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Adjusting the idle speed 

 

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 Post subject: Adjusting the idle speed
Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:59 am 
Getting Side Ways
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How do I change the base idle speed of my EL? It idles at 550rpm and it's a little bit rough. It idles much smoother at 650-700rpm.
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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:50 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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on my ed, all you had to do was disconnect the isc(or tps wateva u wanna call it), start the car adjust base idle so its decent. stop car. reset ecu by disconnecting battery and draining all power( put foot on breake pedal) reconnect isc(or tps) then reconnect battery and restart car. thats how the gregories manual says to do it. hope this works for your car

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:54 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Sounds about right.. Was the same on my EA. I'll do it this evening. Cheers.
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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:04 pm 
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All I did was turn the small screw at the back of the ISC an 1/8 or at max a 1/4 turn. No disconnecting of anything needed.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:33 pm 
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EF_Machine wrote:
All I did was turn the small screw at the back of the ISC an 1/8 or at max a 1/4 turn. No disconnecting of anything needed.


Thats how my mate did it on his el. Alot easier than disonnecting things.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:33 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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EF_Machine wrote:
All I did was turn the small screw at the back of the ISC an 1/8 or at max a 1/4 turn. No disconnecting of anything needed.
true but the computer will re adjust and the idle will eventually go crap again, doing it properly will stop this from happening

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 10:55 am 
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Try cleaning the throttle body and ISC. Disconnect the battery overnight if possible and do an idle relearn. The easiest way to do this (and I know it aint the way the manual says) is to let it idle in drive for 10 - 15 mins immediately after you reconnect the battery. Give it a go.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:43 pm 
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smally351 wrote:
Try cleaning the throttle body and ISC. Disconnect the battery overnight if possible and do an idle relearn. The easiest way to do this (and I know it aint the way the manual says) is to let it idle in drive for 10 - 15 mins immediately after you reconnect the battery. Give it a go.

AGAIN WITH THE QUICK AND DIRTY FIXES THAT don't WORK PROPERLY get some smarts and do it the RIGHT WAY :roll: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 6:35 pm 
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And you know this doesn't work properly because .........???

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:24 pm 
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Listen to the man - he knows what hes talkin about. This works a treat.....so no more frickin cheating.


http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... idle+gtbob

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:58 pm 
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Anyone can copy stuff out of a workshop manual. I am speaking from experience, and I know it works.

I don't see how the PCM has to "relearn the closed and wide open throttle positions". The TPS has a pre - determined voltage for both positions. It would only be the 'adaptive strategy' info that is lost, affecting the fuel and ignition maps.

Try it before you shoot me down in flames.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:10 am 
Parts Gopher
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smally351 wrote:
Anyone can copy stuff out of a workshop manual. I am speaking from experience, and I know it works. .


Second that.

Taking the throttle body/ ISC off and giving it a clean DOES work. Give it a clean with turps and spray some degreaser into the throttle body works very well.

Whats so dirty and cheap about doing something that works?

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:16 am 
Getting Side Ways
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smally351 wrote:
Anyone can copy stuff out of a workshop manual. I am speaking from experience, and I know it works.

I don't see how the PCM has to "relearn the closed and wide open throttle positions". The TPS has a pre - determined voltage for both positions. It would only be the 'adaptive strategy' info that is lost, affecting the fuel and ignition maps.

Try it before you shoot me down in flames.

Not trying to shoot you down but after over 40 years hands on as a mechanic working on fords, mercedes.and continental cars (which have had electronics since aussie cars still had carburettors only) and specialising in fuel injection and race AND road tuning I have the experience to know and understand the problems with quick fixes that USUALLY only cover up a bigger problem.
That said I'm all for a better way to fix GREMLINS in computer controlled vehicles. :roll: :P :P :P

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:21 am 
Getting Side Ways
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EF_Machine wrote:
smally351 wrote:
Anyone can copy stuff out of a workshop manual. I am speaking from experience, and I know it works. .


Second that.

Taking the throttle body/ ISC off and giving it a clean DOES work. Give it a clean with turps and spray some degreaser into the throttle body works very well.

Whats so dirty and cheap about doing something that works?

AS for cleaning throttle bodies with turps (which leaves a residue to pick up MORE varnish and crap) a better solution is either white spirit or ELECTRACLEAN which TOTALLY evaporate and leave NO residue. :roll:

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:51 am 
Oompa Loompa
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smally351 wrote:
Anyone can copy stuff out of a workshop manual. I am speaking from experience, and I know it works.

I don't see how the PCM has to "relearn the closed and wide open throttle positions". The TPS has a pre - determined voltage for both positions. It would only be the 'adaptive strategy' info that is lost, affecting the fuel and ignition maps.

Try it before you shoot me down in flames.


dude, i aint flamin no one. as for what i posted before,notice i said on my ed not el/ef as ive had no experience with ef/els i was just posting incase it might be the same for the el/ef as they are basically same design just diff throttle body/intake, i have tried doing it ur way on the ed's but it kept coming back, then i did it properly and it never came back. it may be a different story for ef/els but i know from experience that it dont work properly on ed's. i now have an au and am still learning its differences

 

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