ive bought a ford high performance cam for my AU engine (ford part number ELHT6250A) and have a qustion or 2, blokes have been wacking xr6 cams in their engines and havnt had to change valve springs ( a techo at ford said the standard AU springs are pretty much the same), so am now wondering if i have to change mine as the cam is a step up from an xr6 one, i dont have to worry about the ECU or anything as the engine is in a speedway car over here in NZ and runs an XE-XF dizzy and an XF Weber ( we dont run computers and arnt allowed injection, stupid rule but there you go), we set them up to run at between 22-28 degrees advanced at 3000 rpm, seems to get the best performance out of them and pulls about 5800 at the end of the straits, power is transmitted thru a shortened HQ box and a mazda b1600 diff, if anyone has any idea or has done this cam replacement any info would be great, thanks in advance

I did an xr6 cam into an AU motor last week. What do you need to know?

if i can just remove the old cam and put the new one in without having to do the springs as well (the guys at ford australia reckon you dont have to but just asking other opinions), is there any tricks or tips to doing the cam and can i do it by holding the top sprocket up with pressure so as to not slip a tooth, also what is the rokers torqued down to???

You won't need new springs, the lift is identical and the duration is longer so it should be fine.

The way I did mine was as follows.
Remove rocker cover.
Align motor to TDC on no.1
Confirm cam timing is correct. Small dot on cam gear should be just above head on RHS.
Tie the chain to the cam gear in two spots with good strong cable ties.
Loosen the cam gear retaining bolt.
Place rags in the drain holes and timechain area to stop stuff from falling into the sump.
Remove rocker gear.
If you have an engine host the tie it to the timing gear to take up the strain otherwise a freind may be able to hold it up. I used a crow bar across the engine bay and tied it to that.
Remove the timing gear bolt and slid the gear of the end of the cam and quickly swap over the cams and resecure the bolt.
Reinstall the rockers and torque them down to 25nm in the proper sequence. If you loose tension on the gaer then you will need to remove the tensioner and reset it after the gear is back on.
Tighten the cam gear.
Recheck cam timing and remove the cable ties.
Reinstall the rocker.

thanks for that, pretty straight forward then, just had a panic about the valve springs is all ( bit of an afterthought ), yea i'm not wanting to take that slack off the timing gear as the engines are sealed ( a 2mm hole drilled up through the sump flange through the timing cover on both sides to pass an I.D number through), if i break the seals then its more money to spend as the head has to come off to get resealed