there is a place in brisbane... not fully recond but relaced any broken bits in an auto/T5 its 285 exchange... yep you read right $285 bucks.


the wade cam you listed i have seen many use and they work great. im getting onbe very simlar only mine is a custom made one through wade

for the bottom end i wouldnt bother upgrading anything unless you want to turbo at high boost. but id recomend some ACL racing series chrome molley rings and bearings for added strength

Cam's - Get a nice wade or RPD one like you have planned.

Headwork - Depending how far you want to go depends on what you do. You can go get a nice ported one from JMM but ur up for big dollars. You could grab your head and have it mildly ported and that will be all cool. Replace the valves and seals. This is a good time to upgrade your valve springs. Crow have some nice springs and there are RPD ones around IIRC.

Compression - I was told by the guys at RPD that shaving the head isnt a good idea. Sure you get better compression but hey, what about if the gaskit needs redoing and they cant face and pressure test it cause its already had the most you can taken off. So there goes all the dollars you spent on headwork. I always thought that its not about high compression, but having even compression in all cylinders.

Bottom end - Well it depends what you want to do. If you plan on having a 150rwkw NA and later change ur cam and bolt a turbo on it for 200rwkw then this is the time to do stuff.
Keeping it NA i wouldnt bother with race pistons or anything like that. Just put some new rings in it and all new bottom end bearings. Just clean the pstions up. Hoan the cylinders. Hoaning is a easy job and makes things all good.
Otherwise if you want turbo then go get a ACL race series rebuild. I read that they are very good.

As for your trans. The T5's are good but they cant handle as much power as an auto. You can go and put a manual in with a HD clutch. Or you can get the good ole BTR 93LE. They are a good trans. Just throw the AU S5 solenoid in and there are a few clearances that can be machined down to make things a bit smoother. Chuck a high stally in it, maybe a 2800RPM.

Also look into a nice diff. I can get ahold of a 3.9 LSD from a EB but it originally came out of a EF, so its got the ABS sensors. If you want this diff then we can talk about it later on MSN. It would cost about $600