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Changed light relay holder now starter motor won't start !!! 

 

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 Post subject: Changed light relay holder now starter motor won't start !!!
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:29 pm 
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ED XR6
I have had battery out of car and re wired low beam relay holder and all lights work!!!
But I can't get starter to work off key...
I have hot wired starter and engine will start .I have double checked everything, even internal lights and fuse etc...
The engine did start off jumper wire to starter solinoid terminal...
It WON'T start off key???? All was fine before ????
Any one know what the fix is and what relay opperates the starter???
Thanks....

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:05 pm 
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The starter relay is the next one behind the low beam relay (in that bank of 5 relays). So from front to rear: horn, high beam, low beam, starter, air con.
Swap one of the other relays to test the relay, otherwise test for a wiring issue, apply 12v to the red wire to operate the solenoid, test for 12v from IGN s/w to the relay holder, etc - if its an auto, make sure the inhibitor switch is earthing ok. (EDIT: if you've externally hot wired successfully, then the inhibitor switch if fitted will be ok)

I'd suspect if you were working on the adjacent relay position, you've disturbed the wiring in some way.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 4:21 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
The starter relay is the next one behind the low beam relay (in that bank of 5 relays). So from front to rear: horn, high beam, low beam, starter, air con.

What car are you talking about? Because it isnt ED.

In ED there is four relays along the front guard, the one closest to the firewall is the starter.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:47 am 
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You haven't used the horn relay in another socket have you? Its the yellow one, and for some reason, Ford wired the pins differently if you look at the diagram on the side of it. If swapped, it won't work in any other cradle from memory, although it WILL physically fit.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:56 am 
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Actually, I should note that this applied to my EF - can't remember if EA-EB is the same.

Pull your Starter relay out of the cradle, and check the cradle is supplying a negative AND a positive.

Positive should be coming from the BEM, and negative from the inhibitor switch. If both are present, check the following.

You said you have hotwired the starter - have you done this by applying positive to the spade terminal on the relay block, or just the starter itself?

Also, check you are getting a constant positive from at least one of the relay pins on the bank while the ignition is OFF. This is the positive supply that is made available to the relay for starting.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Starter itself .. So yes I'll have to check inhibitor switch.....

 

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As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 11:33 pm 
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Sturmovik wrote:
What car are you talking about? Because it isnt ED.
In ED there is four relays along the front guard, the one closest to the firewall is the starter.
Correct, I'd looked at the XG supplement instead of the main EBII/ED manual chapter, so delete the air con (or WAC) relay from what i've said. Apologies for any confusion.

Just to expand from the above mentioned.
Your relay should have the terminals numbered - equate these to the holder:
85 & 86 relay coil:12v from smartlock & earth to inhibitor switch (orange/black wire), check for continuity to the battery -ve when auto select is in 'P' or 'N'. Other terminal check 12v is present when IGN switch is rotated to start.
30 & 87: one should have constant 12v, other goes to the solenoid (red wire) bridge these two and see if solenoid engages and starter motors over.
Test relay by substitution with another, or test original relay - IIRC there is an inbuilt diode across the relay coil, so be careful when applying 12v to it, as incorrect polarity may cause a short, normally these relays have a white casing from memory.

 

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97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

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Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:05 am 
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Two stuffed relays!!! The relay I was using to "test" was stuffed also!!!! Sheesh!!!
Why do these things happen when working on something else nearby??? Just to confuse things and anciety that you have STUUFFED up what repaires you have just done...
Just installed new radio as a member of family just cut and pulled everthing out...What a job!!!

 

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As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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