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| eb xr6 falcon |
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Hi ive just done a head gasket on my eb falcon changed it with a au head gasket i thought i done everything right took the head to get shaved flat brand new head bolts and cleaned the living s#it out of the block sanded it with 1200 wet dry paper. Thiners then wax and grease remover till i could see myself in the block prity much put the gasket on and done the head bolts up in the correct sequnce and torque seen on here somone told to do it 40 80 110nm thought all was good till 2 days after i took off the rocker cover and found coolant seeping into the oil passages not much but enough to see it on the head gasket in the oil passages should i torque them down abit more or? Just wanted to hear what all you gurus think fu*k i am p****d
 but might have to bite the bullet and do it again. thanks for any replys much appreciated 
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| gogetta |
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dont really understand what your saying...you have water in the oil?.....you could have a cracked head?
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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sorry mate what im saying is with the rocker cover off looking down at the oil passages theres abit of coolant from the water ports on the head gasket hard to put into writing words.
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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Head aint cracked just came back from the shop got it checked
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| Shortshift |
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I quizzed an engine reconditioner about the AU metal gaskets and was advised that both the block & head need to be dead flat (ie. decked & planed). He said some people use air grinders or sanders to remove the head gasket remains, which results in an uneven surface on the block. A non-metal gasket will have a much shorter lifespan, but it will compensate for minor variations (a few thou) in the head to block assembly.
Did you check the surface of the block with a straight edge when the head was off, by any chance? From the posts I've read on Fordmods, nobody seems to have problems with them.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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No i did not check the deck just cleaned the crap out of it and asumed were can i get a desant strait edge from?
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| frankieh |
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That's an odd result.. I didn't even deck my head.. just hand cleaned everything and put the mls gasket in... I did however spray the gasket with Hydromar spray.. I checked it for flatness with a laser thingy and it seemed pretty good so didn't worry about decking.
Been driving it for 3 months now and not a problem... I wasn't actually planning to keep the engine so I just wanted to get it running to get it over the pits and driving for a while while I finish on my other motor.. but not had an issue yet.... |
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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Should i give it a go with that spray?
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| frankieh |
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I think so... It was recommended to me by a fellow from this list.. he swears by it and I have to say I've been pretty impressed too.
but if I was you.. I'd put a stop leak formula in the radiator first.. seems a shame to waste an mls gasket and bolts for a non combustion pressure related and very slow leak... There is some stop leak stuff that looks like billions of tiny copper balls floating in light blue fluid.. get a bottle of that and follow the directions... you might be surprised.... Last edited by frankieh on Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Shortshift |
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frankieh wrote: but if I was you.. I'd put a stop leak formula in the radiator first.. seems a shame to waste an mls gasket and bolts for a non combustion pressure related and very slow leak As a solution to the immediate problem, I agree with frankieh. I'm not sure how this stuff affects the radiator core or whether you need to keep putting the stuff in each time the coolant's changed. If you need to take the head off again, try to borrow a 1m steel straight edge. I think you can buy these from art/craft shops, or places like All Tools. Failing that, try a thick piece of (new) aluminium flat. You would expect each block to be dead flat, but then who knows what's been done to their engine before they bought the car? I recall seeing a tolerance mentioned in the workshop/repair manuals.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| frankieh |
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The swtuff I suggested won't hurt the radiator core unless it's mostly clogged with stuff already...
been using it for a whole and no you don't have to do it each time.. just do it once, then flush the system and then put coolant in. |
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| green car |
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Pretty sure those head bolts are torque to yield, not just a straight up 3 torque sequence. that may be the problem.
_________________ 165 Killer Wasps all packaged in a green kmart car, almost an explorer in a way... |
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| frankieh |
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oh.... good catch, I didn't see that..
yes, if you torqued them only.. you didn't do it right.. they are TTY blots and need to be turned a certain number of degrees past the base tension.. I actually did a search on google images for a protractor and printed it out... marked the angle of the bolts at base tension and added the angle suggested by the bolts instructions. worked great for me. Here is an image from when I did mine.. been meaning to make a how-to as I took about 60 photos and a couple of videos and did it all with the motor in the car. 
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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i dont know i dont like putting that kind of s#it through my cooling system. But im pritty possitive i done the bolts up correctly. thanks 4 the help
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| green car |
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If you tightened them like you said you did it wrong and that is your problem, there is no ifs or buts. good luck with that.
_________________ 165 Killer Wasps all packaged in a green kmart car, almost an explorer in a way... |
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