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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey is this cam marker in the right spot? I suspect I've jumped a tooth when I was putting the head back together and I'm not sure what the cam marker's meant to align with exactly.. but the motor's at tdc. Would explain why the cars been missing and running rich ever since
Last edited by ILLaViTaR on Mon Nov 26, 2012 6:03 am, edited 2 times in total. |
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| TROYMAN |
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pics not working...
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| ILLaViTaR |
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TROYMAN wrote: pics not working... ooops! Should be working now 
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| ILLaViTaR |
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| cjh |
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It looks about right....it should be about 3mm to 5mm above the cyl head to rocker cover gasket surface....at TDC on the harmonic balancer.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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cjh wrote: It looks about right....it should be about 3mm to 5mm above the cyl head to rocker cover gasket surface....at TDC on the harmonic balancer. ahh awesome, it sits 3mm above the head exactly. But I found the MAP sensor hose had a tiny split near the manifold.. and the (new) dizzy shaft also had some play. Still get code 22 though with the hose repaired (as well as 21,41,52 and sometimes 73). So I guess a new temp sender and map sensor itself are needed.. Sounds simple for once right? Nah that wouldn't be my EB... had it running almost perfect after fixing the hose and the dizzy and you wouldn't believe it.... today the car starts missing and stalling (badly like it's flooding or something), seems like an entirely new problem.. seems to get worse the longer it runs/heats up.... gradually gets worse over a few minutes and stalls. Maybe it's just the map playing up since i fixed the leak, who knows lol, it's still spitting out the same codes.. I'll see how I go! |
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| cjh |
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Might need to do a fuel pressure & flow test ????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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hmmm yeah i better go buy a gauge i think! I can't even get the lpg running at the moment.
The timing is doing my head in, I set it correctly for petrol and it runs like a pig. I have to advance it like 15-20 degrees to get a smooth idle on petrol and even more on lpg.. Also tried another engine running test today and code 21/ect, 22/map and 41/oxy have gone (yay!) but I'm getting code 72/73, (MAP and TPS have no dynamic range or something). These weren't there until I repaired that hose and cleaned the o2 sensor yesterday. Also found running the car with the o2 sensor disconnected makes it run slightly better.. or at the very least no worse... The missing/stalling is kind've like a surge/splutter and I can hear the exhaust spitting when it happens, does it all through the rev range too, completely random but gets worse the longer the car runs, stalls after a few minutes. It didn't do it at all at one point, it seems kind've intermittent. Maybe it's all the black soot crap clearing out the motor? Just a wild guess haha |
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| SWC |
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Your O2 Sensor is probably stuffed, get a new one.
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| ILLaViTaR |
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ok so I got a new one as it looked stuffed anyway and it's still doing it!!
I got it going on lpg again (had to disconnect fuel pump) and the problem is there too so it's not fuel related. It's just missing in a way like it's suddenly cutting out (it's runs smooth and sounds in tune) it'll miss mildly/aggressively and eventually stall, seems to get worse the lnoger it runs/idles. I also noticed coughing/mini backfiring from the exhaust every single time it misses... pretty sure it's a whole new problem and I've replaced the cat so it's not that! Maybe a could a coil cause this? or a tps maybe because I've got 2 codes for a faulty tps that I was not getting before this problem started happening! This car is screwed lol. |
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| SWC |
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Did you Zip Tie the chain to the timing gear and hold the gear up under some form of tension while you had the head off. You may have slipped a tooth on the AUX Gear. What is the Car Model?
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| ILLaViTaR |
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SWC wrote: Did you Zip Tie the chain to the timing gear and hold the gear up under some form of tension while you had the head off. You may have slipped a tooth on the AUX Gear. What is the Car Model? crap... I think you're right! I forgot all about the aux gear. oh and it's an eb2. When doing the head back up I did zip tie the sprocket but it skipped a tooth (on the crank) when I reattached the cam as the stupid screwdriver holding the sprocket gave way. The tensioner side of the chain was loose and the inlet side was extremely tight so I turned it the other way and sure enough it skipped back, thought I'd dodged a bullet.. Is this an engine out job then? I guess I'll have to take the cover off to see the gear.. Punching myself right now!!! Stupid screwdriver took 95% of the force then decided it'd give way right at the end. Really really should've used something a bit more solid! |
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| SWC |
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1) Pull the plug on No1 Cylinder and bring the engine to TDC.
2) Check the Timing mark and see it this matches. This is to ensure that your Harmonic Balancer hasn't slipped. If it does, go to 3, if it doesn't then you have a stuffed Harmonic Balancer and will need to replace it. 3) Pop you rocker cover and check your Cam Gear Mark is in the correct position, then check to see that both intake and exhaust valves are fully off lift on the cam. If this is OK then you haven't slipped a tooth on the Crank Pully go to 4. If it has slipped a tooth then the best would be to pull the engine, strip the timing case, sump off, and re do the timing chain. 4) Pop you dizzy cap and check that the Rotor button aligns with a mark on the side of the dizzy. The rotor button should point to No1 plug on the cap. If this is OK then all is good. If not then you have slipped a tooth on the Aux Gear. You can fix this by pulling the Dizzy and moving it a tooth on the drive when you put it back in. You may have enough adjustment without having to do that but I doubt it. 5)Then check with a timing light. |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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cheers man, I checked it and everything all lines up correctly. I've been aligning the finish mark on the cap to the ign marker on the balancer and not the tdc mark.. but doesn't seem to matter as whenever I start the car (timing correct/10 degrees btdc) it barely idles, as in 100rpm barely and sounds horribly out.
I have to advance the dizzy by ear like 30 degrees to get any form of half decent idle (700-800rpm) using most the space the dizzy has to move, the tfi almost hits the tb. It's as though the ignition/ecu timing is out somehow...or advancing the timing a s**t compensates for another problem.. I've got a timing light coming in the post should be here by next week! The balancer hasn't spun as it was fine when I had the head off (I could physically see no1 piston at tdc), and I still had to run it at 30-40 degrees then too. So basically it makes no sense lol, maybe my aux shaft has done a 180 somehow before I even touched the head? lol i don't know. |
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| ranga83 |
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did you get the head checked when you had it off? head bolts done up to spec?
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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