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Adam's headgasket thread. 

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:46 am 
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Ummm, lifters, they are... good, lol. I have no idea mate.

F**k, so much help, PM me with any prices and all that guys, lol.

IOUs for whoever helps! Yay! lol.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 3:59 pm 
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ive just got to the stage of sending my head away, and have read/ found some stuff that may help....
NUMBER 1 is to make sure you either have a 10mm ratchet spanner or a 1/4" drive socket with a 10mm. It makes removeing the bbm so much easier.
you have to do the inlet manifold in 2 halves, the tophalf first, then the fuelrail/injectors and then the bottom. but make sure you disconect evrything first. iirc theres about 4 plugs under the bbm into the block/coilpack that need undoing and some are a pain. also 3 brackets hold it on. then you can do the bottom half. as this is very very sharp, you probably will cut yourself trying to juggle it
not entirekly sure you need the timing cover off, mines still on but i removed the p/steering pump first and used a little plug on the side to loosen the tension.
also, use an impact socket as u need to use a 100mm extension bar to get the head bolts off and theres a good chance you could round some bolts with a 12 point socet as they tend to be very tight and seised for the first half turn. its 14mm and only like 8 bux so well worth it.
also, its a must taht you use anti seize on the exhaust manifold bolts or youll have a fun time next time you take them off.
dont forget to spin the crank to TDC and use a screwdriver through spark plug hole number one to see when its at TDC.
also, its not neccesary to take the radiator out, i left mine in and once the fans are out theres heaps of room.
it also pays to replace you thermostat gasket as they tend t get retty bad pretty quick.
on a sisde note, if you try to buy an au steel gasket from anywhere but ford, they are identical to the e series ones and are fibreous. only ford stock the steel one. everywhere elese will say they share the same part number.... but at ford they dont.
and also, i didnt have a rocker cover gasket....is that normal?

oh as for prices, ive got all my stuff for 240 bux including cooalnt, oil, oil filter, spark plug leads, plugs, steel head gasket, bolts, gasket kit, thread lock, anti seize, gasket sealant. so if i get the head shave for 55 bux, a clean and crack test for 60 bux it works out to be well under what most would expect....
just at the end of it expect some pretty cut up knuckle and arms :o
ood luck, just keep using this thread if you need help as ill keep an eye on it and help where i can :)
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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:21 pm 
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:!:

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:34 pm 
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Thanks Moody.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:30 pm 
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Yeah don't take the radiator out, would be a stupid idea to get it flushed while the head is being done.
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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:33 pm 
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

Yea, that would be a huge waste of 5 minutes to remove it...

Last edited by the_scotsman on Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:02 pm 
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and dont do your timing chain tensioners either :roll: :roll:

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:51 am 
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you dont need to take your manifold apart. you can get it off in one piece.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:44 pm 
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im keen to help hehe could do a head gasket change day :P
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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:10 pm 
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Lol, I'll post up a start date and just see who wants to help when it gets underway.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 5:50 pm 
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timing chain cover, ive read alot saying it need to come off. its common sense you need the tensioner loosened.
With the radiator, is it a specialist job to get it flushed?
i took it off in 2 peices to get the fuel rail off with out damaging things.
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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 5:55 pm 
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you do NOT need to remove the timing chain cover...
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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:19 pm 
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Tell me when... I might fly up to watch, camera in hand. It could be a F**k interesting event. :lol:
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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:23 pm 
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stop lying adrian!

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:27 pm 
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moody wrote:
NUMBER 1 is to make sure you either have a 10mm ratchet spanner or a 1/4" drive socket with a 10mm. It makes removeing the bbm so much easier.
I borrowed a mates 'custom' 10mm spanner to remove my BBM - it's been heated with an oxy to bend a dogleg near the 10mm ring end - cut off the other end and welded a HT bolt to it.
He runs an automotive centre, and uses it a lot on falcons when doing the inlet manifolds.
I found it perfect, can get to all inlet manifold bolts from the top - absolute cinch.

 

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