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Changing Oil Pressure Sender on EL ...help please! 

 

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 Post subject: Changing Oil Pressure Sender on EL ...help please!
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:27 pm 
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Hey guys,

Was having Oil Pressure fluctuations (up & down, also sometimes goes right up into the Red when idling) when I first bought the EL.

Changed to a Fairmont cluster (and hence a new gauge) but it's still happening ...so now I've bought a new Oil Pressure Sender to try instead.

Where do I find the Oil Pressure Sender? ...couldn't find anything in my s**t Haynes manual

Any pics would be helpful, too!

Anyone else here changed theirs successfully?

Cheers! :wink:

 

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 Post subject: Re: Changing Oil Pressure Sender on EL ...help please!
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:53 pm 
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markr154 wrote:
Where do I find the Oil Pressure Sender?


Its Under the inlet manifold, about 3 inches behind dizzy and just in front of coil. Had to change mine for the mid series cluster install (mine was originally gli low series) and it was quite difficult. :twisted: I somehow managed underneath the car, but yeah, prob the most difficult thing to change :evil:

Have fun :)
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:57 pm 
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I change it from underneath the car, coming up past the oil filter.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:01 pm 
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Thanks guys ...am I gonna get covered in oil ...or should I do it as part of an Oil change?

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:34 pm 
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you wont get oil on ya, be easier to get it off if you take the filter out though.

i have the same problems with my oil pressure as have others im under the impression thats its not a faulty sensor, a lot of people have said its more likely a bad ground but im still not convinced.

anyways when you fit ure new one let us know how it goes
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:37 pm 
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Rapier wrote:
you wont get oil on ya, be easier to get it off if you take the filter out though.

i have the same problems with my oil pressure as have others im under the impression thats its not a faulty sensor, a lot of people have said its more likely a bad ground but im still not convinced.

anyways when you fit ure new one let us know how it goes


yeah what he said definatley do it with the filter out makes it so much easier
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:55 pm 
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markr154 wrote:
Thanks guys ...am I gonna get covered in oil ...or should I do it as part of an Oil change?


it's way above the sump so nothing more than a drop or two of oil should come out.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:04 pm 
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Could it be easier to just take off my BBM to get to it?

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:06 pm 
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markr154 wrote:
Could it be easier to just take off my BBM to get to it?


have you removed a BBM before?
Personally I don't think there easy to remove at all, so I'd say f**k no it's not. It'd be quicker to just go from underneath and do it.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:13 pm 
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twr7cx wrote:
markr154 wrote:
Could it be easier to just take off my BBM to get to it?


have you removed a BBM before?
Personally I don't think there easy to remove at all, so I'd say f**k no it's not. It'd be quicker to just go from underneath and do it.


Nope I haven't ...but as you say, that doesn't look easy either!

Will have a crack at it tomorrow in daylight :wink:

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:32 pm 
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just take the airbox out, might as well clean everything too yeh?

takes 30 seconds to take the oil sender out I use a 1,1/16th deep inpact socket and a wobble extension.

and do it while its cold!

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:44 pm 
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Krytox wrote:
just take the airbox out, might as well clean everything too yeh?

takes 30 seconds to take the oil sender out I use a 1,1/16th deep inpact socket and a wobble extension.

and do it while its cold!


Hey, that could be easier ...thanks mate!

Yeah ...will clean the filter etc while it's out. :wink:

I take it you've changed your sender before ...do you think it may solve my pressure gauge fluctuations?

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:08 pm 
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It should, unless theres a guage issue and or wiring.

I'd 90% sure it'll the sender as they're common to fail.

Be sure to mildly 'crimp the connector also, as was stated b4 bad earths can give false readings.

I've had many'o clusters in my car, and I've changed the senders also.
you'll never get a perfect combination, the dials are s**t and so are the senders!
I've recently been on a good run with the guage as it stays just over 3/4's all the time except on the fwy in 4th for a period of miles, it goes higher and doesn't drop until about 5 minutes of city driving.

If your concerned about oil you can either add a mechanical guage to get a more true reading or add another oil 'switch' or so called idiot light.

I've removed many senders hence why I have a deep 1+1/16th socket.
however it comes in handy when unbolting diff pinions.

g'luck.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:58 am 
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good luck mark :)

alot of the time the flucuations are caused byt a bad earth. common in the AU's

fixed by adding another earth lead from the _ve terminal of the battery to the engine block in my case it was to the p/s pump

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:42 am 
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But the sensor earths onto the block, so teh bad earth would be the earth strap to the block then...???
I would of thought it'd be more likely that the signal wire fails.

 

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