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Coil Pack - 95 EF - Replacement questions 

 

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 Post subject: Coil Pack - 95 EF - Replacement questions
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:15 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Hey guys,

I'm fairly new here but have already found a wealth of knowledge.

I need to replace my coil pack, I just want to know if it's a simple bolt off and on process, or if I'm going to need to do any tuning etc?

Any help will be appreciated

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:17 am 
Getting Side Ways
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No tuning, plug and play, just a prick to get to.
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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:23 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Awesome, thanks mate

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:44 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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i got to my cousins one by removing the airbox, unbolting it by using long extensions and passing through the bbm inlets.
took all of 30 mins with breaks for some refreshments.

remmeber to disconnect the neagtive terminal of battery.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:28 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Hmm ok i'll try that, I had a look and figured I'd need an extension. Good advice on the Batt too... I've shocked myself before on my last car (sh*theap) wasn't an enjoyable experience I can tell you!

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:33 pm 
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yeh' i do em with a couple of extensions and the 8mm bit. I also jack nearside up and remove the wheel (then place it under the body with timber, safety first)

then use a 8mm spanner to get the back bolt off and presto... only takes as above ..30mins

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:35 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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as above although i didn't jack up car. def airbox out though and extensions.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:44 pm 
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I guess I always go from underneath is cos my arms aren't err small enuff
and well i seem to work on cars when they're hot.. and the f$#k'n heater pipe gets DAMN hot!

also

I always check pipes, joints and all bolts locally when i change something nearby.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:43 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Haha, it's always the case when you want to work on something. You need (or want) to work on it just after a drive so everything is at operating temperature... Hey presto an easy way to burn the arms and fingers, flinch from the pain and nick or cut your self on something local causing you to drop your tool or bolt and it get lost in the abyss somewhere, following many rampant curses and death wishes on the car!

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:52 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Well while I'm here actually getting reponses (thanks guys) the problem with my car is that there is an intermittent idle problem, lack of power and the revvs hold at around 3-4k before slamming down gears. I know I need a new s5 solenoid in the trans, which shall be done soon. A mech reckons I need a coil pack and that will fix the rest of my probs. I've already done fuel flow tests and put reco injectors on it. Had an EFi tune and new leads and plugs (bought the car second hand gotta give it some love).

Does anyone think I will need to test anything else, or should the coil pack (and trans stitch up) fix my woes of a gutless weak engine... god I wish I had my V8 back....

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:56 am 
Oompa Loompa
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The reason I ask all this, the mech reckons he should chuck it on the dyno and check all the different thing's out on the car. DO I trust him and pay aruond 300 for a coil and dyno test etc, or buy the coil do it myself and go from there. I'm new to Fords all this electronics have me a little scared. I have come form the other team (holden) and found this ford to be really nice, just sick of paying mechs to do parts diagnonsis and charge through the nose for labour when I can do it myself!

Thanks again for all your help guys!

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:56 am 
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blocked cat convertor?

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 9:37 am 
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lack of power can be coil pack, if you loose one coil out of the three you drop 2 cylinders.

is it hard to start?

test the resistance between PWR, pin closest to windscreen, and each of the other three pins.
the resistance should be less than 1ohm.
if it isn't replace the coil pack.

with your car hanging at 3-4k rpm before shifting, this is you giving it some gas and the tranny refusing to shift and then jumps into gear.
not car holding revs by it self?

checked your tranny fluid level?
if it's low this is one problem it causes.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:13 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Thanks for that, i'll test it tonight.

With the rev's, I put the foot down and it's a bit gutless, sometimes misses a little on take off till it gets going a little (when its cold, not so much when its hot) and when the rev's get around 3-4 it seems to be struggling to change, then when the road speed gets up it changes...

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:15 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Fluid level is fine, but it is a little off colour, havent had time to service it yet. Will try and do it all this weekend, hope it makes a diff!

 

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