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Doing the EEC V diagnostics 

 

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 Post subject: Doing the EEC V diagnostics
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 5:56 pm 
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Should I erase the memory codes first incase some are old (as I havn't ever done these diagnostic thing and I've owned the car three years).
And since I'm trying to look for a problem with the petrol system, should I do the diagnostic with the engine on or off?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 6:49 pm 
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i'd write them down first, then erase them. The ecu is supposed to erase the codes automatically after so many ignition cycles if the fault doesn't reappear. Start from scratch and see what codes pop up first.

What kind of problems are you having?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:12 pm 
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EBGizmo wrote:
What kind of problems are you having?



http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22401

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:18 pm 
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o and i take it the STI Input has to be connected to ground the entire time?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:24 pm 
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Needs to be grounded while you're doing the test, yes. Remove it WHILE codes are being flashed out to erase all of them.

 

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LSD High, 3.23, Black wheels, other shiny bits.

EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:33 pm 
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any ideas on how to keep them there? i don't see how i hold all the wires in place and write down codes aye...

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:47 pm 
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I have a very simple setup at the moment. The ground and STI pins are on the far left of the plug yes? I got a paper clip and bent it in a U shape, and I wedge it in between the pins. At each end of the U, it is bent in a circle, so the two ends actually slip over the pins so they can't slide onto other pins and short. I have an LED with resister to the STO and Positive for readout.

Just read the thread - very strange problem, but I must say It doesn't sound like fuel delivery. Sounds very electronic, rather than liquid - if you get me :)

Since its fine at first start up, try this: Find out what value the Coolant Temp sensor is supposed to be when the car is cold (30 degrees should do). Unplug your Cooland temp sensor plug, connect the resistor across its terminals so you are making the car think its cold. This should keep the ECU in open loop mode, and you might see some changes in that RPM behaviour. You could then start looking at sensors that are ignored while its in open loop.

Does anyone know how the rev limiter works with EECV? Does it cut out the coils completely? Sounds like it *could* be a faulty ECU. Need some fault codes to see where things are headed.

Just a suggestion of course :)

Hows the test going?

 

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LSD High, 3.23, Black wheels, other shiny bits.

EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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