properly at APS Automedia). You will have the IRS, which tended to have two problems (mine had both). - The rubber isolators at the top of the rear shocks compress over time, and the nuts on the top of the shocks run out of thread, so the top of the shock is loose and will rattle. You can pay many hundreds to replace the isolators, OR.... you can put two or three thick washers under the shock nuts to take up the slack - problem fixed safely for $5. - If you have LSD, you might get chatter once warmed up. Apparently, they were set up incorrectly from the factory, and developed hot spots on the cones. Any diff shop or mechanic that has experience with these should be able to fix it reasonably cheaply. I think they just remove the tight spots with emery cloth. Then fill it up with Redline 80w140. Hope this helps. Awesome advise mate, exactly what I was looking for, problems too look for to save me $$$ down the road WILDEB wrote: the VCT adjuster thing at the front of the head. check that for oil leaks. apart from that just the other typical 4L things. suspension wise ball joint lol Ball Joints, my old nemesis lol totally agreed lol
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| xcabbi |
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I see you have the tape deck head unit with the boot mounted stacker. Also, has your dash been changed or did the fairmont ghias get the series II dash. It doesn't look right with the grey LCD odometer and amber LCD for the tripmeter/climate control.
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| Deff |
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xcabbi wrote: I see you have the tape deck head unit with the boot mounted stacker. Also, has your dash been changed or did the fairmont ghias get the series II dash. It doesn't look right with the grey LCD odometer and amber LCD for the tripmeter/climate control. Odometer is amber too, just the lighting I think I can't get the radio to go, the owners manual is missing and I don't know the Code to unlock it as battery has been out. 
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| xcabbi |
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Your Ford dealer should be able to unlock the radio for you. Not a bad sounding stereo but could definitely do with a bigger sub amp.
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